H2D > H2C Vortek Upgrade - Tips

Bambu Lab H2 Series
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Finally had some stock so ordered the Vortek upgrade kit for my H2D.

For those who have completed the upgrade already - was the serial activation process instant or do you need to wait while they activate?

Also, any tips or specific areas to look out for while upgrading?

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The serial activation was requested by me Sunday evening and the activation was done Monday around lunch. What you need to consider is, that the support usually seems to work during Chinese time zone. So expect about 24h delay and maybe do not request it on Friday, it may take until Monday.

The think which was not mentioned in the guid last week was, that you must execute the H2D l/H2C Manual Bed Tramming. Since the delivered bed may be very unkeveld. Mine was over 2 mm higher in the front left corner, which caused the nozzle to scrape the brand new PEI sheet during the initial printer calibration. So it would be best to run a simple leveling offline before the first startup. Just move screw down the bed leveling screws to the maximum, move up the bed by pulling the belt under the printer until a paper or some spacer is hit and then move around the toolhead from corner to corner and release the leveling screws until the bed is leveled. I did run this with a “measuring clock”. And skipped the GCode part.

Make sure to not miss the screw in the “front part”.

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3

Thanks for that!

So if I understand correctly, I can go through this exercise as soon as the new heatbed is installed by manually moving the toolhead to each corner, and using a 2mm shim to set the distance between it and the bed, adjusting each corner screw as needed. Then tighten up the side screws, as well as rear bottom screws, and I should be OK - I can run the calibration later.

I wont be able to run the G-Code mid-upgrade, so if I do the above as a bare minimum I should be OK?

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I only run the manual steps. The GCode I did not try at all. I think it only moves around the toolhead after some time and you have to look to not get injured. Other than the head moving I think this files does nothing.

If I would have known about it, I would execute it after the first power on (as described in the guide), while you skip the initial calibration. So make sure there are no errors and afterwards power off and level the bed. At this point in time you should still have the right side cover detached. So you can easier tighten the screws of the right bed side, since you can probably just stick the “screwdriver” through the Vortek assembly and tighten the screws. Else you probably have to move the bed down to tighten the screws.

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5

Watch for glue on connectors, clips on connectors, and take photos before you pull it apart. Track all screws. New screws are provided for most parts but knowing what came from where is important.

When you finish tram the bed.

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6

Ah and before you start exchanging anything, check the AC connector count of the current bed and the connector count of the new bed. I did not had any issue here, but the guid tells you about this point while plugging in the new bed. So you would have plenty of work to go back, in case you need a bed exchange but still need your printer during the delivery time.

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Thanks - makes sense, although I think I will manually level the bed straight after it is installed and cabled up. That way the side is off for easy access, and I know the bed install is completely done before moving on!

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Yeh I printed a small screw tray so I can organise the screws, and will label them as I go along. Especially the two different sized screws that hold the rear panel in place!

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Good tip! Will keep an eye out for that!

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I think I used ~18 individual cubes for screw retention and a sharpy. Pay attention to things like the gantry as the top screws are different then the rear. Bambu sometimes mounts into plastic and sometimes into metal. The screws look almost identical but the thread is ever so slightly different.

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11

I knew there were 5 boxes to the entire Vortek Upgrade package………..no-one told me every box is individually shipped too?! lol

I was expecting one shipment with all 5 boxes. Instead I received the main Upgrade box this morning, the Rack Assembly box this afternoon, and the remaining 3 yet to come! Seems Bambulab don’t care about shipping costs at least! lol

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Yeah, it was pretty annoying when they first rolled this out. I received one box at first, then waited over a month for the remaining boxes.

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What I don’t understand is my order shows the rack assembly and the upgrade kit. Both show delivered, and I do have both.

However, the order is not showing the remaining 3 parts/boxes (Heatbed, AP Board, & toolhead) at all? I would expect them to be listed here and marked as not delivered yet, or provide some tracking for them??

EDIT : Just been on online chat - seems I have one more delivery. Although my order page shows just some PETG and the Supertack Pro sheet as being in this delivery. Maybe the remaining kit boxes will come in the final delivery alongside these…..hmmmm…..

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I ordered the upgrade kit together with other stuff. I “only” got 3 packages:

  1. Vortek Rack Assembly
  2. Vortek Kit (only smaller stuff and heat bed)
  3. A mixed package with other stuff, AP Board and I think it was the tool head.

So they may wildly mix and split what we would name “the Vortek kit”.

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The fist box is named the Vortek Upgrade Kit, while the rest are named by their parts - even though the entire package of 5 boxes is ordered as the ‘Vortek Upgrade Kit’ lol

The 2 boxes I received today (1 and 5) came from abroad, whereas the remaining are ‘local’. Funny how the 2 Ive received came via air from the other side of the world, yet still got to me before the ones that are located just a few hundred miles from me! lol

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Panic for no reason - all remaining boxes arrived safely today :wink:

So on to the upgrade!

Other than the below, anything else I should be aware of? Reason I ask is I am filming a complete step-by-step build series (as I have created for various Prusa kits) - hence I would slick to add any additional build tips or other useful information into the build as I go. So far I have:

  • Organisation - keeping screws together and in sequence.
  • Manually levelling the bed once it has been installed

Thank you

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I don’t think manual adjustment of the hotbed is generally necessary. I would first check with a simple spirit level to see how flat the hotbed is. Only if there are significant deviations would I make a manual adjustment. There are reasons why the auto bed levelling function exists, and it is completely sufficient for minor deviations.

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  • Push the clips on the inside at the front to ease in releasing the side panel
  • Make sure you insert the small tab at the bottom of the front of the side panel before you secure it
  • If you install the transportation screws for the bed supports, do this AFTER you sit the bed on its supports (it’s in the guide but I overlooked it)
  • don’t forget to replace the power and data cables between MC and AP board (not in the guide)
  • when you route the cables for the rack and the sensor of the side panel, make them go horizontal up to the corner otherwise they will show through the window
  • Remove the front door it will make things easier
  • I found it easier to attach the corner flat cables (bird-eye and screen) on the AP board before sitting it in
  • most of the connectors have a release tab make sure you push the tab before pulling the cables
  • It’s in the guide but make sure the 2 bottom screws of the rack are just screwed until they contact the rack and stop screwing. They are just there to position the bottom of the rack, it’s just a stop, they don’t screw IN the rack so they will protude a bit which is normal
  • Don’t forget to remove the USB key before you replace the front panel (better to start the process by removing it first)
  • Go easy in pulling the Z belt to lower the bed supports, I disengaged my belt by hurrying this step…
  • The USB-C cable may be glued to the AC board (mine was not but some were) have a look and remove glue before you try to pull too hard on the cable to disengage
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19

Good idea with the spirit level! Thanks!

20

This is brilliant! Thank you!