I’ve been printing since 2019 but always shied away from TPU. I’m ready to give it a go. I’d love to know your favorite brand and settings, any other advice. I know I’m going to mount my spool right above the toolhead and let the filament drop straight down. I’m thinking maybe I should get an AMS HT (I don’t have an AMS) and run it in dry mode while simultaneously serving as a spool holder. Any thoughts?
I have had really good luck with Bambu TPU for AMS running from the HT though that TPU is on the harder side. For softer TPU, would definitely dry for at least 4 hours (even if new from package) and keep drying. Also, put some glue on the plate. What are you planning to print?
Had some 4 year old “REAL” TPU leftover from an old project. After drying it in my AMS-HT it printed very well, using the stock “Generic TPU filament” settings. (No glue needed…) I wouldn’t print it during drying, since I think “warm” TPU filament might be too soft for the extruder.
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Thanks for the tips. I’m glad to hear that you used the HT and that it worked for you.
Actually, I haven’t decided what to print, but I’m eager to do it. This was my biggest inspiration:
I used it to print a protective sleeve for a remote control and a small cap for a sensor in my car.
I believe there is one catch with TPU: the smaller the contact area on the print bed, the harder it is to remove. Be patient and let it (and the plate) cool down complete before removing it.
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The most important thing is to read through the Bambu website - trust me! It tells you exactly which type of adhesive to use for better removal and in which cases you shouldn’t use it. They also explain which print nozzle and printer plate to use.
If you use the wrong combination, the stuff sticks so firmly that, if you’re unlucky, you’ll break the printer plate. You also have to be careful which nozzle you need; some require a 0.6
TPU 85A / TPU 90A
TPU for AMS
TPU 95A HF
Buy an AMS HT if you have a use case for an AMS HT. For me TPU would not fall into that category. My initial drying time is in the 8-12 hr range but I dry everything by weight. After some months of dry storage I’ll dry again. My prints with any TPU type are generally less than 6 hr and I’ve never see any stringing when fed from an external spool.
Use a smooth PEI plate. Do a few small test prints and see how strong of a bond you are getting. If it’s a bitch to remove use glue for easier release.
I’m using Overture TPU 95A for gaskets, grommets and protecter(caps, vise jaws etc). I dowloaded the print profile from Overture website and it prints great.
Siraya Tech TPU 64D for small motor mounts, spacers and feet. Here again I downloaded the print profile from Siraya Tech website and I did not need any adjustments.
BBL TPU for AMS is great for duster collector fittings and feather boards around the shop. I also started using it for fitted tool inserts in rugged( Pelican ) cases. It prints like PLA.
If the TPU print sticks to the plate too well, put it in the freezer for about 10 minutes. The print will fall off.
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I have been printing with TPU for awhile and love its flexibility - in contrast with the stiffness of other filaments. I print using a filament dryer as a spool holder, with the addition of desiccant packets to keep it dry.
I have been using Overture and Bambu Lab TPU 95a and printing on the standard Bambu textured PEI plate. I have never had a problem with the filament sticking to the plate.
A characteristic of TPU is that if multiple objects are being printed at the same time, it will string rather heavily going from one object to another. Thus it prints much better if only one object is being printed at a time.
An interesting characteristic of TPU is when it is printed in vase mode. It is so thin and flexible, so delicate looking, yet considerably strong. When printed solid or with dense infill it takes the characteristic of a hard rubber, such as used in car tires.
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