Its definitely too wet, but that may not be everything. You can tell it needs to be dried by zooming in to your picture and looking for the remnants of the bubbles that are generated when the air/water bubbles burst. I see pot holes, so I can say with certainty, it needs to be dried.
However, I don’t think that is the whole problem. The welding like extrusion is odd. I don’t know what causes that, but I’m curious if you changed the volumetric speed or just the basic speed settings? Could also be a partial clog, but something is causing the extrusion to be a little intermittent.
So I am not the only one. I am wondering, why not any of all the influencer noticed this giant failure. I am now struggling with my ticke at the bambu lab support.
That reviewer is a resin printing guy. Meaning he’s not very good with FDM machines (or at least that is my take on his other FDM reviews). He’s not wrong that the basic settings could create a problem with filaments the are not compatible, but he doesn’t understand why. To his credit, he says that he doesn’t know or want to know how to fix it, so I can’t blame him for saying “I just expect it to work”.
So, back to the real problem. Some materials simply don’t stick to others. That’s just how things work. There’s no magical setting that can be made to change that. However, there are things you can do to work around it as much as possible. I suggest people slow down the prime tower’s print speed, and the interface layer’s print speed. Its not a magic bullet, but I think it improves consistency. What this does is give the different filaments every opportunity to stay were they are laid. It doesn’t guarantee it, just gives it the best chance.
Even more useful (if the print geometry allows) is turning off the prime tower. Doing this will generally be the most reliable, but it will likely make the print a little messy with little artifacts here and there, or under-extrusion in places. Also note, slowing down the interface layer is also suggested if you are using different filaments for supports and the interface.
These two things will help in getting the print to finish, but you’ll also want to make sure you don’t have other issues. When I saw your initial pictures and description of the problem, I assumed the bed needed a cleaning. Because if the whole tower pulled off, it suggests the bed had fingerprints or oils which inhibited the grip. Quite frankly, the tower is started and the base is laid in the primary filament. So, if the whole thing pulls off, it likely didn’t have a clean area to start with. I do find that a simple touch of your face and then the bed is enough to create a problem. So, be sure to get that plate clean before starting.
Thank you for your reply. As the guy at YouTube demonstrates pva is not working with the h2d, that’s my point. I really tried every magic I get over my printing time. Sometimes it clogging the nozzle sometimes it doesn’t adhesion.
Have you tried pva at this printer ? I would be very excited about your experience.
With the prints I have no adhesion problem to the plate, as I am cleaning it after every print.
As i mentioned I use the same parameters at my p1S with not problems.
I’m wondering if PVA needs custom filament end gcode to bring it down to standby temperature so it doesn’t cook in the nozzle. Can you see what that nozzle is set at when it’s printing the PLA?
Personally, I will not use PVA (which is glue stick in filament form) in my H2D. Its too problematic. If you print it too hot, it clogs and is a nightmare. Some clogs will permanently set in the system and cause you to have to replace the filament path that is clogged (including nozzles). PVA requires you to dry, dry, dry it or it won’t even get to the nozzle right (too much tension). Plainly, its a nightmare filament. Tried it once in my P1S and it worked, but I could see hints that it was not something I wanted to use again.
Its just too problematic for me. Also, I only print things I design, and I never design things that require that. I don’t mind breakaway support materials and will use those when needed. The older Support for PLA, was pretty good and consistent, and I’m waiting for a need to try the new one.
Back to the adhesion point, I hate to say it. But if anything ever comes off the plate, 95% likely something was on the plate where that came up (but note ASA/ABS/PC/Nylon are different). That tower you mentioned before, was it the entire tower that came up, or just a piece of it? If it was just a piece of it, your cleaning might be fine, but if the whole thing came up, I would think you missed a spot.
