How bad is it really keeping the chamber clean. This would be for a H2D if that matter. Withl the lazer upgrade at 300 off the debating on picking one up. Would see light to moderate use for cutting end engraving most likely some metal rock and wood and leather. My concern is all the warnings everybody’s giving on it’ll destroy the bed chamber etc. also do they have the rotary attachment out yet and if no does anyone know if that is actually going to come out or there’s just no information? We would be sticking with the 10 watt laser as everybody says the 40 watt is overkill inside of the H2D
Engraving/cutting wood produces a lot of smoke, and it settles everywhere, making it a lot of work to clean up, especially since the smell is almost impossible to get rid of.
My last laser cutting job was weeks ago, and the printer still smells like burnt wood even though I’ve cleaned it many times – it just gets trapped in every nook and cranny.
If you want to cut metal or stone – forget it, you need more laser power for that.
Rotary attachment: there’s no date yet, no information on whether or when it will be available.
10/40W: it depends on the thickness of the material you want to cut.
I just don’t know how you arrived at a price of 300; the upgrade kit with the laser costs €541 here in Europe.
The laser won’t work without all the protective shields, etc.; the firmware checks for that during every calibration.
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Rounding up it’s 300 OFF it’s still 5 and change down from $800. I’m aware it won’t work without the full kit.
I’m aware of 10 watt laser will not cut through stone and steel that would be engraving. Thanks for the time though.
Beginning to think maybe getting a dedicated one would be a better path.
If you’re planning heavy usage of laser cutting I’d go for a dedicated laser, I do cut wood from time to time on mine (and acrylic) and it’s fine, it doesn’t really create much of a mess - I do put the external filter pumping out at max speed though
If it’s ocasional it’s fine I don’t do any particular additional cleaning as I don’t cut often and engraving, which I do the most, generates very little residue
Cleaning needs really depend on how much you use the laser; it will deposit soot and residue inside the machine over time, and there is no way to completely avoid that with any laser setup.
Choosing between 10 W and 40 W also comes down to what you mainly want to do. A lower‑power diode (around 10 W) usually has a smaller spot and is better suited for fine engraving details, while a higher‑power module (around 40 W) is better for thicker or faster cutting but tends to sacrifice some engraving finesse.
If you truly need both very fine engraving and serious cutting, owning both power levels can make sense in theory, but at that point a dedicated standalone laser system is often a more flexible and efficient solution than relying only on the add‑on in a 3D printer.
Same question for me, considering buying a H2C Laser combo next year when there is a sale on it.
I think for us hobby printer/maker the laser function is fine because in my case I would use the laser maybe once a week for some small projects. A dedicated laser machine like an XTool would be too overkill for me. I think if you use the laser once a day → then get a dedicated machine for it but just for some small projects here and there the laser combo is perfect. Also if you engrave a lot the 10W is the better option, 40W is better for cutting thicker materials.
Only etching metals, zero mess. I personally wouldnt cut plastic, wood or leather…Unless you like cleaning. I cleaned my laser edition one time, after etching a coffee cup that was powder coated, Right after the first shipment of printers went out. 40w H2D laser
Printing Abs or asa is probably messier than etching metal.
The only messy pic ive seen was the original one bambu posted that had like 50 hours if wood cutting. Otherwise, im not sure ive even heard someone complain.
I think alot of the original complaining arose after people seeing the price tag. Price cope.
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I have the 10watt laser and have engaved quite a lot of leather key tags for customers, I have engraved on wooden amulets and bamboo pens. Also I have tried rocks, just for the hell of it, work brilliantly. I prefer to engave on metal and I ordered much material from Temu, things I could not get from Bambu.
I don’t exclusivly laser or do heavy wood work. I have the exhaust filter from Bambu attached and it does a awesome job.
I have to say between all the lasering, 3dprinting and cutting vinyl I have not noticed my h2d get any dirtier than my X1’s. It looks nearly the same. It’s possible there is a light coating but honestly I barely need to clean except for the standard routine I carry out on my X1Cs.
Perhaps for those exclusivly lasering wood will notice a big difference, for the average user, no difference.
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Ive cut a good amount of cork and done some etching with my laser. I don’t bother cleaning the machine after and follow the machine maintenance prompts. Had zero issues.
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From what i saw most of the complaining comes from the same place the microplastic whining does. It’s just redditors farming karma.
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My last laser-cutting project was an Advent calendar house from Makerworld, requiring about 13 wooden panels, lots of cutting, and hardly any engraving.
I vented the exhaust out the window and, to be honest, I was afraid someone would call the fire department, it was smoking so badly.
Afterwards, I spent half an hour cleaning the laser plate with hot water, a brush, and dish soap, and there are still resin deposits on it.
And as I already mentioned, my printer still smells like burnt wood weeks later, despite multiple thorough cleanings. The gunk is everywhere.
I’ve been trying to engrave PLA after a print, but for some reason, I’m running into issues with perspectives in Bambu Suite. I try to align my design as best as I can, but it seems to be off, since the bird’s eye camera is at an angle. For cutting, this thing does fantastic! I would recommend, if you can, have your printer near a window so you can vent the smoke outside. If you don’t, their smoke suppression module is pretty decent from what I hear. Having no vent going outside, you’d be in for a stinky session. I did the card cut calibration and I stank up my office lol
I have the 10W version.
I find I get best results by placing what you want to engrave at the center bottom of the bed. I also sometimes mark the object with a white non permanent marker to help with the alignment. Also the level of the bed makes a difference with the perspective on the camera. Try moving it manually up and down a bit.
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