Ford vs Chevy like Bambu vs Brand X

It amazes me the haters of Bambu or those who treat a Bambu machine like a brand x machine(any brand/model) and expect the same results they had before.

Makes me think of the old Ford vs Chevy debate or Brand A vs Brand Y - mine is better than yours! I didn’t have this issue with Brand Y yet you do have new issues with your new brand. It’s inevitable!

There are so many good machines out there and while the Bambu may be a closed system it’s a great working system. Yes, it will have issues once in a while as every brand does.

It would be nice if everybody would just understand that before they go on their rants! Learn, understand, and be openminded before blaming what is most likely a Operator issue :woozy_face:

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And if you have a machine with one of their dual head extruders, changing a fan is like changing the oil in a porsche carrera. Strip it down to the frame, baby!

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I do enjoy European sport cars so all Fords and Chevys are garbage - :joy::joy::joy:. Kidding.

Yeah some frustrating aspects for sure but no matter the machine/brand there is usually something to aggravate us but doesn’t mean it’s a bad machine or bad brand.

Everyone agrees Chevy is better than Ford (except Ford owners). That debate was settled decades ago. They even invented acronyms for Fords; “Found On Road, Dead” and “Fix Or Repair Daily”. Aren’t any of those for Chevy because the bowtie is better. :slight_smile:

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Yet, a few years ago when the auto industry was in free fall, it was only Ford that didn’t need a bailout. Ford has often meant “Fastest On Race Day”. The best selling vehicle of all time has long been the Ford Pickup. The Camaro has always played second fiddle to the much more popular and culturally significant Mustang. Just saying.

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I do agree that there is one thing a Mustang is much better at than any other car - crashing in to bystanders when departing a Cars & Coffee meetup. There’s even a well established meme it happens so frequently. Other cars that crash leaving C&Cs are often described as “pulled a Mustang, exiting”. :slight_smile:

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Unless you have one of those engines that eats itself and had to be recalled. Ford may have had recalls, but never to replace the entire engine! LOL Something like 721,000 engines. Had a Snivelrado once, worst truck I ever had, went back to Ford and never looked back, at least its not a Ram that can’t Dodge.

As far as what the OP posted, yeah, you get what you get. Sure there are some machines out there far less expensive and do a decent job, but you also have to learn more in order to use it where the BL prints right out of the box, very short learning curve to get decent prints.

They ALL have their quirks, no machine is perfect, not even the H2D, but having 2 of them, and with only one issue between them that was an AI error and totally missed the blob, it was not a fault of the machine itself. The cause was a loose sock, my fault. My X1C however, the H2’s run circles around it. I just finished printing a litho frame in PETG using PLA rafts. The tree supports were stuck to the part. Its the same exact job I run on the H2 using the same filaments and settings and never had the tree stick to the part as it was being printed. The dual heads also waste a LOT less filament compared to the X1C since it has to purge every time it changes to the raft.

I don’t have experience with any other brand, or slicer, but I also only started doing this in July this year and already put 1500 hours on between the machines. I was looking to get a K2 or 2. I could have bought 2 for what the H2D and X1C cost, with 4 CMS. I decided not to based on a few reviews, and then would need 2 different slicer programs and another bin of spares.

Just things that are to be considered going mutli brand. Show me a machine that can actually do more than an H2D that doesn’t cost 2-3 times as much and consumer grade. Check reviews on different brands and comparisons from those who put the machines through a ringer. Aside from a friend of mine who got me started with 3D who has a P1S, it was reviews and comparisons that led me to the H2D. That has a lot to do with why I bought it more than anything else. Frankly I am VERY impressed with Bambu. I have been buying tools for decades for wood working and let me tell you, if you need anything after 90 days, you are SCREWED. It took me WEEKS to get a Dewault 1/2" drive power ratchet warranted. It just stopped dead. It had to be sent to a service center and repaired. I had to pay shipping! No phone support, no chat support. When I found out that you can open a support ticket with Bambu, I was THRILLED! 40 years working with expensive equipment and this is the first time where I could open a chat box and actually get support on something. I’m 61, been doing crafting for a very long time as a hobby, my real job was in IT, and let me tell you what support for THAT can be like! Yeah, I am very pleased with BL support because I know it can be a LOT worse!

