I’m setting up my 3D printing area and could use some advice on the best layout. My goal is to keep the tubing as short as possible while maintaining clean loop runs.
The Space:
Table: 32" tall, pushed against the back and right walls.
Surface Area: 41" wide × 33" deep.
My Initial Idea:
On the desk: HTC on the left, HT next to it, and 1 AMS on the right. (I believe that hits right around the 41" width limit).
Above: A second AMS on a shelf mounted 16" above the desk AMS.
In front: The third AMS placed right in front of the lower AMS on the desktop.
Since I’m pretty new to printing, I’d love to hear your thoughts or any tips on how you’d arrange this to optimize the tubing routes. Many thanks!
One think to consider, having the AMS on the right side of the printer (looking towards front of the printer) may lead to bent filament tubes since the filament inserts are pointing towards the left hand side of the printer. In terms of shortest path placing the AMS and/or HT to the left side of the printer sounds more reasonable.
Putting an AMS in front of another AMS will be a bit of a hassle. The front AMS PTFE is in the way when accessing the rear AMS. Nevermind the lid when swapping rolls between AMS.
Definitely something to consider. Thank you for that. The downside of the H2C on the right would be that right wall, make it more difficult to access the door. Anything else I’m missing with that right wall limitation?
Thanks for that link. That will save having to figure out how to fit a shelf in there. Still not sure what I would do with the third AMS though. I really don’t want to stack an AMS on top of the H2C but given the option of the AMS, one in front of the other or one on top of the printer, which would you choose?
A bit messy but I use the D3P Riser with 2x AMS 2 and 3x AMS HT along with the Filament Track Switch and it has worked well for me. You could add your 3rd AMS 2 on the table next to the H2
Works like a charm. The same creator also has a 2in1 splitter that replaces the default inlet so that you can attach a second PTFE for an external spool holder, when printing TPU or other non-AMS material. At least the version for X2D also works perfectly fine.
I have my stack on top of the H2C. I also loaded up the Skadis grid with tools, screws, magnets and gears.
There’s also a Skadis HT holder around on MakerWorld somewhere. So I’d actually put all AMS on top of the H2C.
I do need a foot step to get up there, but since I have the same set-up for my X1, it isn’t really a problem.
Putting everything up there free’s up precious table space (maintenance, a place to put down spools,…) or allows the use of a left sided poop slide.
Apologies. I replied to his email and didn’t post here. This is what I said:
Blowing my mind right now. Not two weeks ago, I asked Gemini if I could use a filament track switch on the H2C And it said no. I have one in use on my X2D which and hindsight was a mistake. I was going to take the switch from that printer and return it to one AMS.
The thing is, using a filament track switch on the H2C With 3 AMS Feels like it could Inadvertently create a bottleneck. I was originally thinking using one AMS and perhaps the HT on the left nozzle And the other two AMS on the right. I’ll say again, I’m still new to the space so if My line of thinking is incorrect, please chime in. Thanks for sharing the link. I’m going to take a look at it now
Thanks so much for all the responses, everyone—you’ve definitely given me a lot more to think about!
My H2C actually arrived today, though I’m nowhere near ready to get it set up just yet. In the meantime, I immediately started printing the Flip Flop Dual AMS Stacker on my X2D to get the ball rolling.
A few updates and a couple of questions based on your feedback:
Filament Track Switch on the H2C: I had no idea this was an option (AI gave me bad info a few weeks ago and said no!). Now I’m considering pulling it off my X2D, since the X2D is going to become my single/dual-color printer. Running two AMS units on it now feels like overkill in hindsight. The big question is: should I move the switch over to the H2C? My thought was running one AMS (and possibly the HT) on the left nozzle, and the other two AMS units on the right nozzle.Do I even need to incorporate a filament track switch?
H2C Front Door: Is it possible to swap the door hinge direction on the H2C? While it won’t be pressed right up against the far right wall, it’s going to be close enough that opening it as-is will be pretty awkward.Edit: No. Not possible per Bambu
Exhaust System & Rear Clearance: I’m researching a shared exhaust setup to tie both the X2D and H2C into a single line. The idea is to run 4" white PVC along the rear wall, make one turn, and vent it out the window using an inline fan near the exit to pull the air. (Printing PETG in my 12’ x 12’ office is already making me lightheaded, so this needs to happen!). It’s a lower priority for now, but I bring it up because the rear adapters on the H2C will add extra depth, which could affect how far out the printer sits from the wall.