I don’t see a reason that will make it work in one printer and not another. But I would set it up to have the PVA in the external filament spool path (right nozzle) and the other filament in the other path (left nozzle - AMS OK). Make sure the PVA is fully dried as well. High moisture, will make it drag in the filament path and can cause a clog. But be aware, PVA takes on water 3x faster than Nylon. That is significant, because Nylon is largely seen as the worst at that. So do whatever you can to keep it dry when printing.
I’ve printed extensively with PVA without any issues, but I use custom settings specifically tuned for projects where PVA is used only as support material.
PVA should be used exclusively for support purposes in 3D printing, and ideally just as an interface layer between the model and the main support. It’s not suitable for printing entire objects or large support structures, as this often results in instability, clogs, or failed prints.
As a test, I printed this model – D20 inside Icosahedron – using PVA for all supports, following the exact settings from Bambu Lab’s official guide. It worked great, but only because the filament was absolutely dry and the printer was tuned accordingly.
On a side note, I also use PVA when fishing—it’s incredibly effective for baiting a specific spot, as it dissolves cleanly in water. But in 3D printing, it requires more care: limited, strategic use is key.
Lastly, and most importantly, never load PVA into your printer unless it’s completely dry. Moist PVA tends to stick inside the PTFE tube and will almost certainly clog your nozzle and/or extruder.
When properly dried, PVA prints beautifully—when wet, it causes nothing but trouble.
Just a quick question out of curiosity as I’ve never used PVA, what is the benefit over just using filament as support cause looking at the price on Bambu Labs site, it certainly isn’t the price point…
It is water soluble and hence removal is easier and cleaner than even PETG.
Personally however, I’d not go for PVA. I have found BVOH much easier to work with when PETG can’t do the job.
As already mentioned, it’s water-soluble and leaves no marks on the model.
However, even the slightest humidity will make it sticky and cause clogs all the way from your AMS to the nozzle.
Once I’ve dried it thoroughly, I avoid handling it with my bare hands.
If there could be custom slower speed settings that kick in for only just the interface region, that would be the most useful.
Just checked. Looks as though there is:
So, by default, the support interface is already slowed down to 80mm/sec. We should drop that to what? roughly half that? More? Less? Anyone found a magic number they like when doing a PETG/PLA build/support combo?
I bought this machine hoping this would be one of the killer apps.
When I was playing around with PETG and PLA I found things were pretty consistent at 25 mm/sec.
But if I’m honest, the failure rate was already low, I just noticed the filament being dragged without sticking a lot and decided to try and slow down the critical points.
Also, dependent on the geometry, even 25mm/sec only added a few mins (15mins on a 1-hour long print). I probably could have got away with 50 mm/sec though.
I have never sad that my tower or the prints came up from the plate. The pva do not stick on the interface layer.
As I know dryness is key, I handle pva with care.
I made hundreds of prints with pva for support material for my prints and in the past it works perfectly. I bought the h2d to decrease the printing time significantly due to the dual nozzles and the resulting reduced changing time.
Unfortunately I have to go back to my p1S for this kind of prints.
Any idea why it wouldn’t be possible to print PVA with the H2D?
I’ve printed PVA without any issues on both my old Prusa MK3S and my X1 Carbon—once everything was properly tuned. On the Prusa, I even printed entire models in PVA that I used as bait dispersers when I was out fishing.
I haven’t received my H2D 40W Laser yet, so I haven’t been able to test it myself, but it’s interesting to see that so many people are having trouble specifically with PVA.
One filament I’ve never had consistent results with is ASA Aero—it really feels like playing filament roulette. I’ve tested every setting imaginable. Since Aero foams based on temperature, maybe it will behave better on the H2D with a heated chamber. Time will tell…
Before you give up, I’d strongly recommend that you either find a buddy or make a buddy who has the same machine as you and get him to run your .3mf project file and see whether or not it results in the same outcome for him as it does for you. As a pure act of kindness I did this for another H2D user recently (as documented on one of my other threads), and even though he had nothing but repeated failures (warping and repeated print adhesion problems galore leading to print detachments from the build plate), I encountered none of that and it printed just fine for me. We then hunted for each and every difference that we could think of, and in the end it surfaced a lot of differences that he had never mentioned or even thought to mention. If you’re stuck, this may be the fastest way out of being stuck if you’ve hit a brick wall and aren’t making any forward progress. Far faster than the usual 20 questions that are de rigueur on this forum, and more thorough also.
okay, sry i should have read everyting here, but i did not…
My opinion is that this thread here is more importened than some “heated bed problems” that are clearly not there as far as i can tell for the H2D.
