hi everyone.
I’m trying to run PETG-HF for the first time on my H2D with dual AMS Pros + an AMS-HT feeding the left nozzle through a 4-in-1 splitter. AMS-HT is online and shows up normally, but the PETG-HF filament is greyed out in Bambu Studio when I’m about to send it to the printer.
Swapped the filament in the AMS-HT to regular Bambu PLA, and it immediately became selectable. So the hardware, mapping, and AMS chain are all working — only PETG-HF won’t let me print. Looking for insight into why PETG-HF is flagged as unavailable on a hardened-steel left nozzle.
All parts in the printer are stock, OEM nozzle - hardened steel 0.4 standard.
I’d second that, it sounds like the print profile is set to PLA, so when you come to print it will only let you select PLA, graying out the other filaments.
In the prepare tab, change the filament in the middle left section to PETG, you probably need to sync the printer settings back to studio app, or perhaps you just opened someone else’s project file, from maker world for example. It contains there profile settings, likely they saved it with PLA as the print choice.
Thank you both! You were right - and I am new to PETG, so I didn’t know that.
Lastly, another question: if I were to get a high-flow hotend, would it work well in everyday printing with PLA, and are there any benefits or things to avoid? Worth investing in it?
I can only tell from X1C with E3D Obxidian high flow nozzle. Maybe the H2D nozzles behave quite differently.
I use only the Obxidian for all printing. Two drawbacks I see:
There is more oozing during preparation phase and sometimes poop lands on the build plate
It needs quite more flushing to really get rid of the old filament. so for multicolour prints with several filaments in one nozzle, it is a nogo.
Advantages:
strength / layer adhesion is much better with the Obxidian. I did many measurements with different filaments and the HF nozzle had a bit better layer adhesion at 70mm/s and stayed absolutely constant up to 300 mm/s. With the standard nozzle, it dropped gradually with higher speeds to 30% below the HF nozzle at 300mm/s.
of course much higher flow possible. Keep in mind that this only makes a difference for bigger prints. I typically increase layer height, line width and print speeds of internal lines. For smaller prints, that hardly makes a difference in pront time.
No idea which of those points also are relevant for H2D.
I could imagine that BambuLab have tuned the profiles so that the first point is a non issue. The other points might well apply too.
Maybe useful to mention about the HF nozzle size, that should preferably be 0.6.
Some posts I red suggests that 0.6 obxidian nozzle deliver same if not better print accuracy than the 0.4.
You need to select everything you want each time you basically want to print, filament, profiles etc. If you dont want to use the default studio settings that is. Royal pain int he backside to select everything, but thats the way it is.
I have a custom profile for my printer, nozzle and filament, I have to make sure its all set up right before clicking slice model, its just something you get used to doing.
Yup, thats the way to fix it. I was just curious as to what the original poster was using, as that could be an easy spot.
I spent a lot of time printing the same sample print over and over, which I got roasted for lol
I have found the P2 profiles to be completely wrong, it uses 230 nozzle temp for PETG HF, and it needs 245 to 250, clumping is most likely too low a nozzle temp.
Also PETG needs the following
No ZHOP
retraction of 0.5-0.7mm (play with this setting)
retact on layer change,
wipe on layer change
40mm2 retraction speed,
Basically, when the nozzle stops printing you pull back the filament hard and fast,
Cold nozzle temp causes clumping, too hot and it doesnt dry on the bed fast enough lol
But my experience is based on a P2S, the default profiles are not right at all. But I can’t comment on other models.
But based on other forum posts, I’d say there are other models that have bad profiles.
Also, the Bambu profile does not work for other brands, the generic one is better, but if you want to use other brands of filament, you really need to customise the profile.
Esun for example, have a downloadable config file.
Had the exact same issue with my A1 and the same AMS configs. I’m staring at it like I haven’t run into this problem before. After checking the profile again I realized my error I had to reslice.