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I started 6 years ago with an ender 3 which was a great machine to learn with. It forced me to learn the basics and understand many of the nuances in 3d printing. Plus the various slicers I could use and learn in - Simplify3D, Cura, Orca, and PrusaSlicer. That led to a CR10 and then 2 years ago my X1C. It was a fun 6 years but do enjoy the ease of the BL system.

I really like the print out of the box aspect you mention. Both X1Cs have been problem free from day 1. While I wish I could do something things the closed system doesn’t allow, I’m glad to have the BL machines!

Considering a resin printer as a next step. For no particular reason other than to keep learning 3d printing and tinkering. But depending what we get in the near future from BL that could change. A hot end tool changer would be awesome. I’d go that route first.

Resin is much better at some things compared to FDM, and that gap will never close. A good resin printer produces parts that look like they were injection molded. They do much lower layer heights, and they have none of the positional repeatability issues that a mechanical gantry driven by belts has.

But… resin printing is messy. There’s a lot more post-processing work you have to do before the part is finished (supports always make contact and leave “zits” that have to be cleaned up). There’s liquid waste you can’t just put down the drain (well, you can, but it would not be a very good thing to be doing). And while resins have gotten a lot stronger, they still struggle to meet the same levels for things like impact resistance that you get from extruded plastic. Resin prints fracture like glass when they break.

I got my first SLA printer in 2015. Currently have a Form3.

Here’s a D&D print I made for my nephew a few years ago. This part is only about 1.5" high. This is after the supports were all ripped off, and the leftover resin has been washed off, and it’s spent a few hours in a post-print UV cure box. But I haven’t removed the zits left over from the supports.

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Try to borrow a resin printer, or use one at a makerspace once before you commit. The whole process is… well, not for me, at least. Messy smelly and clinical, is how i’d describe it…

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Good info and appreciate the feedback. I’m just starting to look into it and one major questions I had were the supports and cleaning after. You confirmed my thoughts - a lot of post clean up.

It’s really just an idea and don’t have a need to do resin. Starting to reconsider :joy: anything I don’t do figurines of any sort which appears to be where they shine.

Regardless a fun hobby and the H2 is also calling. Just waiting to see what comes out during holidays.

Thank you for this. Actually the clinical aspect is in part what is drawing me to it. Just not a big fan of post clean up and see that will be a key aspect to it. FDM fits my needs better also. Thanks!

Monomer resins are extremely hazardous and must be handled carefully to avoid exposure. Many can cause birth defects and cancers. Anyone considering resin printing would be wise to consider the risks and if they feel they can mitigate those adequately before buying in.

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There are resins marketed as non-toxic and low-toxicity. I’ve never used one, but I’ve seen 'em advertised in my feeds.

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Not knowing which resins you are referring to it’s hard to comment on them specifically but this article discusses water soluble and low toxicity monomers and doesn’t come away too impressed at their safety.

Basically it comes down to the chemistry used for cross-linking and it’s pretty much all bad. By definition it has to be reactive and latch onto other molecules. The handy chemistry isn’t that different from attractions and reactions that living things use so there’s crosstalk that can screw things up. Many are classed as mutagens and teratogens which means they can alter DNA and cause birth defects.

Not my life or my printer. I only posted the caution because of some of the hazards are pretty severe. The issue is you could probably lather up with these things with only minor consequences - for now. It’s only with time and circumstances that the really bad effects show up.

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There are some resins for things like Dental and other medical applications that are non-toxic. They have to be because the prints go in to people’s mouths or bodies. The risk of remnant uncured resin cannot be completely eliminated…

See Carima CMYK resin for an example.

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