Full print bed use

P1S need to print full width on bed. The little arm activating the cutter needs to be moved out of the way. It’s a single color print so no cutting. There is a small clip thing I found but it won’t fit my PS1. I have the carbon rods so I’m not sure if they still make this model. I’m still a newbie so if you need any more info I will try and answer. Thanks

Once you accomplish the physical task [no input here, sorry], empty out this setting in the Machine profile on your slicer so that it will let you put the object on the exclusion zone

The wiki also has the part you need to print.

A photo of the model would be helpful; maybe this can be solved by adjusting the orientation? That wasn’t really the question, but I’ll mention it here as a possible alternative:


Both pieces are the same length. While the red one doesn’t fit, the green one can be placed at a 45° angle.

You’ll gain even more space if you print it diagonally:


…and here’s another option you have: Cut them with joints and glue them together later:


Like I said, it depends on your model; I just wanted to throw that out as a bit of inspiration.

Well, it sez here you are just going to have to get a new Jumbo Jet sized printer…

I know, not the answer you wanted…

This is the part but there is no way to mount it in my printer. Thats why I mentioned my carbon rods the rods in the picture provided are stainless steel.

As far as the model goes think toolbox 24mm square and roughly 8mm tall

The (stationary) rails on the side of the of the P/X printers are stainless. They always have been. I just checked mine and it has the cutout in the injection molded part to hold the printed retainer so yours should have it.

Adding to the cut-and-join suggestion, since a 240 mm box is the classic case for it.

Use the Cut tool with connectors on, and pick Dowel rather than Plug for anything load bearing. A separate dowel prints lying down with its layers running along its length, so it doesn’t snap at the seam the way a plug printed vertically does. Start at 0.15 to 0.2 mm tolerance, go to 0.25 if they won’t go together.

Two things that make the seam basically disappear. Run the cut through an existing edge or groove rather than straight across a flat panel, so the line reads as part of the design. And chamfer both edges of the cut face 0.3 to 0.5 mm, otherwise elephant foot holds the two halves apart and you get a visible gap no matter how good the fit is.

Same slot advice as above if you use two pins.