I’ll try the 60, I have not changed any speeds or settings.
So far it has happened with Creality white PLA, Bambu and monoprice black PLA and bambu Metal PLA.
1 Like
Ya do all the setting above then it will help us see what is going on with your pla’s
1 Like
So far so good, printed 2 HSW wall panels, 65c 220c on the nozzle standard black PLA. printed two other small things and going fine so far. The panels were done with brims but I imagine if the plate was still messed up it would not have helped.
I ended up sanding lightly with 1000 grit paper and then doing the whole scrub procedure. What still confuses me is why I had failures on both sides even though I had only used 1 side before. I can’t imagine how I could have gotten a foreign substance on it that would not have come off after 3 rounds of dawn and a green pad but would have with sanding.
I’ll try a large flat unbrimmed piece later and see how it goes
Thanks for the help everyone
While you said that you rolled back the firmware, what about the software and network driver and things like that? I only ask, because I had similar thing, where I have been printing for months on the same settings, plate, and filament, and then over the last week, things have been having issues. I have a friend that has had his for over a year and it suddenly started having adhesion issues. I would not be surprised if there was some other setting someplace in the printer or software that has changed.
Do you use the stock profiles from Bambu for the filament that you print with? (I was wondering if they updated this as part of the recent changes to allow for user profiles to be stored on the printer).
Unfortunately, this is all speculation. I am glad to hear that you are getting better prints. I did the steel wool on my plate today to see if that will help, only time will tell.
Actually I didn’t roll back the firmware, I updated it. I had not done a firmware update since I got the printer in November.
The only setting I changed was the bed temp which I bumped up to 65c
Unfortunately during my large print I was testing I had a power outage so I’ll have to get that going again
After power issues being the only reason I was having failures, I got a UPS for my printer. Seems silly, but I hav enot had another power issue since. I just needed something to handle very short brown outs, so I did not need a big UPS, just a small one.
It’s on my list as of now. Usually my power, even being in Florida, is pretty solid but I’ll have to see what the watt draw is on an X1c and size accordingly.
It maybe the Bambu slicer is the issue….
I have owned my X 1 C for just under two weeks now and started getting failed prints much like the pictures that others have posted. After setting up the X1C and doing a couple of the sample prints included with the machine, I began the printing process of several models that I designed in Fusion 360 using both the Bambu PLA Basic and Overture PLA. Essentially everything was going well with Bambu PLA Basic and the majority of my prints using Overture PLA.
Then last last Sunday, after a successful print, the next print failed. I switched back from the Overture PLA to the Bambu PLA Basic and the part failed as well. The first layer was not adhering to the bed and the printer did not recognize the ‘spaghetti’ mess and the printer had created.
I came across this post and started to testing and troubleshooting but still had the bed adhesion issue.
I then reset the machine back to factory settings and printed the scraper model that comes with printer. I did in both filaments (Bambu and Overture) and both printed perfectly.
Next I attempted a print from one of my designed models… it failed.
But this time I monitored the process and noticed that in this last failed print, that the first layer was not completely put down before the analysis process.
Next, I printed a model that I downloaded and it printed perfect. And the entire first layer was complete before the extrusion analysis took place.
So as another test point, I loaded the print I designed in Fusion 360 into the Orca slicer and had a successful print. I have successfully completed two more prints using the Orca slicer and am currently printing another now and the bed adhesion is good.
So question, how can I tell which versions of the Bambu slicer I have installed.
I hope this helps.
Welcome to the forum.
This tells me that your model isn’t laying flat on the build plate. Bambu Studio doesn’t always import a model perfectly flat to the build plate.
3 Likes
I used the same process in setting up the model in both the Bambu and Orca slicers… both were flat. I cant use the F function, as i need the model to stand vertically to get the quality in a curve that i need. I tried printing the model using the F command and it came out really bad
Pictures of how your slicing the model and the failed prints would be really helpful.
3 Likes
I have almost same issue. Its getting really frustrate. My prints looks like same to you, but fault is now bigger. Usually calibration lines comes out successfully, but when printer should start to print model filament “stucks” in nozzle. This started i think yesterday. I have tried following:
- Manual bed leveling/tramming (several times).
- Change nozzle to brand new.
- Dry filament (12h)
- Factory reset
- Change bed temp (increase)
- Change filament settings (basic, bambu, own values)
- When extruding manually filament comes straight line.
- Tryed Orcaslicer
- Tryed PETG, PLA same result.
- Cleaned nozzle, cleaned print bed.
Nothing comes anymore out 
Here are couple of examples…
btw. printer is only 1 month old
Any suggestions what to try next?
Thanks for the advice.
@hakkapet, sink full of hot water, Dawn/basic dish detergent (no additives) and a light scouring. Maybe a light coat of gluestick?
If that doesn’t help, maybe flip the plate over or change to another one.
@GenericUser After my post i tried that already: same problem. Even when i put brand new cool plate or try Engineering plate+PETG. Same issue PLA/PETG and Cool plate (new/old) or Engineering plate. Not even Bency wont print anymore correctly.
Well thats pretty much at the point where a Ticket needs to be sent in. I’ve had difficult days where not much has gone right and following similar to your list has gotten me back on track.
Mabe this is too obvious, but… since it is winter, maybe it’s worth asking: has the onset of your print adhesion problem happened to coincide with a drop in your ambient room temperature?
It happened to me just recently, and I traced the cause to that. You can test whether lowered print bed temperature might be your problem or not with either an IR gun or a thermocouple. Or just raise your bed temperature and see whether it fixes your problem. If it does, then it would serve to confirm the source of the problem.
I did notice this a month back too, seasonal/environmental factors do play a part for sure. Raising the bed temp and maybe closing the lid to counter it helps. I got through winter (I’m in the southern hemisphere) with my X1C in my old Ender enclosure 
Actually i have been thinking about this: because outside temp dropped couple days ago -2 to -15 degrees. I checked that this effects only about 1 degrees inside temp and i think it should be problem. Yes i make a Bambu-ticket for this problem. When i now think this it has have problems since day 1 (but i assume that these are normal/features) 
. I’ve been jealous that someone can print 10 molds on one plate and I can’t even print three at the same time. The previous printer was Flashforge, which had a lot of problems, but I must say I’m disappointed. The printer is also in a room that should not be affected by anything outside.
If your prints are already barely hanging on to the printbed by the skin of their teeth, then it may not take much for the prints to fail, because it could all be happening at the temperature margin.
And it can work in the other direction also. For instance, raising the printbed temperature by a mere 5 degrees celsius didn’t seem like a big deal, but even so it made a big difference. Prints went from total failure to printing pretty good.
Well it now shows that everything is almost good.
How i solved it. I changed plate to brand new and incresed PLA bed temp to 40 it sticks to bed too hard. Changed bed temp to 37 same problem. Changed bed temp to 36 print wont stay at bed. I take sand paper (emery paper) and done some sanding to that new cool plate. Plate looks like this.
I reduced bed temp back to 35 for PLA and PLA prints are now okay.
Try to increase PETG bed temp to 75 still spagetti in nozzle. Increased bed temp to 80 still spagetti in nozzle. After that i doing some sanding also in that engineering plate. PETG prints are okay. If i reduce bed temp back to normal 70 print wont stay at bed (even if plate is sanded). PETG has some quality problems and trying to solve them next. Also bed temp is quite high (80). Also lessons learned that 320 sanding paper is too raw.
