I just got the dual sided smooth PEI plate.
One thing I noticed is that it says PLA/ABS/PETG, while the high temperature plate says PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU/PC.
In the description on the website for the dual sheet, it gives instructions for pretty much all the filament types, including TPU, PC and the nylons.
I wonder why they only put PLA/ABS/PETG on the sheet. It is the same as the textured PEI sheet, they only put PLA/ABS/PETG, but give instruction on the web page for all filaments.
Also, I think because the stickers are so thick, 0.03 for high temperature vs 0.125 for the dual smooth PEI, that the stickers will probably not be replaceable and you would just buy a new plate when it wears out.
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This wiki page talks about the different plates and the differences between the high temperature and smooth PEI plate.
In the comments, somebody asked if the smooth PEI sheets were replaceable, Bambu replied and said it is not. Not really a big deal, buying two high temperature replacement sheets only cost 10 dollars less. And the steel is thicker and the PEI Is thicker and more securely glued to the steel plate.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/plates
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I was curious if the smooth PEI plate would avoid the issue where you see a slight raised area under your previous print.
I did a test, but it was just with the max flow calibration test in Orca slicer. When I pulled off the print, I saw the raised area, but a few hours later, the raised area was gone.
After I print some other models, I will make an update on how it compares to the high temperature plate and if the raised area goes away for prints with a larger surface area touching the plate.
If you ever do figure it out, please do post what the answer is. Iāve had similar questions, but I never could get a solid answer. Now that Iāve switched to garolite from practically everything, itās almost a moot question, but Iād still like to know.
So it does look like the raised areas do go away on the dual smooth PEI. About 4 hours after removing a print it was almost gone.
If you stick the plate back in your printer and just set it to 100-120Ā° C for like a half hour it smooths the surface back out.
Regarding bubbling, I notice that the store description now gives advice very similar to the last two comments:
- If bubbles appear on the bottom of the sheet, heating it on the heatbed at a temperature of no less than 80 degrees for several hours can be helpful in eliminating the bubbles.
Bambu Smooth PEI Plate | Bambu Lab US
By the way: I no longer see a āhigh temperatureā build plate in the BBL store. From the looks of it, the smooth plate has taken over that function. Consequently, the engineering build plate is now gone too.
LOL. The way these build plates keep disappearing it reminds me of a certain Agatha Christie novel: And Then There Were None by Agatha Christie - Agatha Christie 
Lastly, the commentary in the store about the smooth build plate explains why the BBL glue is such a poor adhesive. They donāt mean it to be. For anything other than PLA, BBL advocates the use of a glue purely as a bond breaker, to avoid damaging the PEI.
Well, now, it finally all makes sense. 
Iād reckon the reason for the high temperature plate was 86ād is because it was an asymmetric lamination which led to warping of the plate when heated. If youāve ever applied laminate to shelving, you quickly learn that the even thin lamination has to be symmetric, i.e. on both sides. Otherwise a thin piece of melamine laminated to a 3/4" piece of plywood can totally warp and twist the plywood. Just imagine the forces required to do that! I still have some proof of that laying around from when I once hired an incompetent/negligent/stupid/lazy cabinet maker.
Hi guys, a quick question about the hairspray, do you clean it off after a while and how do you clean it. Hot water and soap or isopropyl?
Cheers
Mike
Go ahead and check the actual specifications for the materials used to coat our plates 
You will see that their use is not just limited to whatever temp they can tolerate before going too softā¦
Another thing to consider is their ability to bond to things like steel.
It is basically a powder coating process that is used here.
And that, for things like the textured PEI plates with aggregates to created this sandpaper look.
An the other hand most, if not all SMOOTH plates have the coating applied as a sticker.
A sheet is bonded to the steel one way or another and if the āglueā failsā¦
The high temp plates appeared quickly with the availability of filaments requiring rather high bed temps.
Sadly they seem to have been rushed with little consideration in regards to things like a COVERED area of the build able to get far hotter than other areas.
