Feature Request: True 6 Colour Native Bundle for H2C

Hi Bambu Lab Team,

With the launch of the H2C and its incredible Vortek multi-hotend changer, the potential for true multi-colour printing is amazing. However, looking at the current retail bundle structures, there is a missed opportunity for a seamless, out of the box 6 colour experience.

Currently, the machine ships with mixed nozzle sizes (four 0.4mm, one 0.2mm, and one 0.6mm), a user cannot physically print 6 colours without purging without buying 2 extra identical 0.4mm hotends separately.

My Suggestion:
Please consider offering an “H2C Artisan 7 Multi-Colour Edition” bundle. This bundle would ideally include:

  1. The H2C Printer.
  2. Two matching AMS 2 Pro units.
  3. A complete, uniform set of six 0.4mm induction hotends.
  4. Optional Filament Track Switch

Having a single SKU that is 100% ready for maximum 6 colour multi-colour capacity on day one without requiring users to manually piece together extra matching nozzles would be incredibly appealing to creators and a massive selling point.

Thanks for listening to community feedback!


First, the Vortek system only uses six induction nozzles. Not seven. You can’t have all six docks occupied plus the right side extruder. How would the system ever swap out the nozzles if there wasn’t an open dock slot available at all times?

That detail aside, the H2C Ultimate combo DID have all the stuff you listed:

2 x AMS 2 Pro
1x AMS HT
6 x 0.4 mm Vortek nozzles
…bunch of other stuff.

Anyhow, there’s nothing stopping customers from adding three extra Vortek nozzles and an extra AMS 2 Pro and the FTS to their cart when they’re buying their H2C, as well.

It’s still there, minus the HT (no great loss anyway… :sweat_smile: ), plus the FTS (meh), at least in the US store:

Exactly what @Xiphos44 is asking for? Or did they just put that up in the last 2 hours after seeing this post? :laughing:

I’m not sure what one is supposed to do with 7x 0.4 induction nozzles… extra in case one clogs? To dedicate to TPU? Personally I’d rather have some HF versions. :person_shrugging:

It’s too bad they’re not offering many discounted accessories, like extra hotends or an HT. IIRC I picked up a bunch of extra nozzles with my printer back in November, due to the discount. Those things really add up at full price!

-Max

They said “true 7-color right nozzle printing”, so they appear to be of the mistaken belief that Vortek can use seven nozzles simultaneously.

I created my own package, H2C with 2 AMS Pro’s and 2 AMS-HT’s all feeding an FTS.

I have to say it isn’t my dream way of doing things, it’s difficult to get colors to align with models from Makers World. The AMS’s don’t read left to right and the extra spool once loaded with filament data can’t be removed when not used.

Granted I’m no expert and still learning.

@CarbonForge , thanks for the info. I don’t have one of these machines yet it is on my wish list so not fully familiar with all requirements. I wasn’t thinking about the need to keep one nozzle free to swap. So max is 6 colours without having to purge. The promo you provided a screenshot of doesn’t appear to be an option anymore online. I guess the point I was making is that its a big outlay to start with and I think users may be surprised on delivery day that the bundles don’t allow for an efficient 6 colour print straight out of the box and they need to purchase extra nozzles on top.

I’m no expert but after a cursory look there are common issues that have some fixes available:

The MakerWorld Color Alignment Issue: MakerWorld models are typically mapped for a standard 4-color AMS setup (Slots 1–4). When you import a 3MF file into Bambu Studio, it tries to map those exact index numbers. Because your system has a complex mesh of splitters (FTS) and multiple hubs, the software gets confused.

  • The Fix: Instead of printing straight from the app, open the model in Bambu Studio, click the Filament panel, and use the ‘Re-synchronise’ or ‘Change Filament’ tool to manually remap the model’s color indexes to your specific AMS slots before hitting print. [1, 2, 3]
  1. The ‘Not Reading Left to Right’ Quirk: Bambu’s firmware numbers AMS units based on the order they are daisy-chained via the data cables, not how they physically sit on your desk.
    • The Fix: If your screen layout is messy, try swapping the data cables on the back of the AMS units so the machine recognises them in a logical linear order. Also, ensure you go into the printer’s screen settings under AMS Setup → Manual Mode to explicitly tell the machine which AMS feeds the left or right hotend. [1, 2, 3]
  2. Stuck Filament Data: The issue where you can’t clear a slot’s profile once it’s loaded is a known software bug in the ecosystem.
    • The Fix: To clear a “ghost” filament profile, you usually have to trick the machine by briefly pulling the physical spool out, hitting ‘Reset’ or ‘Clear’ on the device screen, or setting it to a generic blank profile.

Thanks for your assistance.

The fix:

I’ll read those again. But it’s an example of how uTube instructions get out of date so quickly. One link refers to the “new” Studio version 2.7 .. I’m playing with 2.8.3.66 beta to see if it fixes anything.

Not reading left to right:

I have them connected in the correct order. But note I have an FTS being fed by 2x AMS2 Pro and 2x AMS-HT’s. That is, FTS to first AMS (left from front) then to right AMS then to the AMS-HT’s.

The complication with the FTS is that you need to use splitters to feed the A and B FTS inputs from AMS’s. Then the 2 outputs go to the 2 inputs of the H2C. The latest SW informs me it sees the FTS - I need to understand what it’s asking me to do. Can you explain the difference between Mapping and Overwriting?

Stuck filaments

I’m not sure this what I’m trying to fix. I have never used an external spool on this machine. It is however convinced I did and I see no option to delete it. So, I can’t follow your suggestion to trick the machine there is nothing to reset or clear. I’m going to try disconnecting the AMS-HT’s and doing a resync to see if that helps.

I have similar bridge on top of my H2C, but without the riser. The HT’s are located on the right side close to the splitters that lead to the FTS.

I’m sorry to say that recent hospitalizations have left me a bit foggy in addition to just being old, so it takes quite a bit to comprehend some of the instructions. Please bear with me.