I went online with the link you provided, slept on it for a day and now they’re out of stock 
The first chance I get I’m grabbing a few when they become available again
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This seems to be exactly the same and is available → https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005119688537.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Would be great if someone can get in touch with the company that produce this clone and ask them to do a 2mm longer thread to make it compatible with most M6 nozzle.
We are just 2mm away from a really compatible hotend…
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There are unfortunately many offers for this hotend on Aliexpress, so I don’t think the manufacturer can be found there.
If you enter the search term “Bambu Lab” at Alibaba.com, for example, you will be overwhelmed with Bambu Lab original articles and also many compatible manufacturers such as print beds and hotends. Bambu Lab-Bambu Lab Manufacturers, Suppliers and Exporters on Alibaba.com3D Printers However, you have to pay attention to the minimum purchase quantity at the low prices. A PEI print bed for 12$ is great, but only if you take 10 boxes 
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I have no idea why they chose to use a completely new nozzle design instead of simple V6 compatibility.
You can carefully drill into the heatsink so the heat break tube sits higher. It seems to be OK leaving just a tiny gap between the collar on the block and the heatsink. I also chamfered the hole in the top of the heatsink because the corners were sharp compared to stock.
I got some cheap Chinese brass V6 nozzles with the 3 hole copper inserts. I didn’t like the way the middle of the insert would mostly block the hole in the block so I filed it down and countersunk the 3 holes again.
Then I had problems with it not sealing and filament leaking down the thread and filling up the silicone sock. I filed some more off the thread so the shoulder of the nozzle sat against the block which helped reduce height even more but still leaked slowly. A bit of PTFE tape stopped the leak but isn’t a great solution. I will be trying a copper washer on the nozzle when I get round to it.
In the mean time a 0.6mm nozzle has been printing PLA and PETG at 35mm^3/s. Initially it would do PLA flow tests at 35mm^3/s and 225C but the heater could not maintain 235C and would error out. After filing down the nozzle it seemed better possibly because the nozzle didn’t poke out of the silicone sock as much. I think I did a PLA flow test OK at 230C and I have been printing parts in PETG at 240C, but, for parts the average flow rate would be less than 35mm^3/s.
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You can carefully drill into the heatsink so the heat break tube sits higher. It seems to be OK leaving just a tiny gap between the collar on the block and the heatsink. I also chamfered the hole in the top of the heatsink because the corners were sharp compared to stock.
In the mean time a 0.6mm nozzle has been printing PLA and PETG at 35mm^3/s. Initially it would do PLA flow tests at 35mm^3/s and 225C but the heater could not maintain 235C and would error out. After filing down the nozzle it seemed better possibly because the nozzle didn’t poke out of the silicone sock as much. I think I did a PLA flow test OK at 230C and I have been printing parts in PETG at 240C, but, for parts the average flow rate would be less than 35mm^3/s.
Well thanks but this is is somehow have already be mentioned elsewhere :
EDIT: anyway the only good solution IMHO would be to have a thread length that match standar nozzles, cutting heatsink, using spacers to make contact, all are workarounds
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Sorry I didn’t realise you had an exclusive right to talk about 3rd party hot ends and nozzles.
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Sorry man, I really did not wanted to be offensive in any way, just pointing that it was duplicate information into the same thread
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@froboz & @DzzD the more deal with the topic the better and the more likely a good solution comes out. there it is rather unimportant whether a possible solution 1 times or 3 times was mentioned. finally it is about finding a solution and there every thought is valuable
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Since the link is broken, here’s a new one
https://www.printables.com/model/401243-bambu-lab-nozzle-wiper-225mm
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No need to use the CHT and have the printer complain about offsets. The same store on AliExpress that sells the hotend w/ removable nozzle now has a smaller CHT style nozzle available.
[https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805060155815.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.14.43e2180283aIaK&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US](https://Haldis 3D 500℃ Upgraded Heated Copper Plated Heater Block Repair Part,CHT Brass)
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im currently using the bondtech CHT with great success, just ordered these though and am excited to see how they will perform
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Thanks, Order passed 
I personally wouldn’t use a brass brush, I designed some for an IDEX printer and the filament cools and sticks to the brass. IMO the roller idea is better as a wiper, and I also tried silicon blades too.
Mike
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Got my CHT nozzle the other day, 0.6. Using the Bambu White PLA that came with my P1P, I got a decent quality 12 minute benchy. Wanted to know the real max flow rate of the new nozzle. Ran the max flow rate test in the Soft Fever fork of Bambu Slicer. Did great up to 45mms then started getting missed steps, with 1 min to go at 50mms the print stopped due to a thermal runaway error.
25 min benchy on the left 12 min on the right. This is before I installed the extra cooling fan, so the bow is warped.
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Hatchbox PETG 255c CHT 0.6, 15mms - 50mms
Made it all the way to 50mms without setting off the thermal runaway. Layers look ok up to 40mms, but layer adhesion was terrible after 20mms
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I received and try the Aliexpress clones (0.4 & 0.6 mm nozzles), for now I only tried the .4mm nozzle and the results are already greats !
I tried to print same gcode that I already printed with original .4mm Bambu nozzle and I can say that it works perfectly and I got same quality and absolutly no more issues relative to height, leak or thermal runaway that I was getting with the original CHT.
Then, I tried up to 35mm³/s prints and it also works great and the heater can sustain the temperature easily (probably related to the smaller & higher nozzle size).
The 0.4mm nozzle, with 0.28 layer height enable to use 350mm/s for Inner wall, Sparse infill & internal solid infill without decrease in quality.
Another great benefit is that because heat is better transfered to the plastic, it is possible to print faster with lower temperature. Before if I wanted to print fast I had to use the highest temperature of the filament.
Important last note / downside : printing with such high flow is interresting only with a good / quality filament (esun PLA+ works great), low cost PLA introduce a lot of issues.
I will give feedback on 0.6mm nozzle later.
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Let me know about 0.6mm as I am about to order it from aliexpress. How long did it take to come? Do you need to do any change in bambu lab?
Send links if you have them so I can be sure to order the correct ones.
Does 500C mean it will work with PEEK now?
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This doesn’t increase the printers abililty to heat the hotend, perhaps it means the hotend would survive 500c. Since the printer is unable to reach such temperatures that’s irrelevant. It just lets you use non bambu lab nozzles.
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As said above no it wont enable to reach 500°C, and even if you add a second ceramic heater in parallele wich is easily doable nothing is made on this printer to print at a such high temperature.
You may be able to reach 500°c but I guess you will have some parts that will began to melt and the heatbreaker wont be able to break heat enought etc… etc…
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