I sold my X1C and want to get an H2 machine, but I’m still undecided whether to go for the H2D or the H2C.
A 10W laser module, 1x AMS Pro, and one AMS HT are definitely must-haves for me.
In general, I print a lot of engineering-grade plastics, along with various types of support and print materials. I also like printing TPU and TPC, as well as 2–4 color prints. A lot of colors are nice, but that’s not my main focus.
Which machine would you recommend: the H2D or the H2C?
In the long run, I’m a bit skeptical about the Vortec system, especially if you also use the machine for laser work and cutting… but I’m still completely undecided!
I had a similar question last year and ended up with the H2C, 2AMS 2, 1 AMS HT, 10 watt laser, cutting module.
Long story short: While somewhere around the 500h mark, I am having too much fun with the Vortek system to even think about installing the cutting module or laser atm Or putting in that roll of PEKK-CF I still have lying around
I fear that just when I am getting ready to play with the laser Bambu, will release the in-print multi-nozzle diameter capability which will set my non-FDM ToDo’s back another 6 months at least
I vote H2C! (full disclosure: I own one since early Dec.)
The Vortek has been flawless so far. And addictive to watch (or maybe that’s a negative?). For me it was just about worth the price of admission (over H2D) just to have 6 nozzles ready to go. Why not? I mean swapping the left side isn’t hard, but it’s easier not to. And swapping a nozzle or few in the rack is way quicker than one on the left.
Then there’s the multi-material w/out (as much) waste, which can add up over time, for the balance of the difference… in theory.
It’s not even much longer to swap filaments between induction nozzles than between left and right, in case all your filaments and nozzles are on the right side already, and you’re lazy like me.
Except you’ll want a bunch of induction nozzles, and those costs can add up pretty quick!
So, not that I have an H2D to compare to, but I have no regrets choosing the C.
I don’t plan to do any lasering in mine. IMHO the dirt generated isn’t really compatible with clean prints,. I already don’t enjoy cleaning the chamber, with all the surfaces and nooks all over. But that’s me. The blade cutter thing could be interesting though.
Only thing I regret getting from your list is the HT. But I’m done complaining about that for the week. .
Cheers,
-Max
PS. Oh right and when (not if! I’m an optimist!) mixing nozzle sizes in a one print becomes a thing, the C is going to have an even bigger advantage.
That is certainly dilemma! I first owned the H2D and I do want the features of the H2C. Multi color printing purge waste is unreal on some models. Some models I produce more waste than I print in the model. Also the speed, from what I understand if your AMS is dialed in with the tube length it can be much faster with the H2C just due to not having to purge as often. So the reduction in fillament waste and the potential for speed is very attractive. If you are doing 2-4 color prints I would go with H2C. Time is money! The laser stuff is nice but I don’t frequently use those functions, mostly because I can only afford the space for this one machine and it’s always printing unless down for maintenance.
Thanks for all your replies and for sharing your experiences. Your feedback really helped me make the decision. I ended up pre-ordering the H2C.
The reduced purge waste, the potential speed advantage, and especially the flexibility of having multiple nozzles ready to go were the main reasons for me. The laser and cutting features are interesting, but for my use case the H2C simply seems like the better fit right now.
Really looking forward to getting it and putting it to work. Thanks again for all the helpful input!
If you opt for H2C, be prepared for the induction heating element to constantly clog. You need to be especially careful during cleaning. This particular heating element got stuck while I was trying to cold draw the filament with the thinnest Allen wrench; I tried everything and couldn’t get it out, and unfortunately, I realized the heating element itself was rotating around its own axis. After all my efforts, I managed to get it out, but as you can see, it’s broken. For a job that costs $4 in my country, I’ll have to buy a heating element that costs the equivalent of $78 here, if I can even find one.
Not single clog for me (knocking on thick wood RN). PETG HF/Trans/CF, PLA T+/Matte, ASA, ASA Aero, TPU, PEBA, PC, some colorFabb stuff I’m not even sure what it is exactly… LOL.
What are you printing with?
Heating element is on the tool head…? Do you mean the outer black cylinder on bottom end?
Anyway, sorry to see that poor hotend in that state… You’re right, they’re not cheap. Was that a high flow one?
When I try to open the hotend by forcing the Allen key left and right, the marked parts start to rotate. I’ve had the H2C for 1.5 months and have a 124-hour print life. I’ve only printed with ASA, ABS, PETG, and PLA, and it’s clogged at least 5-6 times so far. I’ve only used PETG and PLA twice during this time. I only experience these clogging issues with the right nozzles; the left nozzle hasn’t clogged at all.
If you want laser, probably H2D, as the laser dust issue might be a problem for H2C. I have a Laser H2D and a normal H2C and perfectly happy with the setup.
Yea that’s no good… there are some thin thermistor wires running down to that tube from the circuit, and part of the shell should be contacting the heatsink via a little spring. So… not supposed to turn.
I can see how that connection between the upper part of the hotend and the heat sink could be a weak link. I assume it’s just friction fit and round… maybe some epoxy, IDK.
So, being careful when handling those is good advice. Thanks for the heads-up!
Still wonder why yours are clogging so much. Dried filament? Brand(s)? Seems like there “must” be some traceable difference, unless the manufacturing is just wildly inconsistent/different or something.
I don’t use filaments other than those from Bambu Lab and Polymaker. And I always dry them properly before using them, and when I’m not using them, I store them in vacuum bags.
The H2C is the better all around machine and will do perfect for engineering grade filament but I would stay far away from the laser module. As cool as it sounds, it makes a giant mess which leave a residue all over even with the proper ventilation.
Personally this is my take of it if you prioritize filament savings or want the best and newest get the h2d but if you would rather have more money to buy filament or you don’t care to have the extra nozzles get the h2d
I have the h2d and I use it for business so it has many hours I only make prints with 4+ colours and with my research the h2d would save me a bit of time and filament BUT it does cost a lot more so if you always need your printer running or you need it as efficient as possible like if you have a business then it my be worth it to pay more to get then little bit more efficiency but at the end of the day they are both great printers made under the same principle as a all in one machine and whatever you buy you will be happy with
Note something you should think about seeing the h2d and h2d are vary precise machines but there has been talk about the lasers fums adding residue into the printer and for you if you have the space it may be a good idea to look into getting a separate laser cutter it may save lots of cleaning and frustrations in the future
I have now already put the H2C into operation, and the prints are really great.
However, I’ve noticed that compared to the X1C, the H2C seems to “wobble” quite a bit more. During many short-cycle acceleration and braking movements, it appears to move by about 2–4 mm at the top side when viewed relative to the housing.
Or putting in that roll of PEKK-CF I still have lying around 
(full disclosure: I own one since early Dec.)
You’re right, they’re not cheap. Was that a high flow one?
