What are some popular options for purchasing Exhaust hose for the H2D? Mine should be shipping soon, Backordered since Thanksgiving… I’m concerned about fumes…
Thanks everyone,
AB.
I dont think there is popular options, maybe few printer adapters in makerworld. What fumes concern you? maybe a ventilated room is enough?
are you talking about the laser usage?
For me it’s ABS fumes. Gives me a headache. I already have this one sliced (straight up, 80mm spout) and ready to print. I’ll probably print it tonight overnight: H2D Ultrathin External Upward Exhaust Duct by 源源圆球 MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models
I’m currently printing two of these flaps as well: FPF - 3D Printed Bambu H2 Series Rear Vent Fins
We already have an exhaust fan setup that runs 24/7 in the machine shop where the printer is so I’m going to tie into that with regular cheap round duct. I also designed a gate valve that’s 4in on one side and 3 on the other along with a wall mount to mount to 4in duct pipe.
That’ll all be wall mounted and then a 3in flex hose will go from the gate valve to the printer duct. Then I can control airflow with the gate valve, just enough so that it exhausts the fumes but not so much that it causes a draft or interferes with the heated chamber.
ah yeah those are nasty. This statue I printed in ABS took about 300 hours and everything was left with a white haze on the printer, I had to put a fan and close the door with towels in the bottom while printing. I also get a headache with ABS
@Epic_Will , @3D_Druck_Chris, @eried, - I’m getting headaches from printing PET-G in a small, un-ventilated room. I have 2 Air purifiers working in the room already. My current printer is an A1. I just printed off this Exhaust Port by @FilamentOfMyImagination
for my H2D thats shipping from Ontario, CA.
Thank you all for your responses, I think I’ll have to crack a window moving forward to increase the fresh air quality.
post how it goes, I wondered about those designs but ended isolating the whole room. PETG and PLA arent that bad for me
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@eried I will. I found a Nylon Exhaust hose that was rated to 120c I believe on Amazon - Amazon.com: HG Power 3 Inch Duct Hose, 3" X 8FT Flexible Nylon Duct, Diesel Heater Hose Air Ducting with 2 Clamps for HVAC Ventilation (Black).
Im hopeful with the “Diesel Heater Hose” that it wont allow for seepage into the surrounding area. But, We’ll see.
- Aaron
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sorry for being banal but at the hardware store you can get flexible inox hoses for stoves
I’ll add my own question too.
Does anyone have a good idea for venting to a lift-up window in a cold climate? I’m in Canada, my 3D printer sits close to the window, and with temperatures around −6 °C at night, leaving a vent permanently connected would turn my printer—and the room—into one giant icicle.
My assumption is that when the printer is running, the extractor fan pressure should prevent cold air from coming back in. However, when the printer is off, cold air would likely flow straight into the room through the vent and the printer enclosure.
Has anyone designed or used some kind of locking or sealing mechanism that automatically blocks the vent when the fan is off?
My window is fairly narrow about 32 inches (82 cm) wide. I’d strongly prefer a 3D-printable solution rather than buying something off the shelf.
My two printers are currently connected to an air purifier with carbon filters, but I can still smell including PLA. It affects me quite badly: after about 15 minutes of printing PLA, I start coughing heavily. I might be allergic or extremely sensitive to plastics, which is why I want my H2C venting directly outside.
Anyone here from colder regions who has experience venting through a window?
You just put a vent flapper on the end of the outlet house. You need to have some form of “pest prevention” anyhow, so just add the little flapper door to that… Easy…
Me personally, I didn’t, and wouldn’t put the attachment “directly” on the printer anyhow. But if one chooses to go that route, more power to them…
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The H2D vent should close automatically when a print is done so it should prevent backflow. But a secondary flapper is not a bad idea. Easy to 3D print, you just need the axis of rotation for the flap slightly above the center of gravity for the flap. Don’t go too off center otherwise the printer exhaust would have issues fighting it.
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which screws did you use to install it?
I used these to install the one I printed: McMaster-Carr
Sorry for the blurry picture, but I figured I’d chime in because I did this. I modified the official H2D Smoke Ventilation Pipe Quick-release Assembly to:
- Fit a 150mm duct for a window-mounted exhaust system I bought off Amazon
- Add holes for constant negative pressure ventilation without forcibly trying to suck air out of the H2D chamber
I used M3 x 18 screws.
The duct goes from the adapter to an inline fan on the window that’s always on low. I “tuned” it by holding a tissue to the holes on the side of the adapter and lowering the fan to just above where the tissue would fall, as I don’t want to constantly vent my heat outside either.
I’ve been using this system for about a month now and the ASA printing smells are noticeably lower, and none of my prints have been affected (I’ve printed some of the same tall/large PETG and ASA prints before/after the system).
In addition to that, I also printed custom shims to increase the fit for my exhaust system in the window.
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I’ve been wondering about how much a passive exhaust fan (inline 4”) running constantly would affect the bed and chamber temperature. The motorized grille on the back of the H2D is a nice thing. But if I’m printing ASA or basically anything I want ventilation out the window.
As of now I have my resin printer and airbrush hood tied into that inline fan with blast gates for controlling airflow. I intend to tie this into the H2D when I get it.
Wonder if I need to test heat retention with that exhaust fan at various fan speeds to see if it will cool the chamber off too much for something like ASA.
Anyone have any experience with active ventilation of a printer while it’s running ASA or PETG?
I do, but the fan is from an air purifier not inline. It does create negative pressure along the short run, and the pipe from it get’s warm, as does the air it puts out.
It hasn’t affected internal temps. The bed stays at target as does the chamber. Once the print is done the air is circulated out and down to the purifier.
The vent doors are closed while printing ASA, not PETG. It would have to be a big fan to pull enough to cool the chamber while the vents are closed on ASA. The chamber is cooled during PETG so I don’t see any issue.
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Have you noticed much odour in the room with the air vents closed and running ASA?
No, but I honestly haven’t been printing that much ASA lately. Mostly ABS.
My setup has been working perfectly. O went with an off-the-shelf 4” gate valve and just made a 4”-3” adapter for it. It’s plumbed into the shop’s exhaust and I leave the gate valve cracked open about 1/4” or so. This is enough to pull the fumes without causing chamber heater issues and works perfectly.
I printed two of the H2D vent flaps from this FPF video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jj7Mv1iiFNc
And printed this H2D vent, I used the straight up 80mm version: H2D Ultrathin External Upward Exhaust Duct - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