With usually just a single temp sensor for the plateā¦
You can still find build plates where one side is meant to be only for normal materials while the other is for high temp filaments - stay away from them is all can sayā¦
I mean, PEI is good for up to 300 degrees Celsius, so nothing we can throw at it should harm itā¦
Polyimide would be good for about 260 degrees and is available as sheets and more for god knows how long.
But no one seems to consider it for a proper coating of build platesā¦
HIGH temp plate but the highest recommended bed temp is 110 degrees Celsiusā¦
So the real culprit here is the temp at which the filaments hits the plateā¦
And of course whether or not it can BOND with the plate surface.
If it does we need a coating to prevent this.
And if the bed adhesion is not enough we need a coating to improve it.
So why again do we need those fancy plates to begin with ?
Hi,
since we are talking about PEI plates, I have been having problems with mine. I have been using the PEI build plate for 20 prints with no problem and suddenly started to notice that the first layer was off by 0.1-0.2mm. I did the auto calibrate option a few times and factory settings 2 times but nothing helped. I tried the other side of the PEI sheet and the first layer became normal. I tested it a few times and it seams that one side works and the other one doesnt. Just so we are clear I did clean the build plate multiple times and checked the nozzle, tried different materials and colors. The printer does its thing 5 min before the print and it levels the bed but for some reason one side of the PEI sheet doesnt work. I am 95% that its something to do with the PEI sheet but would really like to hear your opinion.
Hope you guys can help.
Happy printing!
May I ask how you cleaned your plate?
Of course.
I used IPA. the printer was used for maybe 20 prints and I didnt use any glue or adhesive.
It is not an adhesion problem but an z-offset problem.
It is visible in the pictures I took but I can poste them here, for some reason it wont let me. I sent a mail with the pictures directly to Bambu Lab to se what the think.
Dish soap and hot water is what I would suggest for cleaning your plate. Lots of threads here explaining why this works better than IPA but the basics of it is soap lifts the oils off while IPA will just spread them out unless you flush the plate with them.
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Some filaments are bad for the plate, some fingers are worseā¦
Meaning that in order to stick properly the plate needs to be cleaned properlyā¦
While IPA is great it is also rather limited.
For starters it does not really bind to any dirt or grime, it just tries to dissolve it or if thatās not possible tries to lift it off.
Soap, as in real soap and not dishwashing liquid or those fancy ones for the bathroom works differently.
The soap molecule on one end binds with water but on the other end binds with dirt, grime, grease and all.
Means that if you wipe the plate dry everything goes with the water into the cloth you used to dry it.
On the other hand IPA evaporates faster than you can wipe it off, often leaving a residue behind.
There is of course other solvents we could use, not just soap, water and IPA.
Like ethanol, methanol and yes, for some things even plain old vinegar and baking powder.
My glass build plates I still clean with a mix of ammonia, ethanol vinegar and water.
Made for use as the stuff like to form bonds if left alone for too long.
If you want to make sure you build plate is cleaned properly than take a video from one that is new or otherwise working perfectly.
Compare that video to the one of the plat misbehaving, or you own observations while checking.
Oh, right, what do you observe to checkā¦
Of course how water runs off the plate when you hold it under a running tap.
A slow and bubble free stream.
The plate should basically repel all the water so it runs off in quick streams without leaving wet areas behind.
On other plate materials it should form a uniform layer that runs off without leaving water behind.
On a misbehaving plate, especially if prints keep failing in the same spot you WILL see the water running off or behaving differently 
I had an old flash forge clone dual head printer. I put a borselite glas plate with a pei layer. I always applied ipa then used a very fine wet/dry sandpaper on a block to clean it after every print. I never had any adhesion problems. With my X1C I use the smooth pei double sided plate. I wipe it with a fair amount of ipa after every print and use the sandpaper after every few prints. I also move prints around to different areas of the bed and i have almost no adhesion problems. The one issue is very small surface area to bed. In those cases I use an outer skirt to add to the area. If I have a tall small surface area print i add 3mm x 8mm wings attached to my model at a point and these always print just fine. I also have a piece of granite counter top to put the plate on after printing, it quickly cools the plate for print removal with worry of bubbling on the plate(at least so far.)