There are no problems using OrcaSlicer and Studio on the same system, and you can run them both at the same time. I do just that at times to see how they are different. Cloud or LAN-only makes no difference.
If you use the cloud, changes made to user filament and process presets in one slicer will be synced automatically in the other slicer. Settings that the slicers have in common will be shared and used.
Orca has had pressure advance settings stored in the filament profile for quite awhile, these are available to Studio but are ignored. Studio recently added some calibration routines, but the results are stored in the printer and apparently ignored by Orca. Studio’s calibration results are erased by firmware resets. Orca’s are stored in the cloud and can also be included in your usual computer backups.
Studio has poor calibration support for filaments from other filament manufacturers. Sunlu PETG and Inland PETG need slightly different settings, but I can only set one Generic K-value. I use different Orca profiles for each material, manufacturer, and color.
My preference is to use OrcaSlicer. It provides more control, with more calibration options, and I particularly like the Organic style tree supports. Recent Studio development seems to be aimed at supporting Makerworld, which I find to be a hot mess. I suppose Orca will eventually incorporate MW access, but I’m hoping it retains discrete profiles on the computer rather than in the printer.
Olias and Ikraus, thanks for the detailed info.
Right now I am setting up Orca and I need to know if I need to install the Bambu Network plugin. I assume so because Orca needs to talk to the X1C over LAN to get a print job started. It probably needs the LAN access code, IP address, MAC address etc. and I see them under Network on the printer, correct? I don’t recall setting up a password other than using my router PW during X1C setup. If I did, oops, I don’t recall immediately. Do I have to setup a PW for Orca?
Gosh I sound like atotal newbee. but I don’t want to make a mistake so that I have to start over.
Thanks for now.
Orca will ask to install the plugin, if it needs it, I know you need it for the cloud, and probably need it for LAN-only use. I never tried to refuse the request so I don’t really know…
Orca uses the same user name(email address) & password as Studio - that allows syncing presets through the cloud.
I’m assuming you’re on the Windows platform, it doesn’t matter if it’s Win10 or Win11.
It’s been a while since I first installed Orca but the end user experience as I recall was the same as Bambu. Orca utilizes the Bambu network library which for me frequently crashes. But thank God of autosave which is available in preferences.
The installation will prompt you if you’re missing the necessary libraries such as C++ or .NET. Outside of that, the only gotcha is during installation, you can’t have the other one running. It doesn’t matter which one because you’ll get the same error message. That error is when the setup software tries to establish a network connection and the firewall need to be asked mother-may-I. If there other software is already running, there will be a collision of priorities and it will issue an error message and won’t connect. Simply exit out of both programs and install whichever one you were trying to install and you’ll now get that Windows Firewall message asking for permission to allow the program access to the network.
Hello,
I don’t think your issue is a calibration issue (maybe other than temp or max flow rate). Grid infill is known to create that rattle and “bumpiness” you mentioned, as the nozzle will overlap over every intersection of infill. Try using Gyroid or Adaptive Cubic infill, those have worked the best for me.
Thanks. I will try the gyroid or adaptive cubic infill in new projects. I found out that I had the settings off from the ones suggested by the author. I used 15% sparse infikll instead of 5% and when I used 5% it was fine. Also I reduced the print speed for the Overure PLA to 12 mm/s, adjusted the max temp to 220 deg C and did a flow calibration. I saved the settings for that specific filament. After that I ran the project again and it came out well.
Hi, I installed Orca and it seems to run fine. I can detect the printer. The GUI looks so similar to Bambu Studio, almost identical. I was not aware of that. But I can’t find the temp calibration at first glance. Is it hidden in the submenus somehow?
Thanks.
Yes, it’s actually up in the title bar on the same line as the “File” Command. But note that there is another menu called “Calibration” that just opens up a lecture on Bambu Calibration instructions next to “project” which I found useless. If you’re clicking on that, you would be forgiven for thinking there was another menu beneath it.
Just click on the that is higher up. You must also be in the context menu, not preview or device context menus, otherwise the menu simply will not react to your click.
Thanks for the detailed info. I saw the Calibration up there but was in ‘Device’ tab and oc nothing happened.
You mentioned you do these calibrations all the time with a new filament spool. Does it vary much from batch to batch, brand to brand? If not are you willing to share your data? Upon specific request? On ‘non-critical’ projects it would save me some filament (5-6 m per test). I suppose it’s only a buck or two, but I rather use the filament on the real thing. The X1C poops a lot as it is lol.
Pleasant and creative printing.
Klaus
I wish there was a convenient way to share that data but I fear I haven’t been too disciplined on my record keeping. As of now, I only have the profiles that I created in Orca and Bambu Slicer which are a canonical mess right now. And I also have a pile of empty filament spools with certain data such as initial weight an empty TARE that I write onto the spool.
I did start a spreadsheet about a month ago and I am trying to be more disciplined.
If there is a filament you have a question about, I can answer what I know but as I just posted in this thread here That process is very different from application to application and environment to environment.