Bambu lab tuned the filaments and stuff so that they just work…
it is okay if it is not perfect quality but it should at least work…
as far as i can tell, my H2D can not print PVA. And yes, i am talking about the RFID Filament bambu labs sells. I have 4 of those spools and the H2D can not print with it…
they realy should fix that so that it WORKS.
i am just glad that the expensive support filament for PLA/PETG works fine, otherwise it would realy suck…
please dont close that thread, because if in the future i have to use thhat PVA filament i am going to ask for advice here how to tune my print settings.
(took pictures already of the advice tuning someone postet here)
I have unfortunately no update from the customer service regarding the PVA adhesion problem. Furthermore, I’ve been experiencing persistent print failures, as if I were using a printer from the early 2010s.
Yesterday, I got 0.8 mm nozzles. I use them usually for transparent prints. First problem @H2D there is no profil for 0.8 mm nozzles fpr PETG! Hence, I took the one I use @P1S.
As I already noted in one of my other posts, the flow calibration is odd.
Something is definitely not right here. Consequently, the result is miserable.
I have an image of the same component—P1S on top and H2D on the bottom. As you can see, there are clear printing defects. The parts were made from the same filament (same spool). Furthermore, I see that the PETG is lifting and causing stringing.
If you hadn’t said it was the same spool, I would have guessed that the bottom print was from a spool that needed drying. It sure looks like signature filament wetness. Well, only you would know.
Not likely to work as a drop-in. With a new nozzle, I expect you may need to go through the whole filament dial-in process using calibration models. Well, the good news is that on the H2D, you don’t have to for pressure advance (because the automatic calibration for that seems to work pretty well–just remember to turn it ON after slicing and just prior to sending your print to the H2D by selecting it under Print Options in the dialog box), but you still need to for, at minimum flow rate (which, you’re in luck the H2D Bambu slicer provides a manual calibration tool for you to use), but also maximum flow rate (not in luck. you’ll have to find something on makerworld–I found one that worked for PLA but the same author’s PETG version didn’t seem to work on the H2D, IIRC), temperature tower (also not in luck. Current state of the art seems to be this:
). You might also need a different dial-in for first layer PETG on H2D: I’m in the middle of figuring that one out myself. AFAIK, the Bambu H2D slicer allows for this first layer difference, but I haven’t yet tested that aspect of it.
And that’s just for starters. Then you’ll need to dial-in a custom process profile for your 0.8mm nozzle if you want to get the most out of it. For that, others will need to advise.
I’m not defending the status quo, just explaining it as best I understand it. I’m not a know-it-all by any means, and I hope I don’t come across that way. I’m just trying to be helpful.
If anyone has a contrary or otherwise different point of view, please do post it. And if I’m flat out wrong, please do call me on it. We’re all swimming in the same pool, and so maybe we can help each other out by sharing whatever methods/techniques we’ve learned/adopted that seem to work well with dialing in a new filament or nozzle on H2D. I like that @Michael4 isn’t afraid to push the envelope and thereby help blaze the trail. Since that benefits all of us, we should do our best to support his attempt. In return, I hope @Michael4 will at least report back what does or doesn’t work as his minimum quid pro quo, as that’s not really asking much.
Anyhow, I’ve so far gotten good results dialing in a new HS-PLA filament, despite the obstacles, and I’m part-way through dialing in a new HS-PETG filament:
