Several days ago my H2C got a filament jam in the extruder. Followed the wiki page to disassemble, remove the stuck filament and re-assemble. Everything went smooth, all parts back together without issue. I have a ticket in with support but it’s been very slow to get a reply.
Since the jam the left nozzle is now dragging along the plate. It gets through the nozzle offset calibration just fine, extruder switching works, and bed leveling works . I’ve been using the manual flow calibration to test, using only the left nozzle and when it goes through the bed leveling process with the left side it seems to work just fine.
Here is a video of whats happening:
What I’ve tried so far:
Use several different nozzles, verified installed correctly (have several other printers with the same type of quick swap nozzles, no issues)
Used alignment tool to seat the filament alignment guide
Per bambu’s request, disassemble and re-assemble everything looking for anything that could cause the offset. They also requested I re-seat the nozzle mounting assembly (left), which I did,
Ran full calibration (4+ times now)
Cleaned calibration and other sensors + cameras
Replaced and re-installed flow blocker several times, now removed as not needed for testing
Ran high precision nozzle offset calibration (results in failure due to bed scraping / bad extrusion due to nozzle being literally inside the bed)
Reinstalled current firmware
Installed latest public beta (.50)
Reset to factory (twice)
The last support ticket requested I reset the printer to factory and re-install the firmware, which as mentioned above I’ve done with no change.
Anyone have any ideas? I’d really appreciate anything at this point. I’m completely at a loss now. I fear that at the current rate it will be weeks if not longer until support can help me find a solution. If anyone is able to help me get it fixed I will gladly buy you a coffee.
Hi, I had a similar issue with my H2C a month or so ago. The problem was with the flow blocker that extends beneath the nozzles. The flow block was bent and was dragging across the build plate. A spare flow blocker is included in the parts kit that you received with your printer. Check to see if this is your problem. There is a video that walks you through replacing it if this proves to be your problem as well. It only took me about 15 minutes to replace it and that solved my problem. Good luck.
Thank you, I’ve removed it temporarily for testing per supports suggestion.
I know exactly what you are talking about though, I had that same issue last month as well. Fortunately it’s not really needed unless printing multi material.
I’ve never tried printing with the right nozzle not installed. I think it does home with the right nozzle before switching to left and then check offset. Can you redo it with an installed right nozzle. It may be counterintuitive to need the right when you’re only printing with the left but not sure how the logic reacts in that case.
Edit: btw, I’ve never seen such a fast and clean prime line, is it because of the tungsten nozzle?
Yes, it moves up very slightly. I had a post on Reddit that asked a similar question and they confirmed theirs also go up a bit with a click. Here’s a video of it, partially disassembled for a better view of vertical action:
Only other thing I can think of is running the tramming g-code and see if maybe your bed is out to lunch. If your eyes are good you should almost be able to tell visually if something is a miss or some sort of 2mm shim. I wouldn’t go around loosening screws yet. Messing with the extruder wouldn’t have caused that but may it was just at limits before or something. Total shot in the dark. Found here
I don’t think it’s the nozzle. In your video you can clearly see the bed moves up a fair bit going in the middle so either your calibration is way off or your machine start gcode has an error. Have you modified it?
Thanks, the right nozzle being installed hasn’t changed the result either way. I have tested with it in and with it out. In the videos I took it out so the left nozzle was available in full view. When I test now I only print with the left nozzle so ensure it’s isolated.
Unfortunately the prime line is very squished, a lot of the time the printer will drag it to the model printing area. I don’t think it its due to the tungsten. It’s about the same with the stainless steel.
Have only had it for 2.5 months now, I have never modified any of my printers. I don’t modify the gcode either. This video is also while printing the built in calibration, fully stock and default settings.
I’ve run the full calibration, tried the high resolution offset nozzle calibration and the motion accuracy calibration (with the vision encoder). No luck
Thanks, this is the step I’ve held off doing. Tramming can be so destructive if done wrong I’ve held off from doing it until Bambu asks me to. I’d hate to screw something up.
You may be on to something though, I could run the tramming just to see if it appears to be off without actually making an adjustment? I did buy the metal shims for my P1S when I had to tram that, they are calibrated for different heights. Now if I can just find them!
My nozzle does take a small amount of force, seems very very similar to yours.
The right nozzle does print fairly well, I’ve only printed a few things since this started but I have noticed the layer lines aren’t as good as before (with the same filament and print)
You absolutely can run the tram gcode without touching a screw, it’s what I would suggest. It’s only a few min long and can be stopped at any time. It basically just moves the print head around to the 4 corners about 2mm from the plate/bed without using the auto bed level correction pausing at each corner for 30 seconds. That’s it.
I was asking what would happen if you printed something with the R nozzle, does that one drag as well post extruder surgery?
Disclaimer: I am not an expert and fairly new to printing as well but I have been diagnosing and fixing things most of my life.
Right nozzle does print, I’ve printed a few things with just the right since this started. It’s not as good of quality as it was before this started however.
Just printed the 2mm model Bambu provides, about to test it
I’m curious. I haven’t done this on my own machine yet. Edit: I just did, about 4.8mm.
Retract the L nozzle so the right is the lower one. Manually and slowly move the bed up until it is about 2mm away or so from the R. Try to measure the gap between bed and nozzle. Now lower the L and measure the same. Is there a large difference?
Just checked but they are nearly identical in height. I used the 2mm printed shim and raised the bed just below the right nozzle, tested xy movement under it, then raised the bed 1 level to where it touched the nozzle so I couldn’t move the shim.
I then checked the left nozzle with the exact same process, same result. First level it can move just like the right nozzle then when I move the bed up 1 level it’s touching the nozzle.
Both tests were made at the same vertical bed positions. At the end I end up lowering it back down so I can remove the shim after testing it in the touching position.
When you disassembled everything, did you have to touch or remove the eddy sensor? From my understanding the eddy sensor is used it bed homing functions to sense when the nozzle makes contact. I also know that Bambu is quite specific in how the eddy sensor should be installed. I believe you need to be able to place a folded piece of paper (0.2mm) between the sensor and the lifting slicer. Reference about halfway down. I think I also read that those wires are easily damaged.
Again, another shot in the dark. If Bambu tech support didn’t suggest it then I doubt it will be of much use but you never know.
