This print failed and created a spaghetti monster (the first picture) I think because of the model warping away from the bed and then maybe catching the nozzle to get kicked off the plate. When I put the partial print back on the bed, it’s clearly warped, and I’m not sure whether that’s a consequence of the geometry of the thing or what. Any suggestions welcome. The filament is generic PLA and the settings are the defaults.
When asking for help, please provide as much information as possible about your inquiry.
This will help everyone to better understand your problem, and provide you with the best solution.
Detailed description of the problem
Printer model used
Slicer settings used
Type of filament used
Photos that clearly show the problem
.3mf file (if the file can be shared)
Any potentially useful information that is related to the problem
Why did you include the list of things you are told to provide to help you get assistance and then ignore most?
Detailed description of the problem
We have no idea of any ambient temp or drafts nearby
Printer model used
That we only get from the picture
Slicer settings used
None
Type of filament used
Nope
Photos that clearly show the problem
This we got.
3mf file (if the file can be shared)
Yes, this as well.
Any potentially useful information that is related to the problem
Have you tried it more than once, did you see the head knock it, do you have infill grid or a different one (infill can cause clashes when printing. Any brim, didn’t spot one in the photo.
That is a plain adhesion issue, wrong temperatures for the filament type, not enough cooling during the print, printing plate wasn’t clean enough.
Trust me, we’ve all been there.
Try telling us what filament type are you using, brand is important, ( seems like it is PLA ), what profile did you use for that filament ( Nozzle temp - bed temp ), how do you clean your plate and we’ll figure it out together.
The printer is an A1 with up-to-date firmware. 01.03.01.02
the plate is textured. I clean with alcohol after every print. I recently read that dish-soap is preferred so i’ve done that.
the filament is duramic PLA PLUS. The default pla profile seems to be 200/45 and the duramic says 220±10 so that could be an issue. Also, that filament has been sitting on the AMS for a week - indoor humidity 40%
the printer is in the basement, probably 19-20C with no drafts i can think of.
What i really wondered was whether that geometry was hopelessly prone to warping. I will re-dry the filament and boost the bed temp but i probably won’t re-print that piece, I’m using a sheet of cardboard instead.
That is somewhat of an issue. I always use 55*C for PLA
This, not so much. PLA doesnt really need drying.
I would definitely increase the bet temp to at least 45 to 65 for PLA. Printing temp usually i use 220-225 depending on the speed im printing with.
What i really wondered was whether that geometry was hopelessly prone to warping. I will re-dry the filament and boost the bed temp but i probably won’t re-print that piece, I’m using a sheet of cardboard instead.
If you want a more safer approach is enabling the brim option for Outer perimeter. that would give it more space to adhere to.
If you want to go full blast on it, try using something that bonds it to the plate. I myself use hairspray and everything sticks like concrete. I was avoiding this because of my OCD ( i like my plates as pristine as possible) but to be fair, a good finished project is worth more than a shiny plate
Yes, that geometry is worst case for warping. The long straight filament lines along the top pull on the corners as they cool comparatively to the layers below. It’s the differential in temperature between layers, over time, combined with the 7 inch long line of filament that’s contracting. If for example the sides were notched like a timing belt, the belt teeth facing up, that would break up the long paths and reduce the effect of the contraction at the top layers. Naturally, that’s not what you want to print though.
Here are some well known ways to increase adhesion: smooth PEI sticks better than textured; you can place circley pads at each corner or a full brim to increase stick; and you can adjust Z height very slightly in order to press the first layer into the bed more. Be careful because it’s too easy to scratch the bed or clog the extruder if it’s too low.
You can also try adjusting bed temperature up or down - down, because it’s a temperature differential that causes the problem. You may also try reducing or turning off the part-cooling fan on the extruder, to reduce cooling while printing. If the ambient temperature were higher that would help too in this case.
In summary:
The geometry is working against you, as you thought. But you can still try to print it. Maybe experiment with a long low rectangle first.
Reduce part cooling by turning off the part-cooling fan, and maybe even reducing hotend temperature - it might be printable down to “190” you’ll have to see - and reducing bed temperature, so that the filament goes on cooler to start with and the differential is reduced.
Adjust Z height so that the filament presses into the bed and sticks more. Put pads or brim to help with stick at the corners. Maybe a hotter bed or hotend will help adhesion more than it hurts the temperature difference.
I agree with Mike on all but one point. I recently started cooling my PLA prints from the first layer so my fan is full blast from the first layer. Here is why.
But if you want to test it out you should. Its the only way i learned what goes and what doesnt.
ok thanks. i had a feeling it was something like that. I think i would work on the geometry “angle”. Maybe reduce the part to just those decorative arcs with maybe a thin central circle to bind them and provide an attachment point.
