I have about 700h on my H2d. It’s in my apartment in the same place it has always been and now all the sudden it starts tripping the breaker at startup during the heatbed’s high wattage usage in a room where nothing else is using power! It has never done this before! I have a custom order to fill so I got an idea to preheat the bed to 70c manually before starting the print. At the start of the print the H2D inside light just blinked and kept going until the bed leveling began then the breaker tripped again.
I’m at a loss it seems crazy that seemingly out of nowhere this just starts happening. I guess I am going to have to try a different plug circuit or something but the H2D is so heavy to move. What else can I do? Get a UPS?
Here’s a picture of the circuit breaker box. Let me know if anything stands out.
Looks as though it’s not just a breaker, but an arc faulty breaker. So, maybe you have a loose connection somewhere in your circuit that’s causing some amount of arcing.
Another possibility is that the breaker has gone bad and needs replacement.
When arc faulty breakers were first introduced and required by NEC code, they had the reputation fo being “twitchy”. If yours is one of those, replacing it with the current generation might solve the problem.
But if you live in am apartment, it’s likely the landlords responsibility to hire an electrician to diagnose and repair, provided you’re sure you have no other loads on the same circuit.
As @NeverDie said, arc fault breakers are notorious for nuisance tripping. You could try a clamp meter w/ receptacle adapter or a Kill-a-Watt or similar to measure current at the wall.
You can also plug in a Ting. It listens for arcing over all your circuits and will let you know if it hears any. My homeowner’s insurance gave it to me for free, but Ting also sells to consumers.
Thanks for the responses it should be a good help to show maintenance as soon as I can call them… I gotta cleanup around here first I got rolls of filament and order boxes stacked in the living room to clear out. I guess I could move the H2D to a different plug/circuit for now if I can get some help moving it.
@Skampster
Glad I dont. Its a good tradeoff. Dont you guys pay more for stuff than any other country? I think you guys pay 2x-3x for electricity. Ill take my 110v for .11cents/kw. We have the metric system too. We use both.
Have you ever factored in electricity cost per print? I bet some prints cost you $5 in electricity
Yeah, Ive seen the horror stories of your free medical system. If you live outside sydney or Melbourne you are screwed. Not for me. But back to the issue it is 99% probability of the ■■■■ arc fault breaker going bad. Get a 16g extension cord, shortest that will work, and plug into an outlet on a different breaker. See it it trips that one. I wouldnt run long term, but its a test run. If it works, see if apartment maintenance will replace.
If you have the AMS plugged into the same circuit, try moving them to another one. Help reduce it a little. That of course is if you have the second AMS plugged into a power supply, if not, ignore.
Get a extension coord for a little trouble shooting and plug it into another outlet (preferably in another room) and the plug into h2d and see if problem gets fixed
Make sure if you do that it is rated for 20 amps. IOW it needs to be made with 12 gauge wire at the minimum, 14 gauge is only 15 amps and can overheat.
May not work for all filaments but I use a super tack cold plate on my X1C and print PLA at room temps and never lost a print using 20 C temp filament settings. You’ll eliminate bed heating this way.
In the US, you won’t find a 20 amp extension cord except for RV cords. All are ‘rated’ for max 15 amp even those that use 12g wire. You CAN use a short cord, (25 ft length) that uses 16g with these printers. Wire size should be 14g for a 25ft if you are going to really use 20amps. You shouldn’t be really getting over 11 or 12 amp draw. And you can’t heat with the AMS while the printer is running, so you do NOT need to move those to another circuit.
They make 10/3 cords that will handle 20 amps, you might be thinking the generator cords. RV cords are up to 50 amps, and use special plugs that split 120 120 neutral ground, but NOT 220. There are generator cords that handle 30 amps, and there are some that handle 20 amps with the standard 15 amp plug. The main reason its rated 15 amps is so that they aren’t connected to a 15 amp circuit and draw 20 amps. Only way to know if a circuit is 20 amp, besides looking at the breaker, or the wires is if they used an actual 20 amp outlet where one leg has a T for input.
What I was saying is if you USE an extension cord for this, use one that is at minumun 12 gauge wire. Keep it at 25’ or less.
20a 250V, NOT 20A 120V and the other has the 20A ends. Neither will plug into ANY normal household outlet. Just sayin. That is what I meant. Heck you can make one with 15a plugs, but not needed. Neither is 12g wire.
