Have the same one, it’s pretty nice
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I agree this is a real problem for me as well.
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I hadn’t noticed this thread earlier or I would have posted here rather than start a new threaed. Anyhow, essentially same topic, from a different angle, and a different evolved solution, covered here:
for anyone who may be interested.
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I keep my H2D off unless i’m going to use it. The first print out of it is guaranteed to trip the breaker, even if it is only to heat up the build plate to 55C
Well, today I needed to do a print requiring the build plate to be 65C. I also had two other X1Cs running on the same circuit. Because of that, I slowly let the H2D build plate warm up to around 50C over the course of about an hour before starting my print. It was about 10 min into the first layer before it tripped the breaker 
How do you slowly heat up the build plate? I think most of us are only having issue when the build plate it first heating and using the high power heating option.
The easiest would be to insert a series of g-code commands into the print pre-amble. In pseudo-code, something like:
set bulid plate to 35C, wait 5 minutes, set to 40C, wait 5 minutes, set to 45C, wait 5 minutes, etc.
or perhaps more fine grained, like raise 1C, wait 1 minute, raise another 1C, wait another minute, etc. That would be much closer to ideal.
Tedious to write, but you only have to do it once, and then it’s automatic.
You can find the proper g-code commands in the wiki.
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manually bumping up the temp
I used to only experience power issues during the “first heating” as well when getting the build plate to 55C. Letting it slowly warm up helped me avoid tripping the breaker. However, this process did not work when trying to print at 65C. I will try it again without my 2 other printers running.
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Yea this is a real issue for me in Switzerland as well. I have a 10 Ampere fuze and there are other devices on it as well. In my case that means I would need to put the H2D onto its very own fuze juts to maybe meet the power draw requirements. I ordered the H2D Laser combo. And I realy hope bambu fixes this in a filmware update untill it arrives at my doorstep.
I realy don’t care for longer bed heating times.
**Please give me the option to limmit the power draw Bambu. I know you can make it happen. ** 
This is for me the most important issue they should adress ASAP and the sole reason I signed up to this Forum.
Thanks guys for bringing this to bambus awareness together. 
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Man that sounds awful, I hope they fix that soon for us all. I would have a similar situation once my printer arrives.
Feel you man. 
You do but can your circuit carry 16A? I don’t think I have any wire below 2.5mm2 in my house and still some circuits are on 10A fuse although 2.5mm2 wring are rated up to 20A.
For 16A, you only need 1.5mm2, you may be able to set that particular circuit on a 16A fuse.
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Yea the wire would totally be able to hold it, but the fuse in the fuse box are limmited to 10A and I can’t put in a larger one. It physically doesn’t fit in Switzerland.
I have to hope for Bambu Labs to do the right thing and release the Filmware that fixes it.
the printer was deployed today, so they still have a few days left to push the update 
Any luck for you to get it working properly by yourself?
Replace it with a 16A breaker then.My printers (P1S + H2D) anre connected to one single 16A circuit and all is fine.
The beta firmware is available, it does not provide for slow bed warming though. I joined the beta firmware program and did not see the beta available at first until I switched the printer off and on, and when connected, it immediately proposed to update the firmware.
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Are you trying to burn your house down?
Why would you attempt to run a printer like this on a UPS.
Pretty bad idea!
If your household electric can’t handle the power requirement purchase a different printer!
It is what it is!
I’ve had to re-wire in the past to run equipment like this.
A power requirement such as this should be on a circuit well suited for the power draw.
Such as a 20amp circuit.
Maybe those putting these in bedrooms and apartments should be taking this in to consideration.
You can absolutely get UPSes that will handle this load, they’re just more expensive
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True but totally pointless.
I don’t plan on 3D printing while I’m camping or on a picnic! 
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That’s pretty short-sighted. If power goes out on the 45th hour of a 60 hour print, that could VERY easily lead to print failure. With a sufficiently rated UPS/power station you can continue running long enough for the power to be restored. I could continue printing for around 4-6 hours with mine
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I’m not sure what your point is…
Are you saying people should live somewhere different because they’re asking a manufacturer to make a simple fix to accommodate more customers?
I’m not buying the UPS argument, but being able to adjust the power draw with a software fix is really not asking much. Certainly less of a bother than asking people to rewire their houses
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This happened to me exactly last night. We lost power for about 30 seconds and I was almost done with a 3 day print. All my printers kept going without issue. Including the H2D. Does this happen often enough to pay for the UPS? Probably not, but it’s the principal. And it totally isn’t worth buying a $500UPS for. But it’s only an issue in the one instance of the few seconds it takes the H2D to heat the bed.
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My point is very simple.
Have a power circuit in a suitable place for your printers specifications.
The X1C would be a viable option if for someone that doesn’t have enough power!
Why risk a fire or worse!
I don’t have any idea where you are installing your printer (don’t really care either) but I have seen videos and pictures of people operating these types of printers in some pretty dumb locations!
3D Printers can and do catch fire so can lasers!
Most typical homes in the US are capable of at least a 20amp circuit.
Yes, adding a 20amp circuit might be a wise choice.
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