Exact best temperature for specific filament?

Can I know the exact best temperature for a filament?
And if I change this temperature during printing, is the value retained until the end of the print?

The best temperature is filament but also brand specific.

Changing the temperature during printing is maybe possible when the machine allows it, but as soon as there is a filament change, you lose your manual change.

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You can do a temp tower. Theres a hack to get it to show up in the calibrations by adding a non h2d printer to the slicer. I havnt personally done the hack, but maybe somebody will chime in with more info. Personally, I just set it to the high point of the manufacturer suggested temps and adjust the profile after, if needed. With Bambu printers and new filament.

Youll notice that alot of filaments are rated for much lower speeds like 150mm/s. This is why I start at the high end of temps. To run at high speeds.

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Yes, you select a non bambu printer and in prepare tab, a “calibration” menu appears. Select temp tower in this menu and change the selected printer back to H2D and print.

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Begin with the suggested H2D slicer settings or the specifications provided by the filament brand. Then adjust based on your results or the specific requirements of your part design. Adjust in 5c increments, and if needed, fine tune in 1c steps.

Higher temperature can help with:
Poor layer adhesion
Brittle or weak
More glossy finish on some filaments

Lower temperature can help with:
Stringing
Nozzle oozing or buildup sometimes
Better performance on overhangs
Less glossy finish on some filaments

Print speeds and part size will also influence results. Additionally, cooling fan percentage can have an impact.

Cooling causes the outer layers to shrink before inner ones.

Chamber temperature can also have an effect.

This, along with the other recommendations above, should help you out.

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@ philch

Yes, you select a non bambu printer and in prepare tab, a “calibration” menu appears. Select temp tower in this menu and change the selected printer back to H2D and print.

Whaaat?? This works? Correctly? What about the other calibration options for non-std printers, they work too? This seems to easy to be true. FOlks in lots of threads struggling with this, this is the first mention I’ve seen. Hope it’s right