I used glue stick for multiple items, otherwise they failed (cool plate). When I run out off original, I used another: bad idea, bed was ruined because the glue destroyed the PEI.
Bambu said, they don’t give guarantee for NOT using glue.
I bought high temperature plate and original liquid glue, works perfect.
I know people having textured plate where they never use glue.
If you want smooth bottom, use high temperature and glue, if you don’t care, use textured plate
FYP, you’re welcome.
Could I use my Prusa smooth plate on the X1C?
Almost sure that’s a no-go for full functionality. I doubt it even fits because BBL’s plate is an odd size, but if it did, does the Prusa plate have an area for the nozzle wipe on the back? If not, you’d need to modify g-code (I’m assuming its in the start code) and then I guess if you are willing to just run a print it should work.
You have me at a disadvantage because I have not yet bought the X1C. It wipes the nozzle on the build plate? My Prusa does that in the front, but the plate is just flat and held with magnets, so you might be able to place it where you wanted on the X1C bed. I only asked because my Prusa adheres so well and never needs glue. I wonder if the X1C needs help because of the speed with which it is laying down the first layer.
Yeah, Bambu printers do a side to side wipe on the rear of the build plate to remove any oozing before bed leveling. Its pretty aggressive too. It will take the surface off that piece of the plate and is supposed to do that.
Don’t worry about adhesion… the problem with Bambu printers is normally too much adhesion. Unfortunately, without the ability to tune the Z offset height (locked down OS), we are stuck with too much adhesion (of course bed temps play a part too).
I meant high temperature bed
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You can disable that in the G-code if you want to. I print on glass, so I had to disable it.
Bed adhesion is the same as with any other FDM printer. It comes down to bed type, filament type and temperature. The printer itself has little to nothing to do with it aside from user settings. Whatever you did on the Prusa you can also do on the X1C.
I find the X1C to be considerably louder than my Ender 3 with the door open but about the same with the door closed. The fans are pretty loud, enough so that there are several threads here about replacing the fans with quieter ones.
Someone said the Z offset cannot be adjusted. This may be true in Bambu slicer but the Orca Slicer lets you adjust that if desired. I set mine to -0.4mm on the BBL textured plate for first layer and have never had adhesion issues. I’ve never used glue.
Finally the ultimate key is to SLOW DOWN the first layer. I always limit the first layer to 30-50mm/s depending on the print size. I believe the BBL profiles all do this by default but not positive.
I switched to the heated bed plate. I have not used glue stick since.
I use the liquid glue from bambu labs went thru at least 5 rolls of filament and used maybe a 1/4 of the glue puts on a very thin layer
on the cool sheet I just upped the temp to 55Deg for PLA/PLA+ and have never needed to use the glue stick.
upped it on the high temp side by 5deg over the recomended temp for what ever high temp filament I was using and never had to use the glue stick.
Never had a print not stick to the bed and they release easy once cooled down…
I ordered an X1C. It arrived last night. Today I had two failed prints with PETG not sticking to the Engineering Plate (with no glue). On the third print, the head clogged. Now I’m dead in the water because the four-wire plug fractured during disassembly of the print head and all the wires came loose.
I should have been content with the Prusa.
Check in on a return, you are obviously not someone that wants to leave the Prusa family. Worse case scenario, you can sell it for a few hundred dollars loss.
It seems a little extreme to give up so quickly. But it’s also disappointing to have a head clog on the third print.
Indeed. And clogs are usually caused by user error. It’s part of the 3D printing process.
I didn’t want to point fingers, but all three issues encountered were very likely organic interface error.
@ BD489, it sucks to have a new broken printer. No dispute there. It sounds like you have broken the fan connector. You may be able to repair it, but if not, the new fan is available on the website.
As far as the problems you are having with the print, I’d start out with cleaning the plate. All PETG adherence issues that I have had, are almost exclusively from fingerprints on the bed.
Clogs can occur for a number of reasons, could be left over filament that is different (Nylon, PLA, ABS, etc.) in the nozzle getting mixed up with the PETG. I would start with a cold pull (which is really a warm pull) and see if you can free it. If not, I believe it comes with two hot ends (at least the P1P did). May be time to install that.
No insult take from this organic interface. But I’m not a novice. I ran a Robo for years and cleaned several head clogs. I ran a Prusa for 2 years with never a head clog. I ran two prints on a brand new Bambu and the head clogged on the third. I’m not without experience and some savvy, but not yet on the Bambu. It seems pretty finicky if the head will clog on the 3rd print using filaments I have used for years. But, it was Prusa PETG.
I’m not worried about getting new parts, just disappointed that my eagerly anticipated new printer proved so “fragile”, and that It will be many days before I can try again.
The plate was perfectly cleaned, a procedure I know well from the Prusa bed. I have run many kilos of PETG on the Prusa without any adhesion problems.
There was no left over filament of a different type in the Bambu head. It clogged on the 3rd print of a new machine.
The filament is not stuck in the hot end, it seems to be stuck in the extruder. I have removed the hot end, and the filament is still stuck. I can’t remove the extruder because I can’t remove the ptfe tube, because the filament is inside of it and the ptfe tube will not release.
You have to depress the base of the PTFE tube (as shown here) to release it. More details regarding clogged extruders can be found here.
Perhaps, but you are a novice when it comes to Bambu Lab printers (like we all were at some point). A lot of the issues you mentioned are covered in the Bambu Lab Wiki. If you’re planning on keeping your Bambu Lab printer, it would be a good idea to dive into that wiki and really learn how your new printer works.
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People keep saying that. I know that. What you don’t understand is that the tube would NOT release when the collar was depressed. This is because the whole length of tubing from the AMS to the extruder was filled with a stuck filament. The enclosed filament prevents the tubing from backing out of any of the connectors. To remove the tube, I had to cut the tube (and filament) on the back of the printer. After the filament was free, the tube on the extruder came off easily.
There is a ton of stuff to learn about the Bambu. I look forward to learning it. But having the hot end clog on the third print of a brand new printer seems like a problem.