I plan to use Bambu PLA Basic and Bambu PLA Matte with an HF 0.4 nozzle.
I don’t mind sacrificing quality as long as the print finishes faster.
I’m assuming a layer height of 0.24 mm—or is it possible to go even higher?
Could you kindly share the recommended Strength, Speed, and Filament settings that will achieve the fastest results?
Thank you in advance.
Here’s what I do for the P1S. Note that this may differ in the h2d. Also, go into this knowing quality is gonna suffer. If you have adhesion issues because you don’t have a cool plate or something like that (highly recommend the GECO plate for this, you can get it on amazon), bump up the bed temp. Also bump nozzle temps to around 250. You can do .28 layer height. For strength, if that is not an issue, one wall is fine. And very low infill too. Just know that faster speeds cause less adhesion. As for the speed tab, what you want to do is look at the specs of the filament and adjust the settings accordingly. If you have something like a cool plate, I would rise the first layer values by 100. If you have like a textured pei, leave the first layer values alone. Also don’t touch the percentages. Just increase all the values, especially the acceleration values. If you really wanna go crazy, go to the cooling tab in the filament settings, and there is a setting that allows you to set the minimum flow rate but I forgot what it was called. On really fast filaments, setting this to 300 with a cold plate goes crazy.
Final tips:
PLEASE read the filament specs! A lot of this won’t work if you are picking a filament that’s not designated to be a high speed filament too high.
Use the aux fan.
Ludicrous mode. This works great even without touching a single setting.
Larger nozzles can make a huge differences, I recommend investing in one. Also high flow nozzles if you don’t have those.
Hope I could help!
Something I forgot to add: bump your max volumetric flow rate after running a max volumetric flow rate test on makerworld.
I’ll just second that 0.28 mm layer height works well with a 0.4 nozzle. But haven’t tried it with HF nozzle.
Another speed improvement is if you can reduce the number of walls and compensate by increasing the line width. For example, instead of 3 walls of 0.42 mm each, I change it to 2 walls of 0.6 mm.
You can do .28 layer height and 1mm line width.
Ultimately, the speed will be dependent upon the filament’s max volumetric flow (how fast the printer can melt the plastic) and the model you are printing. For example, a wide model that stretches 2/3rds of the build plate will allow the print head to accelerate up to full speed and spend time printing at top speed. A narrow model 50mm wide would not allow the print head to accelerate up to full speed and so it wouldn’t matter if your speed was set to 500 or 5000 it will be limited by the short distance.
Similarly the volumetric flow rate will limit how fast the printer will move because it will not go faster than it believes it can sustain with melted filament. The math is : max volumetric rate / (layer height x line width) = speed. … and so these both come into play, if the filament can be melted fast enough for the speed vales you have entered, then your model must be sized appropriately for the print head to reach it’s full speed. If either or both of these are not true, your print will slow down appropriately.