I have been on this forum for a few days. I have been reading and commenting and people have been providing information and for that thank you. But I felt at some point people will get sick of newbie questions like i ask about one of the more upper-printers in the range. So i feel maybe one thread where people like me can ask things that we don’t know since we skipped a few models many people here seem to be in the 3d printer space for a long time. This way the old crowd can join in laugh at our silly questions answer them or just ignore this thread. I hope this makes sense and helps.
For myself someone gave me a M5 (anker) and well it worked for a while and i got angry at it and looked online heard a p1s was good and ordered it and been using that. I just want to print things i design and test. These days i mostly use it to design/prototype parts for camera/film gear i have been working with a company called smallrig for >12 years in the old days just talking, sending drawings, waving my hands or if lucky they flew me from amsterdam to shenzen to stay at their offices last time for 10 days to work directly with them that was end of 2019 and well yeah 2020 things went a little closed for a while so was remote and from home. With the m5 and mostly the p1s i can make prototypes test things here at local camera shops, feel, ponder and then communicate. They mostly ignore my designs and make 100% new 3d designs which makes sense since mostly they are in alu or molded or… But the 3d printing helped a lot and is fun to do. Long intro … so was ready to get something nicer and heard about the h2c a few months ago and decided that would be the one so now i have it i can print just fine but getting deeper into what it can do have many questions at times about basic 3d printer things i simply didn’t learn because i jumped from simple printer into this. I might not be alone in only joining the 3d party so late and missing some basic stuff you all have learned over the years so i will ask my questions here and others can add theirs. This way we can get up to speed without bothering the people who know nearly everything already.
Ok let me start with a simple one. On the p1s i new there was a speed setting including “ludicrous”. I never used it but i wanted to see how wobbly the h2c would be on my table so i made a benchy with it and while watching that wondered why doesn’t it do things like purge tower and supports always at that speed and only slows down for the models. We don’t care how these look right? A good example of a question i a have and probably has a easy answer. And the benchy was fine here it is in for you americans in special 3 colors. Well one is orange since i am dutch and didn’t have any red.
Second question : when looking at switching between the 2 heads they pre-heat and clearly the new induction one heats way faster. Do we have any idea why bambu didn’t use the same induction one on the Left side even if it was semi-fixed ?
There are certain filaments only the left nozzle can run. The more hardcore exotic stuff. I imagine the induction ones have trouble with super abrasive stuff. Read pps-cf, the nozzle guide shows you.
ahh ok make sense in that way they knew the left one could do more and was in use for a long time without issues maybe once the induction method is proven they will switch to that. tnx.
I would be careful about using the aftermarket cables. The BIQU cable was released before the AMS 2 was on the market, so I doubt their claim that it is fully compatible with both versions. The new AMS 2 uses a different more robust cable as it also sends the power for drying through it, Bambu specifically says not to use the older cables with the new AMS 2. I tried my older 1.5m bambu cable with AMS 2, its functional but it might cause problems in the long run.
Can we assume that this is partly because of the power use for drying and would be less of a issue if we add a external power block to each ams2 that was already told to me was a good idea anyway ? And if we stay with bambu cables we have i see only 2 options 50cm and 150cm. well could be worse i guess.
Molex specifies the gauge, as long as you are within the spec - you are good. It’s not a rocket science.
Also AMS2 consumption is very low for this cable/connector. Even the thinnest spec cable (30 gauge stranded) is enough to cover AMS2 draw.
new question : i understand the requests for multiple nozzle sizes in one print but also understand if i think about it thats not easy todo in a slicer. Where i am less sure is the normal vs highflow i never changed the nozzle in my p1s no need yet. But now it sounds to me on some prints or layers it would make sense for the slicer to use a highflow nozzle to gain 30% speed and only use the normal one on layers that need the detail. Does that make some sense and why don’t we see that requested ?
Well, I wouldn’t do that personally. Just because I see zero reason in having more than one AMS2. One AMS 2 and the rest are not al AMS. Unless somehow you need to heat more than 4 spools simultaneously.
Or I would look into a higher capacity power supply (BL using standard supplies) and will make my own breakaway board connected to the PSU directly. I don’t like a crapton of dangling wires everywhere, especially for something low consumption as AMS heater.
You can use HF nozzle in general and control speed for specific scenarios. For example speed up at infill printing and slow down at wall printing.
In my experience BL are extremely allergic to PETG for some reason and HF nozzle resolves that problem of crumbling.
So quality on a normal one is not better than on a HF nozzle slowing down would give same results on both? In that case if i get HF nozzle would the printer auto speed up on onfill and be smart about it or would i need to set that by hand? Kind of the same as my first question on “ludicrous” mode speed on tower. Does the printer/slicer speed up slow down by itself or we can only unlock some of these ‘free’ speedups by hand (sorry warned you on stupid questions).
It doesn’t wear them out faster than the same non HF nozzle.
It does have a higher chance to clog .4 nozzle due to the HF channel opening size.
In practice… It’s completely fine.
