Ok it’s done - for anyone wants additional filtration 
Woohoo! Printing this as soon as i get home from work today! Tossed you a couple boosts too! Thanks!
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I made it.
Was mad that there was no Exhaust Filters out there.
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That’s cool. Do you think it’d be overkill to try to fit 2 of them side by side?
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Side by side as in making the filter hole larger wouldn’t be too hard, but it might get in the way of other components (Like my poop box that stops air leakage) and be harder to screw in. (Annoying Allen key time) You can always do a two piece design, but I wanted something small, simple, and clean. All depends on how you want to fit it. Two filters vertically doesn’t cause said issues, but is looks weird.
Two filters in series is easier and won’t cause aforementioned issues, but might cause some airflow issues. (Probably doesn’t matter, same thing for 1 filter. Your defaults will just have slightly less airflow than other peeps defaults. Minor to no deviations/degradations in part quality)
Either way, changes are easy. Just give me dimensions or directions to accommodate any filter design. (These push in filters with a fabric lining are the easiest to change between. Tolerances for friction fits have a lot of wiggle room. Design revisions are needed for others) Comment and I’ll get around to it. Also SolidWorks file was uploaded.
Thanks. I ordered 4 filters, let’s see how many I can fit 
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Looks good. The problem in my setup, and a lot of other peoples is the clearance behind the printer being minimal.
You guys are awesome! Adding days to everybodies lives here lol.
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I thought about making a box I could put a small air purifier half way in so the intake is in the box, and then run a hose to the exhaust of the printer. Basically a home made smoke purifier lol.
I already have one of these sitting around, I might try it. Amazon.com: Elechomes P1801 HEPA Air Purifier with 4-Stage Filtration, Auto Mode, Air Quality Sensor, Removes 99.97% Dust Smoke Pet Dander, Portable Air Purifier for Home, Bedroom, Living Room, Grey: Home & Kitchen
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I posted this in another thread but here it is again. With these two prints and the IKEA Uppatvind ($35) you have a little self-made smoke purifier with H12 HEPA + activated carbon. Im going to convert that hose adapter model to one piece for H2D and adjust the sizing for the IKEA purifier with carbon add-on as its thicker. Im printing it now to confirm fit, will upload it tomorrow.
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New to 3D printing but wanted to look into the Air Quality side of life prior to printer arrival.
Made Toms AQM ESP32 driven sensor box and got it all set up and logging in Home Assistant prior to arrival of the printer. Used a Dyson fan to check the outputs were making sense as a dirty calibration tool.
Then dug through a wide range of Air quality documents (mostly using WHO as they are very low compared to others) trying to get some sensible limits for PM1, 2.5 and 10, CO2 (laser), TVOC, Formaldehyde, temp and humidity.
Since getting the printer last Friday I’ve made a mix of PLA, PETG, ASA and ABS prints.
AQM is sat near the printers back left corner, so pretty close to the rear outlets/poop chute.
PM readings are around the same from established ‘no printer’ baseline, peak PM10 at 44ug/M3 (normal around 4ug/M3), PM2.5 peak of 35ug/m3 (normal around 3ug/M3) PM1 at 20ug/m3 (normal around 3ug/m3) and same with other monitored gases. VOCs are up around 25ppb over my baseline. Formaldehyde trends about the same, with a peak of 123ppb versus normal background of around 10ppb.
Since printing some ABS (ironically for the carbon adapter for the IKEA Uptavind fan) the Formaldehyde was steadily tracking upwards from 10ppb up to 55ppb. Printer is in a small room and door shut overnight so a great example of gas build up.
I’ve got some ducting on order as already have a hole through the wall - the exhaust is going to be ducted outside once it arrives, got an inline fan to go in to help it along. Interested to see how that makes a difference.
Worth noting the peaks are all temporary spikes on the whole and aside from the ABS gradual Formaldehyde build up don’t show increased exposure in relation to printing time. The ‘biggest’ risk is during the warm-up/purging phase and then print removal once the door is opened - expecting the external ducting and extractor fan will mitigate the vast majority of this.
