Curious what others are using for profiles for printing ABS.
I come from a couple of Vorons and with those machines I usually get the chamber as hot as I can, set the min layer time to around 12-15 seconds and run the part fan at the minimum constant speed required for the print speed and the size of the part.
Well I decided to get a H2S because I was tired of having to mess around with speeds/accels and fan speeds all the time and was hoping that going the Bambu route would alleviate some of that stuff.
Right now I am not happy at all, I have tried printing stuff from maker world through my phone to the printer and have also tried by slicing my own files.
The default 0.2mm profile and the chamber set to 65c printing Sunlu ABS that I always use for all my ABS prints on other machines I am getting really bad print quality. Suffering from a lot of Z-banding and with the default profile I am having to run the part cooling fan upwards of 80% for the whole print. The same temp I use on the Voron with Sunlu ABS (270c) on the bambu the filament is coming out way more glossy than it would on the Voron at 270c and 200mm/s wall speed which is a sign the filament is hot. There is also not only the z banding but signs of the print getting too hot.
For the size of the part I was printing (Stealthburner face) with the default profile I didn’t start to get acceptable print quality and a loss of sheen like I expect until I set the fan to run at 80% the whole time which to me seems pretty high.
Right now I am trying a print with slower wall speeds,less accel and 45% constant fan and will report back but this is not at all what I expected, I feel like if I have to mess with all these speeds/accels and fan speed’s I might as well just keep using my voron.
Is there anything I can print off makerworld in ABS that others print with their H2S that I could compare with?
The chamber is being heated to 65°C which is less than on the Voron I guess, so that’s means less cooling. And maybe 270°C on the Voron is 260°C on the H2S.
I haven’t printed ABS on my H2C yet except for ABS-GF which looked good (but GF/CF always looks good), but I have to print some parts this week in normal ABS. I’ll see how that goes and let you know.
Got about 900hrs on my H2S now, with 80% of that printing in black ABS so hopefully experienced enough to help!
I have used Bambu, Sunlu, Elegoo and lastly JAYO ABS. I haven’t changed any other settings other than those. My parts can come out shiny material dependant.
I used Bambu’s ABS profile as the base for the others and the only thing I have changed is increasing the bed tempreature by 10°C.
I print ABS regularly on my H2D with the standard Bambu profile. I’ve yet to have a failed print and am very happy with the results. I came from a home brew 3D printer to the Bambu so found it a night and day experience with ABS.
I run at 63c on the Voron since I have a lot of fans inside the chamber that circulate the heat from the bed, I have also tried 265 first layer and 250 for the remainder with the same result.
I am working on trying to get some pictures right now. Seems that pictures are masking most of the issue but let me see if I can get some uploaded here soon.
The above pictures are the default Bambu 0.2 Print profile only thing changed was the wall count and top bottom layer count. Fan was set to 65% and if you pay close attention there is still signs of the ABS overheating based on the areas that look “melted”
The pictures look better than in actual person.
I did another print last night, I slowed down the inner wall to 150mm/s and did the outer wall at 60mm/s and dropped the fan to 45% and it looked a bit better.
I started another print this morning leaving everything at default, chose the bambu ABS profile and only changed the flow ratio and increased the bed temp. I am sure it’s gonna turn out really bad.
You guy are saying you are using the default bambu profile for ABS but the default profile varies the fan speed too much for ABS. It’s generally known you really want to run a consistent fan speed with ABS.
This is what the default Bambu ABS profile looks like with the part I am printing. This from everything I have learned is generally not advised.
I have printed only about 10 hours worth of ABS on my H2S and just used the default ABS settings printing Bambu ABS white. Printed incredibly perfect. Used the 1.6 layer lines (I think) settingings for some prints. Again beyond perfect.
Filament was super dry, never messed with a single setting.
I mean this part is a Part directly pulled from the Voron Github and I have printed this part on other printers without issues.
The part looks worse in person the pictures really do seem to mask the issues but you can clearly see where it just seems to be too hot.
I did print a poop chute out of this same ABS that does show some weird outer wall issues so Maybe I can post that up when I can grab a picture of it.
The part shows all the sign’s of ABS overheating to me and that was with the fan speed at 65% the whole print.
I have also tried printing this directly from my phone and get the same result.
You need to tweak the temperatures in the bambu ABS profile to match whatever brand of ABS you are using either by doing some googling or going by manufacturer recommendation, there is way too much variance in ABS blends between brands to just use the Bambu profile with Sunlu, Polymaker or Inland ABS in my experience if you want better than adequate results (your photos look totally adequate and I’d use those prints you showed on personal stuff without thinking twice about it but I’d be apprehensive selling prints looking like that).