Revised Layout Plan:
Based on everyone’s input, here is where I’m landing for placement:
Far Right: The Flip Flop Stacker sitting on the desk to hold two of the AMS units. Edi: CONFIRMED. Printing as we speak
Middle: The H2C right next to it.
Above the H2C: I’ll likely build a floating shelf to hold the last AMS. Edit: HARD NO! After doing some research on floating shelves, I’ve abandoned the idea of supporting 22 pounds on a couple of flimsy hidden brackets. In addition, I originally thought I could go with a shelf depth of 12” but I had not taken into account the PTFE coming out the back which could extend that depth 3” easy. I liked the idea in theory, I thought it would look nice but with the $100 cost and the hassle, it just makes more sense to let let the AMS rest on the top of the H2C and then figure out how to support one HT in the air. I have seen people set up there. HTs hanging off their riser. I’m just not sure that would work unless you had one on each side for balance.. maybe someone can confirm.
AMS HT: Still dialing this in. I’d love to get it elevated—so either on the floating shelf with the third AMS, or on its own small shelf on the left side, about 12" above the desk.
Please keep the advice and comments coming! I’m learning a ton from you all, and getting this initial footprint right feels super important for the long haul.
To me, all your new placement ideas sound fine. I too would put the HT slightly elevated, so that you can a poop chute under it. The HT could hover just above but still be easily accessible. For me, the HT is the AMS I open by far the most. Whenever I need a spool that is not in one of the AMS2, I throw it into the HT, so that I don’t have to open the AMS2 and introduce humidity. It also serves as external spool holder for e.g. TPU, bypassing the feeders and buffer.
For the FTS, it probably depends, how you use your printer You could start without it and if you start missing it, just throw it in. Same for the printed manual version. Or maybe, I would put that in in any case I think. When I thought through how I might use my 3 AMS, for each scenario I needed to group them differently for the 2 sides.
”When I thought through how I might use my 3 AMS, for each scenario I needed to group them differently for the 2 sides.”
I thought that most people use the left nozzle with just an HT or one AMS and then use the right side for the majority/all of the color spools. Lmk. Appreciate it.
Ah, I forgot that you are on the H2C, sorry mixing up threads, I was thinking about X2D
I agree, you probably have far less occasions where you want to completely rearrange AMS.
I think, the only occasion then is, when you want to use both nozzles and the filament for the left nozzle is in one of the AMS2. Or you need the full print area and want to print filaments from AMS2s on the left.
Based on everyone’s input, here is where I’m landing for placement:
Far Right: The Flip Flop Stacker (Currently printing) for two AMS 2 Pro
Middle: The H2C right next to the Flip Flop Stacker.
Above the H2C: A 3rd AMS sitting on top of the H2C riser (To be printed). These three total AMS units will be configured for the right nozzle.
AMS HT: Hung from the riser on the left side of the H2C, dedicated to the left nozzle.
If anyone sees anything I should change here, please let me know. I haven’t researched the installation procedure for this setup yet, but that will likely be next. Thanks again to everyone who chimed in. It was incredibly helpful.
I got my first 3D printer about two weeks ago and waited a week for my 55in x 28in table to arrive before I could start playing with it.
I have this exact setup as you with my H2C, 3 AMS 2 PRO + 1 AMS HT.
I am still printing the stacker but my plans is keep one AMS 2 and the AMS HT on top of the printer, and then stack the other two AMS on the right side of the printer using this hardware free all PETG AMS stacker: —- EDIT— [I removed the link to this stacker design because it has a major flaw. The lid of the bottom AMS will not open completely and falls down because the top AMS sits too low. Why else would the maker choose not to disclose the flaw in the description other than to deliberately mislead other users. I wasted 1100g of filament on this design. >.<]
All connected to the printer via FST with the three ASM 2 connected via the 4 in 1 PTFE adapter assigned to the right nozzles of the Vortek and the AMS HT assigned to the left nozzle.
I’ll post a pic in the next day or two after the stacker is assembled.
& 
You could also mount a board up behind the printer where two or three AMS2 could sit if you don’t like putting them on the H2C.
You could start without it and if you start missing it, just throw it in. Same for the printed manual version. Or maybe, I would put that in in any case I think. When I thought through how I might use my 3 AMS, for each scenario I needed to group them differently for the 2 sides.
