The first setup looks very impractical to me. So you would pull the drawer out while printing? You would have to lock the drawer in that position, the printers cause considerable motion if the base is not fixed. How does the room around the printer look like, respectively could you also make a drawing how the cabinet would be standing in the room? Background:
I think I would hate it if I can’t freely access the printer with a bit of room left and right of the front.
Also keep in mind, that you occasionally want access the printer from the sides. E.g. the entrance for the tubes is at the rear left. In your setup, it will be almost impossible to reach there with the door in the way. And lifting an H2D around really is no joy.
I have an X2D in an IKEA PAX cabinet that is 1m wide and 60cm deep. For the X2D that is just deep enough in my opinion. It needs some space at the back for ventilation and I really need a few cm in front for putting down tools, filament rolls, and such stuff. I’m also drying filament in an AMS HT in the same compartment. For ventilation, I made a cutout in the rear, put on a 120mm silent fan with a temperature controller. Behind the cabinet there are maybe 3cm gap to the wall. So far that was sufficient for me even when drying PC at 85°C or printing it.
Regarding build plate size: For general use, I wouldn’t overestimate what you need. For me, 95% of the prints would easily fit on an A1mini. Of course it is convenient to still have a bigger plate, e.g. for printing multiple copies. I have very occasional prints where I really need the build volume. Often that is for narrow long parts, that I put diagonally on the plate. I think I never really missed an even bigger plate. For really big parts, I usually prefer combining 3d printing with other materials like wooden boards or acrylic plates. So I the printer only does the complex parts like hinges connectors etc.
A bigger printer also has some other downsides. E.g. build plates are considerably more expensive. I always cringe when a print sticks too hard to the plate and I have to scratch the surface to get it separated. I really don’t want to damage a H2 plate in an instant.
Also keep in mind that big print jobs will take several days.
I think, to justify the volume of an H2, I would ask if I have clear plans for projects that are impossible with a smaller printer. Maybe Cosplay equipment could be such a scenario where you want to print helmets in one piece.
And with mire exotic materials, it is very similar as with build volume: 97% of my prints are PLA or PETG, and print almost only functional parts. Occasionally I use PC when I need > 100°C temperature resistance and exceptional impact strength. Add a TPU print here and there. A PAHT-CF sits in my collection covering dust. I haven’t even opened it yet. PLA and PETG are very capable materials that easily cover most needs and cost a fraction of the more exotic stuff.
And I think the only material the doesn’t make much sense in the X2D are PPS and PPA. You usually have very specific requirements and know exactly what you want to do, when you need them.
Maybe you can lay out what exactly you plan to print?
I don’t want to deny, that the H2x might be the better choice for you. If that’s the case, I would really make possible a more adequate place for it. If not, I think the X2D is an extremely capable printer that can carry you very far. And at the price, you can’t make a big mistake. If you find out that an H2x would have been better, you don’t loose very much when selling the X2D, keep the AMS and get a H2x.
Here are some pictures of my setup. The printer also sits on 90kg kitchen rails with the board strengthened with aluminium extrusion at the bottom. I usually print with doors closed, that has a huge impact on noise. I only pull it out for changing filament in the lower AMS2 and for maintenance.
