I would say its a good idea to do it for each color. Not sure about different lots havent tried that yet. But the calibrations do make a BIG difference in print quality.
I’ve been calibrating almost every different combo of material, manufacturer, and color, and there are small but noticeable differences. But when I’m in a hurry, I have gotten acceptable results from a new filament using a preset tuned for a different manufacturer or color.
My prints are primarily single, functional items for my own use, so small cosmetic flaws are acceptable. When appearance is more important, or if a print fails, I run a complete set of calibrations on the spool.
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I am happy to report → My Lidar issues are gone since updating to 01.07.00.00 (20231211)
Note: I updated and ran all calibrations. Everything is fine.
Yeah, my LiDAR actually was dead and they sent me replacement parts… probably just coincidence that you noticed it only after the updated since you use the textured bed and probably haven’t relied on LiDAR for a while.
I’ve noticed that I cannot see the LiDAR light if I look directly at the printer, but it is very visible if I watch the video monitor in Studio or Handy.
… and I am using Orca Slicer with the flow calibr and PA settings available there. No need to use Lidar for me ( geeting the failure repost as well)
The lidar light wavelength is not normally visible to the human eye. You may be able to see it using the selfie camera on your phone or with the front camera on a fairly early phone. I remember being able to use my iPhone 3GS front camera to check TV remotes but at some point, manufacturers started using IR filters that blocked that wavelength. My 11 Pro only works with the selfie camera.
I had same error. I restarted machine. Then recalibrated lidar, then did self tests. Then restarted again and issue has now gone away
Apart from my Bambu and Polyterra filaments I just used the Generic PLA profile and all seemed good, however, I have just bought some Geeetech PLA and the first layer leaves a lumpy finish on top, I ran a flow calibration for it but that did not solve the issue, I then dried the filament, again this has not solved the issue. I am thinking of doing a manual flow calibration, the one that P1 owners use, I am sure I read somewhere that someone was getting better results with a manual test rather than the lidar one.
Which method do you use for calibrating your filament?