Yeah, the need to improve the Z offset and add options to the filament settings so you can fine tune the left or right adjustments if necessary.
Not all filaments will work well with a single global offset setting.
I made some progress for a moment — I leveled the bed with a dial gauge on the day version 01.01.02.08 was released, did a factory reset and all the calibrations. Suddenly, the first layer from the left nozzle was almost perfect, and from the right one — perfect. I thought the problem was finally solved, but no. Nothing was changed, and the issue came back. I’m in contact with support, but the speed of message exchange is like we’re writing letters to each other and waiting for the postman.
@user_2765309793 Are both the left and right nozzles identical? I don’t know if it’s true or not, but I’ve read that, at least for now, they both need to be 1. same diameter and 2. both be standard or both be HF. The reason I remember it is that quite a number of people were wanting to use a standard 0.4mm nozzle as the right nozzle, to be used for printing the outer wall (i.e. the part that’s visible to all our eyes) and wanting to use either a HF or just a larger diameter nozzle for printing the inner walls and infill (neither of which are directly visible). Bambu either said it wasn’t allowed or should not be done, I can’t remember which.
Now, if it was “should not be done” but someone did it anyway, it begs the question as to what would happen. Now, if you were unknowingly doing it, maybe your botched results shown in your photos are “Exhibit A” in what would happen.
On my H2D, I found that the Z offset using firmware version 01.01.02.08 is much better than before. I also had to replace the offset sensor to fix the high temperature error that occurred every time at 270c or more.
Have you inspected the left nozzle rail? If the Z offset occasionally reads high, try applying some lubricant to it.
I hope they get it resolved for you soon. Let us know what you find out.