I managed to put over 200 hours on. H2S in two weeks but I am new to 3d printing.
I want to run some TPU 95a hf. I searched the forum, looked at the website and I can’t seem to find a clear answer.
I’d like to feed it straight in from the side spool. Then I read about the TPU port with no additional information. Lots of info about feeding softer filament from the top.
Can someone please clarify?
Thanks
Bill.
TPU 95 is fine to use through the side spool, anything below that should be fed through the port or top.
There is a dedicated TPU inlet on the printer.
Use this for TPU 95A, you can also use the main rear inlet, but you likely have an AMS 2 Pro, AMS or AMS HT connected that that.
As @3D_Prints said, any softer TPU like: 85A or 90A should be feed directly into the print head as this guide helps you understand.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/h2d-tpu-printing-guide
There is even a top-mounted spool holder you can print to make this easy.
If you are using TPU for AMS (68D shore), you can use that in any AMS.
If you use the TPU port what’s the drill?
Stick a tube in the port?
Feed it from the side reel?
Rout it to the print head how?
You would normally place the spool on a spool holder and then feed the TPU 95A through the rear TPU inlet.
Mke sure you read all of the guide I shared above on the wiki.
Loading TPU with the dedicated inlet
I spotted this video with a decent tip about tubing.
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1kcbs2e/how_i_fixed_the_h2d_tpu_port/
This might help if you are going to do this often.
The model above Malc posted or a 4 to 1 PTFE splitter + dual feed for the spool. That way you always have the TPU line available without needing to rearrange any tubes. The below two items is the setup Im running.
Now I’ll probably get branded as Satan himself, but I actually feed TPU and PEBA down to 65A through my AMS HT bypass straight into the printer’s bypass — full PTFE path, no drama. The only thing I changed was swapping to PTFE Tough tubes, and it’s been running flawlessly ever since.
Good to know.
If you have a couple of short videos showing the process from insertion to printing, and printing the first few layers, that would really benefit the community.
I can certainly create these, but I’m currently running a project with ASA Aero, so the printer will be occupied for the next few days.
One thing you should really check with the AMS HT is the internal rollers. I haven’t had any issues with leaking units, but all of my AMS HTs originally had rough rollers that didn’t move smoothly at all. I had to disassemble every unit to make the feeding as smooth as possible. After that, they now work flawlessly with both plastic and cardboard spools.
The reason I haven’t shared this as a general TPU feeding solution is that it requires the use of PTFE Tough tubing to achieve a smooth, low-friction path and gentle curves down to the printer.
In my setup, I use PTFE Tough all the way from the AMS HT to the toolhead on my H2D. On my X1 Carbon, I’ve also replaced every possible PTFE tube — even the internal ones inside my original AMS units — with PTFE Tough.
If anyone wants to try this approach, I can definitely take some photos and share more details. I first developed this method on my X1 Carbon to keep TPU dry and later adapted it for the H2D. It might not work perfectly for everyone, so keep that in mind.
OP here, I looked at the machine more closely.
This is my plan of attack to run TPU 95a HF.
I built a platform to hold the AMS HT at the level of the TPU port to give it a straight feed. I am going to feed the filament out the accessory port. I plan to run PTFE tube from that port through the TPU port through the wire loom to the print head.
This seems the only strategy. Any comments?
Bill
I keep my AMS HT on top of the printer and feed everything from 65A to 95A directly through the PTFE tube to the printer’s bypass without any issues. In my opinion, keeping the spool perfectly level is often overemphasized — the real key is minimizing friction. A straight feed path into the printer helps reduce friction significantly, and keeping the TPU dry also makes a big difference. Even slightly moist TPU can create enough friction in the PTFE tubes to cause feeding problems. I’ve used this setup on both my X1 Carbon and H2D without encountering any issues so far.
To close the loop, everything went well. Printed fine no drama, thanks for the help.
Hi! Would you mind sharing the steps you followed? I’m in a similar spot to where you were a few months ago. I’m new to 3D printing and planning my first TPU print with 95A HF, so any guidance would be really helpful. Thanks!
Appreciate this is an older post, have you done the same with 60A by any chance?
I was running some last week for someone and having to disassemble everything to get the glass lid off is a pain in my set up.
Can you run it through the bypass through ptfe?!
Not yet, I have shifted my flexible prints to PEBA, and I have not come across PEBA with that Shore hardness so far.
However, the next time I need to restock filament, I can add a spool or two of 60A TPU and experiment with it.
PEBA is not a magic bullet for every application, so you cannot simply say “just use PEBA instead of TPU” across the board. Both materials have their own pros and cons, and each makes more sense in different use cases.
Thanks mate.
Unfortunately I wouldn’t be able to change it anyway as its customer supplied/specified material. I just have the means to print it, even if that means taking apart the whole thing to set up each time. Getting a steady supply requiring it so I wouldn’t want to do the long winded set up each time if I can help it.
Totally understandable.
Can’t promise when I can test this out with 60A, so far I have printed with 65A and that worked as it should.
That’s good to know, thank you. I’d like to hope that there won’t be too much of a huge difference between the two shore hardnesses.
Are you just running it through the bypass then into the ptfe that’s always connected to the extruder? Like you would with say 95a etc.
any chances you can share your setup? iam recently trying to do some softer TPU Prints, i have acceptile results with TPU 95A and a sunlu s2 dryer feeding it from top into the x1c. But i had to “pimp” the dryer with smoother ball bearings which run easier.
ive also tried the bambulab 85A TPU, but results on benchy tests are okayish at max(looks like a benchy, but uneven layering and also quite some stringing even with 24h drying before) even with my pimped dryer setup feeding from top dirctly into the head.
ive searched for the PTFE Tough you mentioned, do you mean those star shaped creatly tubes? only thing i can find but remarks on them are mixed with TPU.
