H2D - ABS/ASA + Laser Vapor Filtering

Bambu Lab H2 Series
1

Hello everyone,
I need your opinion and assistance. I didn’t really want to get involved with lasers in a 3D printer, but I couldn’t resist the latest price promotion.

I operate my H2D printer in my living room, where I spend most of my time. I currently print PETG, ABS, and some ASA very often. Unfortunately, the latter two produce odors that bother me a lot.

So a few months ago, I printed four (five) filter methods:

  1. H2D/H2S Aux Filter XL - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

  2. H2D External Air Filter (w/ Stock H2D Air Filter) - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

  3. H2D Ben2Box w/ Wireless Power - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

  4. H2 Carbon Filter - Upgraded Air Filtration - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

  5. H2 Series enclosed poop catcher - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

Yes, I know, the latter isn’t really a filter. I was hoping it might help a little, but unfortunately it didn’t. There are still odors or vapors.

Now that I’ve converted my H2D to the laser version, I was hoping that the glued side windows would seal the housing a little, but there’s still a gap visible at the Bambu Lab logo where vapors could escape.

And now we come to my other problem: laser fumes.

First of all, I want a solution that doesn’t escape out the window, but is filtered in the room. I could do that in the summer if necessary, but in the winter it’s not a solution.

The Bambu Lab air filter is too big for me and probably too loud. So I looked for an alternative and found one from the grow scene (recommended by a buddy :wink: ) that should do a good job: the VIVOSUN AeroZesh T6 Pro in the 150 mm version.

I quickly printed the necessary parts, such as a 90-degree downward-facing 100 mm adapter for the airflow outlet on the H2D. An additional LEVOIT LV-H132, H13 HEPA air filter with activated carbon & nylon pre-filter.

After connecting everything, I switched the H2D to cooling mode so that the flaps at the top and rear would open, and set it to 30-60%. I turned on the external filter and added smoke to the printer.
What I noticed was that the smoke was only being extracted a little, but rather a kind of vortex was forming in the room. The air is being drawn in at the top, but somehow it’s not being pulled through to the back.

Then I read and saw that some people remove the top slat from the rear cover or print a new one that includes the extinguishers. Or they simply remove them all. But even that didn’t really improve things.

Do you have any ideas what else I could do?

And can this vent solve the problem with ABS ASA if you remove a slat and can suck out the odors without causing a large air flow and warping due to the temperature difference that can cause such a suction effect?

Is it even possible to eliminate the odors, or is the only option to put the printer in an additional cabinet and work with suction?

2

IMHO trying to seal this thing up is a loosing proposition (I have H2C). I mean the thing comes with a giant gaping hole in the back (waste chute – yea we can make an enclosed box for it, but it didn’t come with one, not even as an add-on). If the designers weren’t bothered by a giant hole, imagine what other cracks and gaps are there (as in the window you noticed). I feel a little guilty just heating the thing up for high-temp printing (definitely need to print a chute cover).

If it were in my living space I would (probably) get a “grow tent” setup for it (aesthetic considerations aside). They’re for growing smelly weed, and are literally designed for an isolated environment (humidity, temperature & odor typically need to be tightly controlled). They’re set up for exhaust control already, including adding air scrubbers (many kits come with one). I know that’s a fairly popular solution and I’m not the first to think of it

Or get it out of the living space. The fumes are kinda nasty.

If looking at external air filters, I highly recommend one with an ionizer function. They’re hard to find for some reason, but do exist. I’m talking about the kind that has both a HEPA-style filter with fan, in addition to an ion generator. Those loose ions cling to particles in the air and help the filter remove them. The ionizer really helps a lot.

Mine’s in it’s own workshop-style room, which I do spend some time in… I got 2 ionizing air filters going in there, plus A/C unit with carbon filters… and I’m considering putting in a vent hood over the printer… maybe something like this:

800×400 61.4 KB

:laughing:

Cheers,
-Max

3

The airflow inside the printer is turbulent. You’re expecting “laminar flow”, and with all the obstacles inside the machine there’s no way you’re going to get that. It’s arguably the right way for it a 3D printer to work, since you want to get all the heat out of all the areas inside the machine and not just whatever happens to be between the air inlet and the exhaust fan.

So when you run the cutter, the smoke is going to get “stirred in” to the air inside the chamber before being exhausted. You can’t prevent it.

It’s why running a fancy 3D printer with all its force sensors and optical trickery as a laser cutter is a sub-optimal idea. That smoke is going to go everywhere and coat everything and it’s going to negatively effect the operation of the machine unless you are OCD about cleaning everything after running the laser.

I’d add that I have a real CO2 laser cutter, fully enclosed by design (not some aftermarket add on thing). When it’s running, smoke goes everywhere before it’s drawn out through the exhaust port at the left rear corner. I clean the machine regularly (frequency depending on what I’ve been cutting) and I find buildups in places where you might think there’d be no airflow.

4

vent outside is the best option

5

I tried to get my H2D odorless as well, but failed with filtering. The problem is, that bed wire goes into the mainboard housing with a very big gap and next to it is the cooling perforation below the poop chute. As well on the PSU side there is a very big gab between right housing and the frame and next to it is the PSU cooling perforation. What you need it a lower pressure in side the printer as outside the printer.

The way I achieved this is by printing one of these perforated exhaust fan flaps, adding an external fan to the an exhaust hose and letting it blow out of my window. With that installed and active it will still reach 65 degrees chamber temperature, while nearly having no smell at all in the room.

6

So my perception with my setup is that the smell has become significantly less and is now only minimal. The chamber can be heated to vent level 1 to 2. I do this by heating the chamber to 60 degrees on vent level 1, as this is faster, and then increasing to level 2 when the pressure starts or after layer 3 or 4.
I left the poop outlet open so that a minimal air flow should be drawn in, possibly also from the other extinguishers. When I close the poop outlet with my hand, I can feel that air is being drawn in.
I’m still testing this out.

My question is: Can I close the upper front flap of the H2D when laser cutting or engraving?
I would like to test whether the smell is better filtered when closed and cannot escape through the flap.

7

If you close the flap, it will be harder to remove the smoke from the printer. You can’t suck air out of vacuum chamber, so you’ll have more dirt and grime buildup inside the printer. And maybe even more smell in the house.