Yup. If I don’t leave the door fully open, PLA suffers heat creep in the heat break most of the time. Not had any issue clearing the blockages so far.
Don’t leave the lid too as my AMS sits on it.
Would be nice to have some chamber thermostatic control.
Invested in some cleaning filament as I’m starting to use PC, ABS and ASA as well as PLA and PETG.
After putting on the E3D 0.6 nozzle, I did a new filament calibration for Bambu Matte PLA and printed a benchy. It took about 11 min 15 seconds for a 10% infill benchy with two walls, three top layers, and three bottom layers. No other modifications to the printer.
I don’t have this hotend but I used multi-channel ones in the past.
A blocked channel is about the worst that can happen to them, especially if it not the channel inside the nozzle itself.
My hotened back then was rather costly but as a piece of trash I had nothing to loose.
Thankfully it blocked with PLA and not some filled filament.
Took it fully apart, heatbreak, sensor, heater…
Then I used a blow torch, set it to have a soft flame and cooked the hotened with the nozzle still in it…
Didn’t take long for filament to drop out, then it started smoking.
A few minutes after the smoking stopped I let it cool down.
Was happy that moving around meant I did not overheat the material, no discolouration of the metal…
Was able to blow some air through it that got black dust and pieces out - after taking the nozzle off.
Last but not least was to place both in the ultrasonic cleaner filled with acetone, alcohol should work too…
Had to run about half a metre of clear PETG through to get the rest of the stuck ashes out but it performed flawless again…
Learned this the hard way 
I appreciate the validation on the exact issue I encountered. I am an admitted cold-pull addict. I feel that there is NO better way to keep a nozzle clean when swapping between a variety of PLA filaments - matte, silk, gloss, etc… I get the advantages of the CHT style nozzle, but the ease of maintenance afforded by easy cold-pulls has driven me back to the standard nozzle personally. That being said, I am NOT a print farm, and speed is less important than quality. I just want folks to know what they’re getting into when making the investment into a CHT-based system.
If you do have a nozzle or hotend that is impossible to clean by normal means then do try the cooking method.
Especially if you used PLA when it happened.
Unless it was PLA with a filler, like wood, glow or fibre there should be nothing left but ash.
I invested into a cheap desoldering station for this purpose.
The ‘tiny’ hot air gun they provide comes with temp and flow control - prefect for the use on something as huge as a hotend.
Melting pint for PLA is between 130 and 180 degrees celsius depending on the composition.
Our printing stuff is more on the high end here.
At around 230 degrees PLA starts to boil.
So heating the lot to around 400 for about 5 minutes makes sure whatever is inside will be either liquid or boiling.
A quick blow from the compressor then gets rid of almost anything.
Like this you avoid the hassles of open flames and overheating the metal.
If you want to clean your hotends or free blocked ones (with some time) then try to get your hands on some ETAC, otherwise known as Ethyl acetate.
It works as a solvent for PLA but it won’t dissolve burnt PLA or things within it that caused a block.
With a clean pull, hot or cold, you even use a suitable syringe to quickly flush through the hotend to remove any leftovers.
Otherwise remove the heater and sensor, clean the thermal grease off and soak it over night in a sealed jar or such…
Either way better and cheaper than throwing away blocked hotends you can free otherwise.
Well, I’m about 4 ½ months into using my E3D hotend.
I’ve ran a lot of PLA, a roll of PLA CF (love the results with this stuff) and some PETG, PC and TPU through it and have had no issues or seen any wear.
Cold pulls work and I have run cleaning filament through as well - no dirtier or worse than a normal hotend.
I am about to try some ASA and some glass fibre filament soon.
I’m still using a 0.4 nozzle and have only seen big speed gains on a few large models.
Overall, I am still pleased with it and still having great results. Am I getting the most out of it - no, a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle would benefit more and most of the items I’m printing dont allow the machine to acceletate or max out the speeds enough. Wear and tear results still open but looking good so far.
I have had the Obsidian .4mm on my P1S conversion for a while now, and noticed more stringing, more drippy bits all over, retraction needs tweaked, and several times it looks like I have burn marks on the prints. Swapping colors or filaments, the past filaments are still in nozzle and get mixed in, so need to increase purge amounts.
I had some things happen that haven’t on the stock hardened nozzle from Bambu.
Anyone have any tuning #'s? I wish Bambu would have released an official tune for different filaments for the different nozzles would be amazing.
I have no such issues with my hotend…
No stringing, no blocks, no major dripping either.
There is some things to note though:
Take PLA…
I print this usually at 350 to 400mm/s for the outer walls already.
And I do this at temps between 228 and 235 degrees Celsius…
BUT: If I have to use a slow print profile for a complex model full of overhangs I have to reduce the nozzle temp quite a bit.
Stringing and dripping is the result of the temps in the melting chamber being too high - means you have to lower the nozzle temp.
For example: The original Bambu hotend was happy with around 220 degrees for fast PLA prints.
At the same speed the E3D runs at just 205 to 208 degrees here.
I actually have LOWER flushing volumes with the Obxidian than I had with the original hotend.
Usually I set all to 70% and have no issues, for prints with many colour changes though I first waste a bit of filament to hone in on the least required amount.
If you used the E3d for a good while now and with lots of filament going through it might be worth to give it a decent clean.
Like soaking it over night (with all vitals taken off) in Acetone, MEK, PC, Heptane or such to then get the remaining goo and gunk out using an ultrasonic cleaner (liitle glass jar with the solvent inside and the hotened in it).
