I’ve had my h2c and like always, I’m impressed with Bambu profiles for the .4 nozzle. Except with the holes in top layer overlap.
As with my previous x1c, the .6 nozzle profiles have some to be desired. Going to start fine tuning these in the weeks to come.
Does anyone else be have special ingredients they found while tuning they’re.6 and or .8 nozzles? I enjoy tuning myself, but also like saving time. I also know all about the calibration in the slicer. I spent years with Orca.
Thanks, Cody
I’ve seen the same — .4 nozzles are usually great, but top layer holes need some flow/overlap tweaks. For .6 and .8, I adjust speed, retraction, and temperature a bit, and it helps a lot. Keeping small tried-and-true profiles saves time.
Temp, flow, PA, retraction, all are part of the standard calibration everyone should always be doing. These, in my opinion are mainly filament tuning items.
I’m looking more at the print profiles or processes. Like how changing top layer to monoatonic vs monotonic line and upping the overlapping value. Increasing top flow 3% or more. These were for filling in holes in .4 processes.
I think the Bambu “tried and true” profiles were only for .4 nozzles only. The .6 and .8 on my x1c as well as h2c are far from clean. Just a starting point.
I have testet the following nozzles on my H2S:
0.2
0.4
0.4 HF
0.6
0.8 HF
Every stock profile printed absolutely great. Not a single process setting needed adjustment for normal printing, looks almost injection molded. Even the 0.8mm profile for the 0.24mm layer height was absolutely stunning.
Settings such as rectilinear top and bottom surfaces is best for strength, monotonic can often look better but not be as strong. This is not something you dial in from the stock profiles. You change these settings if you want a different print characteristic better suited to your needs, for that particular print.
For instance, when printing brackets, bolts and nuts I use rectilinear. When printing a shelf that will only support a little bit of weight, I use monotonic. This is not dialing in the settings, this is changing some settings based on the need for strength, cosmetics and personal preference, for that specific model.
The acceleration, speeds, overhang and bridge speed does not need adjusting at all from the stock profiles in my experience. There is however simple tricks to get better wall surface finish, like “Avoid crossing walls”. This can reduce the number of artefacts on walls that can appear from lots of travel movements. But this will also increase print time. So it’s a tradeoff. Or if you are going to print a model with an exceptional number of bridges and don’t want to use supports, you can adjust bridge flow to 0.9, or even 0.8 if the bridges are long. But that too has tradeoffs, like thinner lines making it weaker and dimensionally incorrect.
TL;DR: Most of Bambu’s default settings is already dialed in very good. Other settings has tradeoffs that will have to be adjusted for the printed models use case.