Relatively new to printing. Trying to figure out why my H2C produces the print on the left and my P1S prints the one on the right. Using Bambu Black Matte on both printers…
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The filament isn’t cooling off enough before the nozzle comes around on the next pass, so when it does, it drags/smears some of that still-to-soft plastic in the process. Different chamber temps. The H2C is running hotter there.
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whats the solution for it? turn fan up ?
I wondered about that. I did both prints with doors open, top glass closed. Temperature the same in both chambers. And the bed fan on the H2 was running at 100%. Other things I’ve tried since the post:
- as much as possible, the print quality, speed, other settings are the same.
- tried using the same spool in both printers
- tried AMS, AMS Pro, AMS HT and ext spool holder on both printers
- printed a copy with the left nozzle and got a little better quality but still not close to p1
- tried a different right nozzle - no change
- rotate the model 45 degrees - no change
This print is a cut of the top 40mm of a tall poop chute. It appears that the problem only occurs at the top where there aren’t holes. But regardless, the overall print quality in the lower section is poor.
Not sure what else to try at this point. I thought the H2 would print better regardless of the situation compared 1-1 with the P1S.
Are these using the same SPOOL?
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Same stl? Are the projects essentially the same? Does the H2C print other STLs normally?
I don’t have a Pxx model so no experience, but I do have an H2c and an H2d as well as a few A series printers. I think my H2C has the best-looking prints, I’m not sure if it’s because of the fan or what the difference could be, the prints that are coming off of my H2C are the best I’ve ever seen.
That was a few of my attempts. Same spool in each of the locations (AMS, AMS2, HT and ext). I also tried PLA basic instead of matte - same result.
I’m wondering if it has something to do with the way the H2 handles the ‘knob’ on the edge of the print. I kicked out this U bracket and it printed flawlessly.
Same STL. I went through each of the Studio settings and compared the settings 1-1 and matched them to the extent you can with multiple nozzles: quality, speed, quality coefficient, anything that I could match. Then all I did was change the printer destination and print.
The other prints on the H2 are stunning. :Love the printer. Typically I would have blamed the model and moved on but when the P1 printed it so well, I’m OCDing on why. Guess I should step away for a while and have some fun on other things.
I would say it’s fair to ask why, I don’t think you should be getting those results on the H2, something is off, just not sure what.
The problem, to me anyway, definitely looks like a cooling issue.
You’re assuming that the absolute accuracy of the temperatures being reported between the two machines is good. Maybe I’m a pessimist, but I would expect the opposite. Precision temperature sensors cost more money. What the machines report, and what they’re actually at, may not be the same. And a few degrees one way or the other might make all the difference.
As an experiment, slow the print speed way down so the layer will have longer to cool before the next extruder pass, see if that solves (or improves) the problem.
Another experiment to try is to rotate the model on the build plate. Does the area with the defects follow the model, or is there evidence of a problem in the same area (relative to the build plate, not the model) on the rotated model?
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Did you try rerunning all the auto calibrations?
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@batt_incd please upload your 3mf file with all your settings applied, both the version for P1s and the version for H2C
it looks like a slicing issue to me
Check post-slice in Bambustudio and compare between the two printers. Scroll through every layer and check the different things like speed, temp, etc. and see if there are any differences. Usually weird anomalies are a result of something like speed, temperature, layer speed and/or fan speed at different layers.
I wonder if it’s also some auto calibration thing the H2C is doing too that is not right. I thought there were some settings to control that sensitivity?
For me the H2C is more clean on first layers and far as i can see on par with
my p1s on the rest of the prints. So far very little issues did basic setup and started printing. Hope you
will find it soon.
I load each 3mf in a separate Studio session and compared each option, line by line. [Sheepishly] I did miss an important option: travel speed. H2C was at 1000 and P1S was 500. I set them both to 500.
Also, the default smooth coefficient for the H2 is 4 and the P1 is 150. I set both to each option and printed.
Here’s my latest. A huge improvement over all previous test prints but the P1 is still a tad better than the H2.
I printed a simple bracket which printed perfectly. I’m wondering if the issue has something to do with how the H2 prints the little ‘knob’ at the end of the model.
FWIW…this is the model I’m working with. large cap poop chute
H2 on left. P1 on right
PC_H2C.3mf (932.2 KB)
PC_P1S.3mf (930.3 KB)
Apologies for the dupe text and pics from above.
In the slicer preview, is the print speed the same for all lines? For the slicer preview, not the settings I mean. Specifically once it gets above those holes. Which makes sense the speed would be slower for those layers and then get faster as it gets above it and causing artifacts (if it’s too fast).
A couple issues at the same time.
- your filament is defeinitely not dry enough
- layer height too high for H2 series 0.4mm nozzle. Going above 0.24mm is not recommended.
- seam placement and z hop style. on the H2 the seam was placed on an outwards turning corner
H2
P1
Best placement is always “internal turning corner” or a “crease” away from large travels
The seam placement algorithm got fooled by this geometry:
Lower layers: using another place for seam
Layer of the change: found another internal turning corner, so used that.
Layer above: due to using “Aligned” seam, now it is aligning on an suboptimal position
H2 default filament profiles for some reason uses Spiral for all z hops, while for X/P it uses “Auto”. There are different z hop styles, Spiral reduces stringing but it can cause excessive shake if the filament is soft. Which might contribute to your issue as well.
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As an aside, I run .28 layer height on my P1S, all day long with a .40 nozzle and have never had any quality problems whatsoever in any materials. I would think the H series should at least do as good as its little brother
huh thats weird did you dry the fillament