Ive been printing with ABS exclusively and the X2D has the internal heater option which activates for ABS prints. I figured this would help my ABS prints but unfortunately. I’ve been running into some issues. It only happens on very tall prints and on the last inch or two of the top of the print. Im wondering if it has something to do with the left recirculating heater fan blowing on parts and creating heat differences so it warps. Im further convinced its the fan due to the fact that i printed 2 tall parts and the one closer to the left side warped while the one farther away didnt.
I dont have this issue on my x1c.
First picture is supposed to be straight. its a little hard to see but its warped to the left. The 2nd/3rd pictures are supposed to be straight angles, not that wave.
Heater does help, that’s for sure. However, having heater doesn’t mean automatically that ABS and ASA prints are automagically not warping at all. They still do warp.
You know where ABS/ASA doesn’t warp? In industrial printers where chamber temp is 90C with a slow and controlled multi-hour cooldown.
Are you able to share the .3MF file? We can take a loot and potentially point out at some slicing flaws.
EDIT: Welcome to the forum. 
Ill post a 3mf but its weird to me that i have 4000 hours on my non heated X1C and never had a single ABS warpage issue of this magnitude.
I agree, it does look strange. Maybe kinematic-level bad of strange.
You can try a diffuser/deflector so the air is not blowing directly on the part.
Already have one of those made and installed. First pic happened after that.
Oh Ghod…
Are you sure you can print THIS on X1? I have doubts to be honest.
Check your lead screws at lowest points, make sure there is nothing that can obstruct the print, considering that it happens at almost max Z height. Buuut… my personal opinion. I’d say tough luck to that print in ABS or ASA. Warping and material shrinking makes it a random print that may work or fail. If you designed this file - I would highly suggest to split it in half.
i have to cut off the very top on the x1 but no height issue on the x2d. I’ve printed 8 of those(its part of a cosplay shield) in a row on the x1 with zero issues. You can look at this one too if you want to see the warping on the other project.
testmf.3mf (140.7 KB)
There is similar topic in the H2 Series section. Seems like the active fans are causing sometimes more harm then help. Basically when the print go down below the FANs suction point, they start to cool the details too much. So for tall objects it start to be problematic.
Maybe you can set some walls on the sides, or try to disable the fans below some position of the bed. Or slow them down a lot. I think there was some examples with G code.
This is why good engineering design can not be made with get p1, get some cheap melting plastic and few cheap fans with sleeve bearings, some heater, few switches and some code. Then call it engineering printer flag ship. Then we start printing reflectors, deflectors and write G code ye ye. To eventually make it work. But from the other side like my self, you did not spend 1500-2000$ for the H2 Series.
This printer need to be striped off from this cheap accessories, proper cooling/heating design to be made, for very slow and gentle air flow. As someone else noted this fans are blowing on the side the way it will tear parts from the bed 
. But the fan has not only exhaust, it has also suction side and it also move air. And we got 3x suction sections next to the printed item.
On the other side I am not sure that deflectors are good idea when printing in heating mode. As the hot air will be blown directly to the extruder. For cooling they are good idea, but for heating I am not sure.
I am wondering if someone from Bambu HW design team ever used furnace/oven with a fan…