Really happy with the printer, had a few failed prints but that’s just me learning to clean the build plate or glue it. That said the bloody green door and window are dust magnets, shame they couldn’t use green tinted glass instead.
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This lines up with my smell-o-meter readings (and is why I covered up the poop hole)
That’s interesting that even printing with PLA, where the internal filter is bypassed and air is constantly exhausted), that the PM readings stay the same… Maybe it’s negligible compared to the background PM density.
Okay I’m in the right thread now, I think lol.
So you think a foam gasket between the fan and where it mounts to your model would increase the vibrations?
yup, there are 2 things to consider - first is isolation (keeping vibrations in the fan assembly) so the side panel doesn’t rattle and make noise - for this, less connection is better.
Second is damping - but you need a material or fluid that has high hysteresis - converting motion to heat - but foam doesn’t do that very well.
Adding mass to either the side panel or fan assembly will do much more to combat noise. But for aux fan % below around 70%, it still won’t do anything for overall noise because the other parts of the printer are louder.
Interesting. I always thought decoupling a fan from what it mounts to with something like rubber or foam would help dampen some of the vibrations. I definitely don’t want to add any attachment points or foam between the housing and the side panel, that’s just asking for trouble.
Hey quick question. Well 2 questions.
1.) are these supposed to have this bridge?
2.) would there be any benefit in slightly sizing up the ID on the dampers to reuse these silicone washer things that they used for the oem aux fan housing? In theory it should help
Well, I tried it out with the rubber things and making the hole in the damper bigger. It could totally work if the screws were like 5mm longer. I did install them but didn’t trust the standoffs on the side panel to hold up to how tight I had to screw them in. A longer screw would have definitely worked better. Maybe it was a placebo effect, but it did seem slightly quieter than just the 95A dampers alone.
Took those out and put the normal ones in. I might try to source longer shouldered screws eventually. Or I might just leave it alone lol.
Anyway. It’s installed! It works really well! I filled the carbon trays about half full with some 4x8 coconut shell carbon. With the fan on 70%, it flows plenty of air to do its job. Might even be able to turn it down to 50.
I’m pretty happy with this model! Ever since I got my first x1-c and realized I’ll never use the aux fan, I’ve been wanting to turn it into this very thing. I’m no good at this kind of designing though haha. So, thanks @KYZ_Design for the awesome mod!
Haha thank you! I find that in cooling mode 60% it’s pretty much inaudible over the exhaust fan. In heating mode, the heating fan is so much louder - can’t hear it at all at 70%.
I’d avoid using longer screws as that would make it easier to mess up the side panel and the difference would be unnoticeable.
Yeah the bridging is there to support the next layer but the screw go through them super easy.
I wonder if you can get it to run while laser-ing?
I haven’t tried it in cooling mode yet. Ran a hot print last night and with the chamber heater on, I couldn’t tell if it was working or not lol. Bambu handy, the slicers device tab, and the printer screen all say the aux fan is off when in heating mode but when I press on aux fan on the printer screen during the print it shows the 60% I set it to in the filament profile. I’ll do a small test print today when I get home and I’ll tape something to the bottom of the outlet to see if it’s actually turning on or not in heating mode. I hope it is lol because that was pretty much the whole reason I wanted it lol. I’m hoping they don’t have it configured so the aux fan cannot be turned on at all during heating mode prints.
I might also add a line of machine gcode that will keep the aux fan on for like 5 or 10 minutes after the print finishes. I might see if I can do this with the heater fan too, just without heat. Double down on print end chamber air scrubbing before I open it up lol.
I figured the bridging was a support. Was just a little confused lol. It worked pretty good.
I don’t plan on doing much lasting, but that would be cool if it was able to function during laser work.
Haha I wondered the same thing, but I opened the door and put my hand under to see if air was coming out (it was). Good idea on taping something there.
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