I believe this is some PETG in blue? or the PLA glow in the dark I was printing with the last few days, but when it comes out, it is well into the print, so the nozzle, even with purge is NOT purging old matetial, it is burning and coming out well after the purging of the nozzle.
NOT HAPPY AT ALL with this nozzle. I will be contacting E3D about this.
AND… if (You) haven’t experienced it, doesn’t mean those who are are lying or being dramaqueens. Lucky (You)…
this is unreasonable. I “get it” but don’t. I am about to put the old hardened .4mm nozzle back on. At least then I didn’t have burnt material coming out in prints.
I emailed E3D about this issue. I have just seen they have profiles on their page for the Obsidian, not sure how to load em up?.. I will update once they are back with me.
I have seen those black blobs on my old printer…
They should not happen, so probably it is not as much as a settings thing in your case but either bad filament or defects in the hotened.
A blob this larger and overcooked usually ONLY happens if it is unable to get out.
Like starting on an imperfection on the wall and once large enough the filament struggled to get past, eventually ripping most or all of it off.
In my case it was a hairline fracture in the hardened steel sleeve pushed into the melting chamber.
Assuming you have the hotend out now anyway…
If there is no defect you might have a problem of mixed plastics.
Take the temp sensor and heater off, then soak the thing in a closed jar in some PVC pipe primer.
It is enough to have just the lower part covered if you pulled the filament out of the heatbreak.
After a day or two whatever might be decomposing in there will be soft enough to be blown out in reverse.
As in using some rubber hose on the nozzle end and letting the compressor have some fun.
Soak again, then use some thin wire wrapped in cotton fibres to wipe through the inside - make sure to get it tight and to only turn in the same direction to not loose any fibres inside.
If you see a lot of remains on it repeat the soaking and if you have run it in an ultrasonic cleaner.
With that done take a bright flashlight and some dark cloth or such to get the nozzle end sealed on the flashlight.
You will then be able to look inside from the other end and the light will show you if there is any damages or permanently stuck things in there.
We have 5 P1Ss (2 are upgraded P1Ps) and about 3 months ago put the 0.4mm Obxidian into all of them, as well as Panda Jet ducts. Both have been great upgrades for us.
The Obxidian improves layer adhesion quite a bit (at stock speeds/settings). The consistency of the finish on our prints has also improved. Prints are ever so slightly more glossy/satiny overall (as opposed to matte/flat), and we no longer have prints that contain both matte portions as well as glossy portions due to speed changes around certain geometry as temperature/melt is more consistent across all speeds. There’s less filament buildup on the nozzle as well. I don’t think there’s been any downside at all for us (no stringing or anything).
The Panda Jet has improved overhangs and bridging, and it now matters less which way a print is oriented on the bed (the stock fan duct doesn’t do well in certain directions). There’s been no downside to this upgrade, either.
I’ve heard that Bambu has started using better fans for the toolhead covers so we might replace those as well next time we’re doing upgrades. The new fans have a brand name on them and supposedly pump out quite a bit more airflow.
I’m using the Obx .6 been about a week. Mostly using ABS-GF from Siraya Tech. Re-tuned filament. And interestingly results were very similar. Prints so far look good with no artifacts. My maximum volumetric flow is nearly double!
Nice idea, desoldering station
may i know what things you do to bet better quality from your P1S.
i’ve already placed order for Obxidian hotend.
you mentioned Panda Jet so checking them out too.
lately i’ve been seeing these darkmoon plates review,
ICE plates have you used them. any recommendation for less print fails and good quality prints.
I’m chasing quality not speed.
I use the default printer and filament profiles (except flow ratio and pressure advance which are basic things everyone should adjust).
I’ve only made minor changes to the quality profiles as I like to add an extra top layer and don’t like grid infill.
I’ve not tried any of those beds yet but I’m interested in the G10 options I’ve been seeing.
Hmmm… so after reading this thread I’ve learned that the E3D for Bambu hotend is the greatest thing since sliced bread but also the biggest POS ever produced. Got it. 
I have using the E3D 0.4mm Obxidian hotend almost exclusively for the last three months ever since I picked one up.
I worked great at first, speeds were generally 60-100% stock bambu hotend with the exception of the Bambu Matte PLA which strangely was only able to run at a bit faster than stock speeds (24mm/d vs 22mm/s - more on this later)
I did experience a clogged nozzle recently after printing in PC and than starting a new print PETG - i guess the stock bambu temperature setting for loading / unloading PC filament. Was a bit of work to get it unclogged but i was able to do so using the hex tool trick and several cold pulls.
Recently i started having issues printing with Bambu Matte PLA. I would randomly get under extrusions during my print which seems to point to partial clogs but as soon as it switch to another material / colour those printed fine.
What is strange is that it was printing fine all this time with the Matte PLA abeit at slower speeds compared to other materials. In fact, i even completed 3 plates of print using the same Matte PLA filament with any issues before i started seeing these extrusion issues. All filaments have been calibrated in ocra slicer.
I spent the whole weekend troubleshooting - swapping out PTFE tubes, doing cold pulls on the hotend, testing different AMS slots, cleaning the AMS hub, cleaning the extruder gears, increasing temperatures, decreasing temperatures, etc; and i was still getting the same under-extrusion issues with the Obxidian hotend. I tried it with different spools of the Bambu Lab Matte PLA and while not as bad, was still getting the occasional issues.
All arrows points to the Obxidian hotend not liking the Bamba Lab Matte PLA filaments - the initial speed tests seems to hint at that but i didn’t have any issues printing with it until now. and now i can’t seem to get it to work.
