I’m new to Bambu and especially new to ABS printing. I got one of those new Combo p2s printers. I tried printing a spool from makerworld, the remix of the bambu spool by dtr4in.
I have found that where the grid section of the spool meets the outer solid edge, if i put a small amount of pressure on it sideways, i can hear the plastic breaking or tearing. This hasn’t affected the operation of the spools, but I’m wondering if its something I have done or is it just the Design?
One thing I did check is the first spool I printed doesn’t have the breaking tearing sound.
I used the standard settings in Bambu studio with no changes. Do I have to fine tune the bambu labs filament??
Can you check if the position of the spool on the plate where the edge breaks away from the grid, was near the side cooling fan? And if the fan was blowing during printing? I’m sure you used the ABS profile, with the fan circulating internally to keep temperature of the chamber up. But it shouldn’t run higher then 30%
I can confirm that all areas of the spool with the grid pattern I have heard the snapping and the grid pulls away from outer most solid piece of the spool. I did not let the bed heat up before starting to print. Yes I can confirm I used the ABS profile so whatever is standard on that is what the fan settings were at, no idea if it was running etc, i just let it do its thing.
Is there a print file that I can use to test that my prints in ABS are strong, and that it may be a design issue with the grid on these spools I printed. They are still completely usable too.
ChatGPT has indicated I should up the wall count to make the joint between the grid and outer edge stronger.
Well for ABS, you really need to let both heatbed and chamber get up to temperature before the print starts. Before hitting the print button, you can set the printbed to “home” position and set the temp to 110 degrees. Set the side fan to heating mode and at around 30%. This will heat up the chamber to about 50 degrees or more in about half an hour. And then send the print command. For me this worked extremely well for some extremely thin, fragile ABS parts. They printed perfect!
Try preheating the closed chamber with maximum bed temperature for at least twenty minutes before starting the print. If the spool is still weak, consider it a design flaw and find a different model. The spool model included with my printer has solid sides, no grid.
Increasing wall count only works if there is room for more walls, and the wall is the weak point. The grid of most models I see on Makerworld is actually sparse infill, created with one or two lines of filament between cells, and just a single line attaching the grid to the rim. Increasing wall loops will not change this.
This .3mf specified two wall loops, I increased it to four with no change in the grid or its attachment:
OrcaSlicer does have a Multiline setting for sparse infill which might increase strength ( with smaller openings) if chamber temperature is not the main issue.
Thank you both for your replies. Next time I do a spool I will preheat the printer at 110c for 20 -30 minutes and then print. Thanks for helping out a noob
I tried this, but it seems like after an idle period, the printer just turns the printbed heater off, which is mildy inconvenient. I currently have a spaghettification problem when printing eSun ABS+ (on the external spool not in the AMS haha). Are there any settings I should dial in to get some better results?
