Any tips or hints on what’s going on with the corners of this print? It seems like mostly just this one roll of filament. It was dried and sitting in my AMS that’s only about 10% humidity. I’m guessing there might be maintenance I’ve got to do since I’m already about 115hrs on my X1C?
Thank you.
Dry the filament.
Doesn’t matter what the AMS says, it’s dessicant and reacts slowly. One wet spool would take a little bit to register.
You can also tune it by running flow calibrations, but I’ll bet it’s wet.
Looks like classic corner warping to me. Suggest cleaning the bed with dish soap and hot water. Check that the Aux fan isn’t blasting the part on layer 3.
Wait!!! You forgot this part! 
Then unfortunately it really wasn’t dried. Filaments attract and adsorb water because there are sites where water likes to stick to it. That bit about “likes to stick” means there is an energy barrier you need to get over to get the water to let go and be removed. To actually dry filament with any speed takes heat to overcome that barrier. Filament can be dried in a dry box at room temperature but it’s really slow and not practical.
Those print defects look like they could be “wet” filament and/or a contaminated build plate. I’d suggest a careful cleaning like what Jon said, but if that doesn’t fix it, dry your filament.
Filament fresh from the factory and fresh from the shipping bag can still be “wet”. If you don’t have a filament dryer, you can sort of dry filament on a heated build plate since heat lowers relative humidity. If it’s moisture causing your issue that might get you back into good print territory.
You could also try other filament and see if it behaves the same way. If you can get good first layers with different filament that could point to water in the original spool.
Thank you all for the replies.
I thought I was being cautious enough and taking the advice some of you had given in my first post. I did wash the build plate with Dawn before starting the print, but maybe I accidentally touched it. I also bought and ran the spools through my 4 roll Sunlu dryer, but I guess not long enough. I’ll shoot for longer next time.
I have printed a number of the spool desiccant holders in hopes that it’ll help keep them dryer, and I plan to print more. Is there a dryer that spins the spools slowly while drying? Or does it not really matter?
Drying filament is its own topic. Regular filament dryers can only dry filament so much because the ambient humidity sets a lower limit on what you can dry to. There’s lots of clips on MW to prop the doors on dryers open to help exchange air to speed up drying but ambient humidity sets a hard limit. If your ambient humidity is low that may be all you need. If it’s high, it may not be enough to dry filament in a standard dryer.
Desiccant is a double edge sword. If it’s fresh and dry, storing filament with desiccant can help keep it dry. If you have a pack of desiccant that has been sitting out or has otherwise absorbed enough moisture, what it becomes instead is a moisture source that can add water to a spool of filament. There’s good articles online about using silica gel to humidify display cases and other storage. Unfortunately for our purposes humidifying materials works great.
When drying filament in a filament dryer, be sure to note the humidity before you remove a spool. The humidity in the dryer when you end drying a spool tells you how well you did. I dry PLA to at least 22-24% and PETG HF to 19-20% and get great results like that. If you don’t get to humidities that low in your dryer, that could point to high moisture content.
Thank you.
I do happen to live in a humid climate (Louisiana) but have noted the dryer getting into low 20s after/while drying. I have mixed both clear and orange/green beads so I can have an indicator on top of using hygrometers. One in my AMS (along with the built in), one in the container of desiccant, and lastly, three one built into the dryer. The one in my AMS, shows 10%, and the built in shows 1 currently. I’m also currently only printing in PLA and my plan now is to dry filaments overnight when I plan to use them. Especially PETG and others that like to soak up water.
I do think i should have died it a bit more, but also I think it might have been the AUX fan. Is there a way to look back at the print to see if it was being used? Or would it be in the slice?
Not sure about the aux fan. I know some have had issues with it.
Desiccant can hide problems, though. With additional desiccant in your AMS it’s hard to know if low humidity is due to filament or desiccant. I wouldn’t put silica gel desiccant in your filament dryer unless you are putting fresh or freshly regenerated desiccant and keeping it dry. Heat is how you regenerate desiccant and that means giving off water.
Not sure what’s up in light of the added information.
Any time I had the AUX fan turned on, and what I was printing was flat, your picture is exactly how it turned out. I have it turned completely off in my filament profiles now, I think that might be your problem.
Awesome! Thank you for the reply. I’ll try this change and see what happens. That said, what does it actually do and in which scenarios should I use it?
You’re welcome. The only time I’ve ever really seen them needed is when people are printing REALLY fast, like speed benchy fast. When you’re doing that you need the filament to harden as fast as possible because you’re already on to the next layer. Even though the Bambus print super fast I still don’t think that Aux fan is ever really needed and it always either causes that top layer in your picture or sometimes the corners to warp off the build plate.
Now it’s time.
TIME! The words of AVE after opening a package with a mini chainsaw. IYKYK 
