My H2D has about 5000 h and after 2 days printing in heated chamber i noticed the noise:
So i made a maintenance:
I cleaned and replaced all bearings from belt tensioning pulley idlers and a few stationary pulleys, it seemed to be one idler had falled bearings
I cleaned all idlers from belt dust with ipa
Added some oil to idlers
All of that didn’t fix the issue, noise is coming from right motor side but i can’t understand what exactly causes this. I can confirm that it’s 100% from right motor area because when i move toolhead diagonaly to activate only one motor the noise comes only from right motor side. And i also moved toolhead by removing belts, no clicking. And i also rechecked all other bearings from this area, again no biting or issues. Not sure what causes this.
Second the arm striking the case, I was an idiot and didnt remove the plastic over the rubber part and it was pretty noisy. About 1200 hours later I removed it and much different sound. Could it also be the buffer?
Edit to add I see you moved it manually and hear the clicking. Are you positive the belt tension screws are tightened for that side? (not too much, just snug).
Having the exact same sound, after less than 300hrs of printing.
It started after printing 12+hrs with heated chamber.
For me it seems to be more located at the left front idler pulley.
It’s worse when the printer is heated, so perhaps something to do with metal/bearing expanding a bit?
Filed a ticket with support, they asked me to show the problem in (another) video where I move the print head manually in the XY and both diagonal directions (to determine which motor/pulley is affected).
I would love to know why this is happening and not just receive a replacement part..
Cause a (possibly) worn bearing should not happen in less than 300hrs of printing, in my opinion.
Awaiting their reply to that video now.
Please let me know what will they say, they’ve been very slow to respond to me.
Also i found that X carriage bearing came to it’s end and it removed some other noise, but clicking one didn’t go away. I replaced almost all the idler bearing in the right side (it was a nightmare btw). I also noticed that when chamber is heated noise become worse. I think there’s something with belts rubbing, my best guess, because when i try to move belt up and down, the noise won’t go away, but it reduces in certain position.
I’ve just visited the device and yes don’t forget to don’t force idle motors by hand to avoid generating current. I just launched a home and while moving it did it as usual.
i never oiled the bearings and never tried to remove the wheel.
But frankly I don’t even pretend the machine to last 2 years of warranty for consumable items, i am ready and willing to buy fresh parts to install them prematurely before bigger disasters..
the bearings you removed were damaged ?
If i print hot the noise seems to stop, that’s why i suspected a pla chunk that melts and resolidifies between ball bearings, I did not pay so much attention to it lately. I really spent hours thinking about this while I should just had buy a new set roller bearings and throw all the actual ones
p.s. motor is 20€+s all parts included. But I won’t throw a good motor for sure
Yes, as I understand there are only two types of idlers and bearings inside, stationary and those which on x axis carriage. Stationary (All idlers that are not moving, including belt tensioning carriage) are 695zz and x axis are MR105ZZ. Make sure they are standartized, because i bought 695zz which had a heigh of 5mm, but it needs standart 4mm.
It took a few days, but the response contained the following (amongst the standard greeting and wiki article reference):
We are currently not entirely sure what caused the issue.
However, there is no need to worry — the idler is a replaceable part.
Unfortunately the wiki shows that you have to basically take apart the complete printer,
including the complete housing (back, sides, door, aux fan etc etc) and even part of the metal frame.. Will be a fun job to replace this part.
Honestly i didn’t see any need to remove top frame, I was able to replace all falled bearings without it, especially if you have long angled hexagonal wrench. But i think there are few idlers that needs full disassemble since there are no way to remove the screw without it. But the most horrendous part that took so much time is to add graphite washer, this is so tremendously difficult to put them in.
Yeah I was thinking the same, looking at the pictures in the article.
The article claims you need to remove the top part of the frame to reach for the front left idler, but it seems reachable just as is? Perhaps I will discover some issue with removing the idler, but for now it seems unnecessarily complex (the article). We’ll find out when the idler arrives .
Still confused how a bearing can give way under 300hrs, but glad that support is friendly and willing to help. (Opposed to the experience of many other people, judging by the posts I read here on the forum)
thank you
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