Also the auto pressure advance calibration done at the beginning of each print is trash IMO for non bambu filament and I manually run the automatic flow dynamics cal and save the K value manually to the AMS per brand and color of ABS I run if its not bambu. Make sure you run this with the proper print profile selected so it runs at the correct temperature otherwise your K value will be off.
Here are some examples of my post profile adjustment and calibration prints, the dark purple is polymaker ABS and the lighter purple is Fusion ASA, the polymaker was printed at 265-270c with the temperature and aux fan settings being the only thing I changed in the profile + the calibrations I mentioned above (aux fan cause I have a aux fan filter mod installed and nobody wants ABS fumes).
In short If you want zero effort high quality prints using the Bambu profile without any changes what so ever, you are going to have to run Bambu filament, otherwise print a temp tower and do a few flow rate and pressure advance calibration cycles instead of asking why profiles made for a different brand of filament don’t work optimally.
Honestly as a Voron owner and user I’m kind of surprised you don’t already know this.
Edit: found my sunlu profile after making this post but I couldn’t find any printed examples around the house, my sunlu HS-ABS profile has a nozzle temp of 275 so even higher than what you were running and I haven’t had issues like you’ve shown, I wonder if your layer times are too short as all my ABS prints so far have been fairly large.
Also since I forgot to mention it, I have a H2C and I generally print all my ABS stuff out of a .4mm tungsten carbide nozzle which would make overheating even worse compared to a stock hardened steel nozzle as tungsten carbide has a much better heat transfer rate than steel, so I’m guessing your layer times are too short on that stealthburner.
I think you are didn’t quite understand me, I was previously not using the bambu abs filament profile, I was using my own filament profile based on how I know the Sunlu ABS behaves.
I did a flow rate calculation and was within 1% of the flow rate that I get on my voron. 0.0932
I fully understand layer times, the short layer time on this part was 12 seconds, 65% fan speed and 270c on the nozzle which is exactly where this Sunlu ABS has always worked best for me.
I sent another print this morning with the default bambu profile as a test with my verified flow ratio of 0.0932 and left everything else default in the filament profile. For this part that will run 100% fan speed for the majority of the part as shown in my screenshot I posted above.
FYI the sliced layer time on this part for the majority of the print is well over 12 seconds but it wants to run the fan at 100% most of the print. This also kinda confirms that the default standard print profile is too fast for this size of part and the layer time involved. Kinda weird though since the layer time is over 12 seconds. So to me I am either gonna have to make my own print profile with either way less speed, more layer time or less overall flow to slow this thing down.
Rather disappointing honestly.
I did the flow dynamics calibration for this sunlu filament and it printed one little line and spit out 0.017 for the K value.
In that case it looks like it may be a quirk of the H2S having higher acceleration limits than the H2D and H2C due to the smaller and lighter toolhead, you might want to try using the settings from a profile for the H2D or H2C as when I slice that same file I’m getting minimum layer times of around 15 seconds.
Since its only a 40g print and I need more excuses to convert my old delta into a voron I’m gonna go ahead and try printing it to see how it comes out with my rather hot print settings compared to yours.
Also sorry for assuming you didn’t try doing the basic tweaks at first, I read your original post as if you had just run the default profile.
No worries, I will mess around with it some more tonight.
I have seen some posts about the part cooling fan not being as good on the H2S as the H2D. Now I do not own an H2D to compare so I cannot say whether that is true or not.
Tonight I am going to increase the min layer time to 18 seconds or maybe 20 and test again.
With ABS on my voron I slow the print down and leave the fan speed alone.
I am just gonna have to learn this machine but I got it hoping I would not have to do any of that stuff. On my Voron I print this same part at 200mm/s for all features and 14k inner outer wall accel and part cooling at a static 45% and a layer time of 15 seconds.
I will try increasing layer time first and go from there because if I can get it to do what I want by just increasing the short layer time then I am OK with that.
well the test print just finished, looks like the posts you read about the H2S having a weak part cooling fan may be right as my print doesn’t have the soft edges yours does even though I printed this one at 280c, though I’m sure the longer layer times helps too.
I took some pics from similar angles to the ones you posted but angled to try and highlight the layer lines so you can compare.
Thank you for testing this out, it does look a bit better and does not suffer from lack of cooling that I can see.
You have an H2C correct? What fan speed was most of that ran at?
I am running a test part right now with all speeds set to 200mm/s and layer time set to 18 seconds to see what the result is.
Theres a screenshot of my fan speeds, its a lot more varied than your pic so its looking like the H2S’ part cooling fan just isn’t strong enough for max speed prints and yes I have a H2C.
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