H2 Cutter Stoppers are so unnecessarily loud and annoying

Love my H2D but the two filament cutter stoppers that toolhead triggers when homing are so unnecessarily loud and annoying! What a miss on the design there, the loudest part of the printer by far.

Have a 3 day TPU/PLA print and toolhead homing for extruder change and triggering that obnoxious click of the cutter stoppers was driving me crazy, so I just took out the screws and removed them for the print.

Anyone seen or has ideas for a more painless solution?

Something to damper the click sound maybe?
Some gcode to stop toolhead moving to the back-right before/after extruder change? (why does it have to go there anyway? it changes extruder near the chute!)

I have nightmares with that click sound now.

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Well you could remove all filament changes and never have a filament change. I hear Elegoo has a new printer.
Mine is around the corner and I can’t say I hear the cutter.

I’m talking about these BTW: Filament Cutter Stopper | Bambu Lab US Store not the actual cutters, these flappers

The question has been asked on Reddit, but to put it bluntly: there is no solution, yet - or to be more precise: Maybe there are solutions, but no one has posted them yet.

You probably mean this noise?

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Yeah. They clack like a cheap pair of maracas whenever the printhead moves to the back of the build chamber, and again when it moves forward. And I agree, it’s a miss on the part of the designers, given how quiet the machine is, otherwise.

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yeah, so unnecessary. Would be a nice challenge to design something a lot more quiet, I was hoping someone has done already.

Found the Reddit thread about it: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1kvus80/h2d_filament_cutter_stopper_noise_normal/

even made my wife complain about my 3D printing

exactly why I am here posting this :sweat_smile:

@BambuLab can you please have one of your smart engineers design a quiet version of this and post it on MakerWorld (doesn’t have to be a “official” model), so our spouses stop complaining about the noise and we can print TPU shoes overnight? :slight_smile: plz and thank you!

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There is a solution and I even made a guide unfortunately since I’m a new member to this forum it won’t let me post images or links. Will post guide as soon as I’m able.

Solved // Solution guide. Now the loudest part is the AMS unloading filament!

Remove spring and ball, replace with magnets. Credit goes to this post https://www.facebook.com/groups/603696475392327/posts/921169733644998/

Guide is for the Left Stopper Cutter on H2C (change location of one 3x1mm magnet for right side stopper), similar for H2D - H2S reassembly may be different. As always turn off and unplug your printer. Not responsible for damage, injury, warranty issues, etc.

Tools with need 2 and 1.5 hex bits, super glue and a 3mm hand drill. I used Bambu lab one Hand Drill Kit | Bambu Lab US Store

Parts 2 3x1mm magnet and 1 4x5mm magnet (stack 2 4x2mm plus 4x1mm or stack 5 4x1mm magnets) per stopper. I used 390PCS Small Strong Magnets in 6 Different Sizes,Neodymium Disc Magnets Heavy Duty,Rare Earth Magnet Small Round Magnet for Industrial: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Install magnets and check if they are flush and polarity are correct before using glue. Install the 3x1mm magnets using 3mm hand drill, go slowly the plastic is thin and can easily drill right through. Drill a little at a time and repeatedly check for flushness.

Reassembly for H2C differs from official guide to prevent over travel with magnet mod, see “Flush” Picture. Official reassembly guide half way down page H2 Series printer filament cutter stopper replacement and tooth jumping repair guide | Bambu Lab Wiki

Install stoppers back into printer, while printer is off and unplugged move tool head back and forward to check function of stoppers.

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May try this, but will buy a new one and modify it while it’s out. Then I can reverse it if I choose. Thank you.

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holy â– â– â– â–  that would be bonkers, thanks a lot

One thing I noticed: after you run the machine like any other, after a few days you don’t even notice this sound… All machines make sounds, sometimes they are new sounds, and stand out a bit.

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Very nice and detailed description. Could almost go directly into the wiki.

But as @Deafcat22 already mentioned. It’s a sound you get used to. I only hear it, if I focus on it.

It’s just like the first time sleeping with a mechanical alarm clock next to your bed. At start, the sound seems incredibly loud in your opinion, until you sleep 2 days with it, and you don’t hear it anymore.

Now onto the AMS then :winking_face_with_tongue:

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With H2C and multi color it’s going to be super annoying :slight_smile:

The magnets is a great idea and well explained, thank you! :+1:

I did something different and I’m not sure it’s not subjective (my hearing is not the best…) but I think it has reduced the noise without too much rework. I think I will try the magnets just for the fun of it and because I like it and if it reduces the noise further, I’ll be glad.

Here’s what I did as apart from the ball I felt the noise was amplified by its surroundings and also by the stopper slider hitting the screw at full travel.

  1. I replaced the plastic ball (4mm dia.) by a metal ball from a roller/skateboard (608) bearing (3.9mm dia.). I did not take a photo of it installed but you get the idea
  2. I applied foam tape (1mm thick) in several locations

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Honestly the entire design seems very very overly complicated as if they kept adding features & revisions to the original and ended up with this odd mechanism which the db. levels weren’t thought of lol.

Honestly to dampen the sound I was going to simply print a TPU gear instead which should withstand the wear & tear on an H2S that is. it’s a WIP and only for me.

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Thanks! I made the mod and it makes a huge difference.

One mod I made though is to replace the 3x1mm magnets by 3X2mm as I felt 3x1mm did not provide enough magnetic force.

This can’t be done will a drill bit but I used a end mill to do it. You have to be very careful of course to avoid going through on the end hole and even with the end mill you cannot really go deeper than 1.7/1.8mm which would require after installation and the glue has set to file a little bit the end of the magnet to make it run around without catching anything. I does not really need to be flush as there is some clearance between the rotating and the stationary part but I did it anyway to make sure.

Also, I did not understand the requirement for modifying the travel of the smaller rack unless I missed something. It didn’t work for me so I went back to the original protrusion on this rack, may be the stronger magnetic force is helping.

Similar if you have a house next to a railway line.
Excuse me, but where do you have this printer that bothers you so much? 
I was a ship's mechanical engineer and to me that printer sound is like a clock ticking. Just kidding.