I recently got a H2D. It has been a great printer so far. Now I am getting odd rough corners on just one side of the printer. I have re-calibrated, tried cleaning and swapped filaments. Nothing fixed the issue. its on a 1/2" thick rectangle.
It is odd because I do not think it is a leveling issue because the first many layers are PERFECT. But when it starts to make the top layer it started becoming rough. Looking at the bottom I can see what appears to be a “pulling” up maybe? Attaching photos.
Looks like warping. I guess its a fairly big part (close to bed size) and you mentioned a thickness of 1/2”.
This is a recipe for warping even with PLA.
Are all images of the same part? The infill in the 1st photo shows a different infill type, or is all the same?
Can you show a good side image of one of the corners, so the layer lines can be seen?
You can try to use mickey mouse ears or a brim with zero distance to keep it on the plate.
Other scenarios are to change the part an break the large surfaces so shrinkage has less influence on the top and bottom surfaces.
The crazy part is I printed about 10+ of them and they all turned out pretty good. Lots my settings, and now I can not replicate the good quality I was getting. Also I do use variable layer hight on the top dropping it to 0.08 at the top layer and few below, so that may be causing it, but I did the same with the other ones that turned out well.
Side Views with layers visible:
Thanks so much for the replies, and on a holiday! That is a nice video. I am doing about 275mm x 150mm x 12.7mm (thick) rectangles but then adding text on top layer that is 6.35mm tall. So back to top of text is 3/4". While I was able to get them to print well before, I see adding some additional steps may help. In the video he appears to cut out large circles from inside the model that are then printed over for the top layer. I did not think you could do it that large. I was under the impression anything over 1.5mm or so would cause top layer issues. I can test with that and adding the bunny ears. Also with more testing I was able to easily replicate the issue of the top X layers starting to bend outward. It was the variable hight layers for some reason. Taking that away I get pretty flat sides, but the top looks much worse in terms of smoothness. Adding it back gives me smooth top but worse walls. Ugh… this has been a process. Have about 100 test print parts and still going.
What is the chamber temperature when you are printing? 30C would be a nice temperature.
I see some people having issues due to cold temperatures. In winter and in a non heated environment those issues occur also.
Cleaning your build plate with cheap dish soap might help also. Use a type that doesn’t contain greasy stuff to protect your skin.
Ok, so after more testing, playing with fan speeds and travel speeds as well as adding brims and internal cutouts on my plate I was able to get good top layer that stayed flat on bed. BUT the top layers still looks like it was “pressed” or “squished”. This is due to the layer height variable where I go from .2 to 0.08 .
Adding a shot of the setting. Is this a known issue? or is there a way to reduce it? I tried adaptive, smoothing, and manual. All created it in some form.
Why have you enabled variable layer height on this part. You can just keep the standard 0.2mm. I see no reason on the geometry you are showing, to use variable layer height.
I have run the flow calibration. And that print was maybe not the best example. Here is a better same model version without the variable line height setting.
ok, if you think so, Ill go back to creating basic cube in Bambu Studio, with default pla settings and try again. Any ideas on particular settings to pay attention to?
Going with default generic PLA settings on a rectangle created within bambu using primitives with aux fan off and a brim does create a decent rectangle that is flat on bottom but has the eh, not so great top.
I could try 0.1 layer height for starters on entire model, but that seems to be a waste when I really only care about the top few.
turning off aux fan did seem to help with the top layer “waves” so I will keep that off.
Already tried the ironing calibration and got decent results, but found the surface with the smaller layer height without ironing looks much better (when it does not smoosh things). I do not think I have played with line width much. I will try .3 and see. I suppose I could try a smaller nozzle as well. I just had such good results on some other tests I thought .4 was good.
The model I linked to happens to have calibrations for ironing, but I was really only thinking about the top surface flow. Thanks Gerrit for pointing out that is not a default option, I had forgotten that was the case.
