To wrap up this story… here’s the final results. First panel printed pretty nicely (for my level of experience). The second layer, starting with the panel “gaps”, as mentioned above, was a mess. Those problems continued intermittently until i upped the temp.
Panels separated nicely and still seemed strong. Need to refine things more and understand my materials and process before doing a print that size again.
I think a temp tower and drying process are next agenda items.
Wait a moment… Are you printing those on top of each other???
Ok, this is starting to make more sense now. If this print is being nested on top of each other, the problem may be more about slicing and modeling.
Definitely do the temp tower in Orca Slicer (not sure in Bambu Slicer has the temp tower option). That should show you the best temp to print at to get rid of the stringing.
And if you must nest them on top of each other you’ll need to model that in the CAD software. Honestly, that sounds like it will be too difficult to do for someone with very little experience 3D printing, so I’d suggest just doing one at a time.
I recently bought a large bundle of PETG specifically from FIROS and also was very surprised by how low their temperature was labeled on ALL 12 SPOOLS of different colors I got from them. I too mistrusted the label as most of the previous comments suggested and tried printing at a more ‘normal’ PETG temperature, but surprisingly with my Bambu Lab A1 I found the best nozzle temperature was about 230C across all the colors, which would follow their 220 recommendation +10 and accounting for the steel nozzle vs brass. It printed alright at 220, though the color was more matte at that temperature despite still having strong layer adhesion. The Generic PETG profile in Bambu Studio was too hot and ended up stringing and blobbing with holes in the outer walls of my parts. Thought it would be valuable to share my own similar experience with this specific brand of filament.
The model comes already stacked, with a 0.2mm gap, quick allows them to be separated easily. You are to iron the top surfaces and they turn out fairly well on that suitable. They’re designed to be mounted just off the surface of the wall, so one pretty side is fine.
Good info… here’s my temp tower ranging from 250 to 280… Best quality of the options is 250, but it got worse moving away from 250. I’m going to adjust the scale to go from 220 to 260 and see what shows up
That’s exactly it… kinda a challenging one
I’m seeing a lot of comments about the temp is too low. I’ve been printing PETG for YEARS at 230, just fine. Higher temp can help some things, but I’ve printed a half dozen brands with many colors at 230.
As for the stringing, expect some, but you can minimize by keeping travel within the model.
The problem with nesting them on top of another is PETG can have bridging difficulties if the filament isn’t well tuned, setting-wise. So, the issues you are having now make a lot of sense to me.
Good luck getting this sorted out, but I’m still going to say you are likely best to do one at a time as well get that 220-250C temp tower done and use the best level.
Banding in this case is a result of printing a stack of prints with a 0.2mm air gap in between. this print is actually four plates put on top of each other, look at “multi board” on thangs, you’ll see the single boards and the stacks.
So when it fails it does on the.2mm gap between the parts. This is not a material problem.
low temp and adhesion play a role in this as well, sure but this is also a tricky print due to basically printing things on top of things that need to adhere but not really stick to each other, much like part and support structure.
I understand this configuration and stacked printing is a challenge, the print definitely got better as the tempos came up. While stacked printing is neat and novel, i also am coming to the conclusion that the juice might not be worth the squeeze. Long print times seem potentially volatile and it’s pretty easy to pull the part and hit “print again”. Perhaps I’ll change my mind down the road, but at this point, it just adds unnecessary stress.
If you print a part that is a single layer of PLA between your PETG parts instead of an air gap your will have enough support and adhesion to print the next part on top without the air gap and you will be able to easily separate the parts after printing. PETG and PLA do not bond well. You will need to create a part that is 1 layer thick that matches the shape of the top of your part and assign an AMS slot that has PLA filament to that part and place it where the air gap is now.
Now that you know that the source of your problems was stacking the models in order to save time…
Looking back, how much time did you really save?
The OP didn’t say it was a stacked print. That of course radically changes the “problem set”.
Stacking doesn’t save time. Stacking lets you print more objects at once, so you don’t have to be there to clear the build plate and start another print run to get all the objects printed.
If the time required to remove a part and restart the printer isn’t included, printing parts one at a time or all at once doesn’t make a difference. How long it takes to run a print is mostly a function of the sum of the print times of all the objects regardless of the order in which they’re printed.
If you use the PETG from Bambu the settings are all there and it works much better than ALL of the cheeper filaments. I learned the hard way and now ONLY buy Bambu filament.
Hi @Chris1974
The pursuit of optimal efficiency is always “a thing”. Professionally, i own and operate a firearm suppressor company and run CNC mills, mill- turns, and routers daily. In that context, chip control, tool life and breakage, surface finish and many other aspects com into play when developing machining programs. It takes more time to develop a machine cycle that does 20 identical parts at a time, but to be able to hit “cycle start” and walk away for 8 hours is awesome. Automating CNC operations is the holy grail of making your machines work off their cost, but one tool breaking our slipping out of spec reverses that payoff quickly.
In response to your question, i learned that stacked printing results in cycle times that are almost too long, which is what i was eluding to in an earlier comment. I think you’re inadvertently correct… stacked printing doesn’t save much time, but not because stacking models caused problems (much like @RocketSled pointed out) . On the contrary, one i figured out some temperature stuff, it worked relatively well. I don’t like tying up my machine for that long, but it works, and if i were to be leaving for a couple days, I’ll probably do it again to get the most out of the machine. But on a normal day all you gain is not needing to clear parts in between cycles and not waiting for the bed preheat/ automated bed labeling, etc.
I do appreciate your point, though, and recognize the logic in your statement. Thanks for your time and input.
Cheers!
This is something i want to try, but haven’t dug into using the AMS to run multiple filaments in a single print, yet. I agree that this may be a better way to achieve quality stack printed parts.
Looks like WETG to me, do you print from a drier?
Also petg is always stringy on the inside of a hollow cylinder. You are making a micro oven with the nozzle and heated bed. I cannot find a solution for this. I made some knobs once and no matter what I could not get the hollow interior clean.
Hi Stinger, in my opinion, the temperature does not affect your print, and also the settings are not at fault in your case. Your problem is the LACK OF EXTRUSION. If it’s generated by a CLOGGED NOZZLE or a problem with AMS, or the EXTRUDER!
I do not know! Somehow, not enough filament passes through the printer nozzle.
Clean or replace your NOZZLE, dry your filament … I recommend to try with other brand …
Go with Bambu Slicer Basic Settings … and see what happen!
Cheers!
I think the problem with PETG printing is the nozzle, which is steel and not brass. There are some temperature differences. Brass has better heat stability than steel noses. That’s why PETG prints come out poorly.
For example, my prusa printer, if I use a hardened steel nose, the print tends to come out poorly. However, everything prints well with a brass nose. I believe that the problem is in the metals and not in the software issue.
My x1 carbon prints pla, abs, tpu and tpe and carbon filaments very well. But PETG filament really doesn’t work. But is PETG filament so important?
