Unfortunately the ribbon cable for the filament sensor is glued in place!!!
So you can’t disconnect it easily.
I unscrewed it from the extruder assembly and left it dangling by the cable whilst I went and stripped the extruder assembly down and cleared the clog
Put it all back together but the printer is now permanently telling me to remove the filament from the spool holder, and showing in Bambu Studio as having filament loaded
The extruder and filament sensor are completely clear.
I unpicked the glue which took ages and is virtually impossible without further damaging the ribbon cable, checked the inside is empty, checked everything works as it should, reassembled - still permanently says there is filament loaded
Had to pay £16 for a replacement sensor and gonna have to wait 3-5 days, which is great because I have a small ebay business and now won’t be able to print any orders.
I don’t know why the ribbon cable is glued in place, maybe for extra shipping protection, but it’s not mentioned on the guide - so if/when you need to clear an extruder clog I’ll warn you that you WILL be swearing! A lot!
So annoying, have maybe 300+ PETG and PETG/CF prints on my P1S with hardened steel extruder and nozzle - never had a single clog or any issues whatsoever.
On moving parts like extruders that vibrate a lot and accelerate/decelerate fast, things can need to be secured so they don’t flex enough to fatigue and break.
Don’t know that’s why they glue the ribbon but when I’ve been in my X1C extruder it was impressive all the stuff in place to secure pretty short bits of wire.
If they’re doing the same as the P1S as far as securing the extruder it’s a fine double sided tape that is on the back of the ribbon cable. If you ever replace one you’ve seen it.
That or the silicone glue. Neither should harm the ribbon if moved carefully.
It’s the hot glue stuff that they use on electrical connectors - but it’s directly across the tab that you lift up to release the connector
That means when you need to remove the extruder to clear a clog you can’t remove the ribbon cable
I like the fact that they do it to stop things rattling loose, but extruder clogs should be fixable without leaving the filament sensor dangling from a delicate ribbon cable.
The glue was almost impossible to remove without damaing the cable
Obviously it’s just my opinion but none of the hotend components on the P1S were glued, the cables were easy to remove. At least the online guide should explain.
That being said the quick remove hotend is amazing lol
I agree, it can be difficult. It’s also near impossible to redo. I would guess the replacement will have a backing you need to remove if you wish to stick it down. It’ll be up to you to stick it down. I don’t know about the P2S but there’s little reason to stress it on the P1S. Just remember when you access it again.
Can’t speak to most of it, but the hot glue on connectors is kinda normal for a wide range of electronics. Use flush cut clippers as pliers, rotate your hand when gripped to peel/lever it off. Spritz of isopropyl if you are feeling brave about what’s near it.
Yep. Sadly. Just used some of my UV glue to lock down a filter and a cap inside my Boston speaker for my television, because the hot-glue broke free.
I do woodwork and did an entire roof of what could pass for a LARGE dollhouse. Rather ornate beast, it is. The hot summer temps de-laminated a good share of the shakes.
Heat is far from being the friend of hot glued items.
This happened to me to! However, my ribbon cable is not glued and in this case i wish it was because I removed it from the extruder and let it hang there while cleaning all the PETG out of the extruder and now im getting a “Cutter error”. I made a support ticket and BAMBU LABS says my Hall Sensor is likely shot! so needless to say, Ive listed all my PETG for sale. that crap will never enter my printer again!
Ive printed with many types of filament like PLA (ALL Kinds), ASA, ABS, ABS-GF and ive NEVER had this issue! Everyone tells my that the filament needed to be dried… No it didn’t, It was already dry and fresh out of the stock sealed package, with my AMS humidity level at 4% (Not an Error)
In the AMS you likely have desiccant packs if the older style AMS. You’ll never get an accurate reading on filament moisture level in any enclosure that has desiccant in it.
The only way to get an accurate read on filament moisture is to put it in an enclosure that isn’t much larger than the spool with only a hygrometer in there to read humidity level.
Desiccant overpowers filament moisture. True desiccants have much more capacity to hold water than filament which only acts like a poor desiccant. If the desiccant is dry, the humidity will read low regardless of filament moisture level.
What matters is you got good prints but your filament moisture is pretty much guaranteed to not be that low. Filament holds onto moisture and doesn’t like to give much up unless it’s heated.
I couple of weeks ago I pulled a recently-purchased fresh spool of Bambu Basic Black PLA out of its bag and put it in a poly cereal box with a hygrometer (and no desiccant) as it waited its turn in the dryer. I was a bit surprised - it was reading 50% RH. I can tell you that spool would not have printed well as it was. After drying, this is how that spool printed. And after drying the same poly cereal box test pegged the hygrometer at 10% - the lowest level it could read. Actual water content was lower than that.
But trying to read filament moisture in an AMS does not work. The humidity level in the AMS is to keep tabs on how likely your filament will stay at whatever dryness level it’s at. If it’s dry in the AMS your filament won’t pick up much water if any. If it’s wet is a different story. A wet AMS can hydrate filament for you. That’s why it’s important to keep the AMS dry.
I just got a roll of PLA out of the vacuum bag and it was so moisture laden it would not bend (snapped). Dried it, and it bent, then went back to brittle again. Inasmuch as I’ve not had any problem with the many other rolls of PLA and even PETG, all of which sat side by side in the Automatic Material System, it appears I need to pay close attention to who I buy from, which brands, and check moisture content before relying on a give filament for a critical print.