That’s fine. As I was mentioning before it would be a case by case request. For instance for the Bambu Lab filaments i have purchased, if you have data that differs from or is better than the default settings, I will ask you. Also, and more implicated, I have some filaments that can and are only entered as ‘Generic’ with some defaults that might differ significantly from actual experience. At any rate I have 3 brands that I have used in the past with my Tevo printer. Those and any new brands I might look into. If anything, we could compare data and see how things are different between the P1P and the X1C. Also special PLA’s that I have or might be interested in I can share with you and vice versa. Right now I have Overture plain PLA, Shaxon metal infused , Amolen Wood-infused and UV-sensitive PLA and iSANMATE temp-color-change PLA. All intended for special projects but will now be used. up. The various BL filaments I bought, especially some PETG will need to be looked into. So at any rate am no newbe, but also no pro either, far from it. However I am trying to dig deeper into this hobby now with the much more advanced BL printer and learn much more about slicer capabilities, fine tuning and venturing perhaps into new design territory.
I had this exact problem with this exact filament. After testing what I learned is that I as well as you are printing it to cold. You made the mistake of looking at the recommended temperature on the spool itself, however, that is the printing temp when your printing at 50mm a second (which is why the first layer was perfect) your printing at around 300-400mm a second. So what I have found that I do with every single filament I buy that’s not bambu is look at the temp range on the spool then take the highest temp on the spool and add 10c more to it. So if your overture says 190-220 the print at 230c. I do this rule with all my filaments and they come out perfect every time.
Also side note, don’t use grid infill. Use an infill that doesn’t have the nozzle drag over a freshly laid line. Use either gyroid or my fav honeycomb. These infill patterns never cross over each other.
That’s very good advice. Thank you. I will use honeycomb next project. I think it looks cool too. I think that Bambu might be off by 10 deg for non-Bambu filaments so it seems, because their filaments run up to 240 deg max. So is it in the Bambu printers’s hardware/firmware that is different from others? I wonder.
Tried the temp tower for the Overture PLA and the results for 190-230 deg all look similar to me, overhangs and ‘minitowers’ (whatever they can be called) and all looks pretty similar at all levels. Don’t know what to make of it.
So there is different additives In bambu pla that make it much easier to print at higher speeds. It is kinda like pla fast by other companies. It’s a bit confusing at first but when the filament feeds into the extruder it melts and lays the line. The faster you print the faster the filament gets pushed into the extruder so in turn the faster you push the filament the less time it has to melt and extrude. So that’s why you must up the temperature because it is spending less time being melted before it’s extruded. As for people saying print temp towers they do not work on the bambu because when you print at say 300mm a second, the print head doesn’t just go 0 to 300. It takes a little time to ramp up speed and those towers never hit full printing speed so the results will be misleading for real world prints.
But I promise you just add an extra 10c to the max temp on the roll and print honeycomb and you will be good to go.
I’ll second that. Tried upping a print with some cheap amazon filament up to ludicrous without any prep the other night and it started leaving clumps as it went. I was watching so immediately wound it back down to normal , but the nozzle continued to clang loudly into those lumps until the layers smoothed out again past those points. Was a noise I had heard from the printer on other jobs, but had just assumed the motors or something were a little bit crunchy in operation. Turns out volumetric rate is quite important.
What filament are you telling the machine the Overture is? Are you trying to use a Bambu Lab PLA profile? I would start with using it as Generic PLA. The Overture is probably not the same high flow rate.
I started with generic PLA and ended up using a user setting after calibration, K = 0.021 , volumetric speed 21mm2/s and temp range 190-220 deg C. I did a temp tower in Orca slicer also, but couldn’t tell which temp was optimal. But that is probably because all temps are done with the same speed setting, which was probably low enough to even work at 190. I guess one should do a combined temp and speed calibration to see how high/fast one can push the filament.
All in all, my mistake was to use grid infill for the sparse infill at too high a percentage.
btw I think ‘volumetric speed’ is a misnomer because mm2 is an area and not a volume. So mm^2/s should be called ‘areal speed’ or something like that. (Areal velocity has already been taken by Kepler). Maybe I’m nitpicking.
And how exactly is Overture responsible for any of this? I just printed a huge pumpkin that almost maxed out the build plate, taking 2 days and 8 hours to print, with white Overture PLA, and not a single blip or visible flaw resulted. I use a mixture of Bambu and Overture filament and, except for the RFID tag, I see no real difference between the two. But I do configure them appropriately on the printer.
I never blamed Overture for the nozzle-rattling. It is just a matter of getting the temp settings, K-factor and infill patterns/percentages right for any filament. Bambu Lab’s filaments have their default settings, verified and tested by BL. Some outside venders have defaults included as preset on the X1C for instance Overture, PolyLite, eSUN etc. I assume they were tested by BL. There is also a Generic setting for anything else but if chosen one has to check and calibrate if that works for one’s filament other than BL’s. So in my case I used the Overture PLA setting but the problems were not with Overture but with the infill pattern and percentage. That’s why I put “Fail” in quotes as I wasn’t sure it was a fail of the filament or other causes. I found out what caused the rattling, corrected for it and I now keep ‘happily’ printing with Overture PLA.
I hope this will satisfy the folks that found my chosen mentioning of ‘Fail’ together with ‘Overture’ objectionable.
Happy creative printing to all.
that is higher up. You must also be in the 
context menu, not preview or device context menus, otherwise the menu simply will not react to your click.