I am writing to formally request a color expansion for the Bambu ABS lineup. Currently, the only available shade in this spectrum is Tangerine Yellow, which has a warm, orange-leaning hue.
For engineers, workshop owners, and enterprise users printing functional mechanical components, we heavily rely on official industrial coloring standards. I propose adding an ANSI PMS 109C “Safety Yellow” option to the standard ABS line.
Why this benefits the Bambu ecosystem:
True Industrial & OSHA Compliance: The current Tangerine Yellow fails to meet strict color compliance requirements for workplace caution markings. A true PMS 109C variant allows commercial users to print compliant factory guards, hazard indicators, and sensor brackets directly on their X1/P1S/H2 printers, or othres
Massive Accent Color Demand: Opaque, industrial yellow is a highly sought-after accent color for custom printer builds, enclosed enclosures, and tool setups (like Gridfinity systems subjected to high-heat garage environments).
The Current Material Gap: Standard PLA options warp in high-temperature environments, and Tangerine Yellow is too dark for proper contrast. Standard ABS is the perfect cost-effective, impact-resistant medium for these parts.
Suggested Technical Specifications:
Pantone Matching System: PMS 109 C
Hex Target:#FFD100
RGB Target: R: 255, G: 209, B: 0
Thank you for considering this addition to support functional makers and enterprise engineering teams!
Since I just got mu Bambu printer, I am sticking with their filament just to make sure that I don’t get any errors, there are only a few brands with specific entries in Bambu Lab studio for filaments. Fortunately one that they have there is eSun PLA+ which I have used for years. Not against trying out Anycubics tho. The safety color is used in the logo of a friends company, and I am making things for him… I haven’t been stopped for using paint either… Nitro lacquer mixed with talc makes a good sealer and sticks well to PLA, then paint with a quality spray paint. Not the crap that big box stores or wa*****rt sells… Industrial stuff or automotive paint is better.
I use eSun PLA+ which is on the list natively in Bambu Studio… I have had some filaments that did not work very well (Getting samples from 3D printing conventions.) I have had good results with Matterhackers.
I think thats what directed me to this forum page…Actually since 3D printing is becoming more and more in use, all of the standard ANSI colors ought to be available, and for ither areas like the EU or Asia, or Australia, whatever thier government standard colors are could be too…
I have black anyway, but wanted goldenrod as it is the standard pair for warning signs and such, and my friends business logo…(Black and Yellow stripes at an angle…)
Haven’t tried ASA, how is the thermal resistance? I used ABS to make my cell phone holder in my car. Works great. Previous one was Tough PLA bonded to 0.0325” thick G10 Fiberglass, and it warped the fiberglass in the heat. It is 100° in the shade here in Pennsyltucky right now…olo
I should have actually asked more, I used ABS for my phone holder in the car, it has been holding up very well in this 105° heat. But one thing I noticed with ABS is it does not seem as tough as PLA. I frequently make things where a hole is slightly chamfered then I just force drive a screw into it letting the screw cut its own threads. My latest project required high temp plastic so I used ABS. I have had a few attachment locations crack when the screw was installed. (I can fix it, but an annoyance.) I can solvent glue the part with the screw out, then thread the hole with a tap… But was wondering for the future if ASA would be more resilient?
Both asa and abs can print successfully but have real poor adhesion depending on the heat. It’s a fine line between keeping it hot enough to be strong, and cool enough to accept the next layer. Chamber heat, layer times, etc etc. Break your temp tower with your hands for a good vibe check.
Also important to remember that ABS shrinks more than PLA. A hole that works for a screw in PLA often will need to be adjusted larger for a screw when printed in ABS.
It cracks because you are forcing a spiral wedge into the plastic. Soft plastics can deform to make space for the thread. Stiff ones cannot, so they crack. Use a tap or a thread-cutting screw (one that actually removes material) to cut threads into stiff plastic.
What I meant to say was why OP’s design has that issue. You leave a minimum of 2 material thickness or 2 hole diameters between a hole and an edge, and you digitally mark out tapping or clearance holes in the part of the appropriate size. (You can use less than 2, but I use 2 so I don’t have to lookup or memorize a number of different limits)
The hole was the correct size, that I wanted measured with a vernier caliper. And verified with a drill bit the correct diameter. I haven’t had the ability for using ABS until recently, after years of being used to something, I didn’t think it thru, figuring ABS would be stronger than PLA anyway. Of course if figures THIS particular application was the one size I don’t have a tap for…guess what i’m buying…lol
Note: The holes have 5 walls…
I have seen a lot of stuff over the years with sheet metal screws going into holes in injection molded styrene cases, the posts always end up cracking. (Think old school plastic Radio Shack project boxes.)
I have used that method with pla with no cracking, I print the hole to the diameter required for threading from a standard SAE/metric drill guide page. Then I use a drill to make the holes about 0.005 - 0.007 larger, then just drive the screws in. Holes are printed with five layers. But, in this particular case, I discovered a difference after it was too late, and the holes are horizontal in this particular part, so the wedging factor was parallel to the layers rather than perpendicular. Future prints because I need more of the same part I will use a tap. I wanted to use embedded nuts, but there were 2 problems with that. how to stop the print and install the nuts, since they would be vertically oriented. Second problem, The part is as the point where there are too nay triangles and Tinkercad will not let me do any more mods to the design, and I do not have the knowledge to bring it into Fusion 360 or other high end CAD program.
As for temperature, I simply wanted something to make my cell phone holder in my car that would hold up to as high as 170° sitting in the summer heat in the car. ABS printed part is working well, no warping. Rest of holder is PETG but they were the only parts I ever had print properly with that material. I have had very bad luck with PETG cracking weeks later for no apparent reason.
