Well I bought the H2S to replace my X1C so I could print my parts full size instead of splitting them in half. I was also excited about switching from PLA to ABS with he heated chamber and all but i have had zero luck getting a good print that doesn’t warp off the plate.
I gave up on ABS and switched back to PLA and even PLA is warping.
Ive tried the stock plate and a KDEAVI plate. no luck.
With ABS I tried a 65c chamber temp and a 110c build plate. No luck.
With PLA I have tried up to a 70c build plate. No luck.
I tried wiping the plate with glue stick and no luck.
Should I try a heated chamber with PLA? Running out of ideas here.
The part is full plate width theres no room on the sides for a brim. I can add one to the front and back but I’ll be surprised if it helps. I will try though. I was doing that on the ABS prints and it did not solve the issue for ABS.
The size of your part is a big influencer of warping.
You now make a part that is twice as long than in your previous printer.
That including the flat top is a guarantee for warping.
You could definitely try to reduce the cooling in case of PLA. The H2x series have very good cooling, that might work against you in this case.
But if you prefer your part in ABS, I would first try to chase that path.
With the chamber heating you should be able to print with minimal warp.
Additionally a CF or GF version of ABS would definitely help against warping.
Adding Mickey Mouse ears or a brim is another helpful function to keep the part on the plate.
I don’t know the KDEAVI plate, but Textured or Smooth PEI should be able to handle ABS fine.
As a last resort you can try to break long flat surfaces with little grooves that are a fraction deeper than the top layer thickness. This breaks the huge long faces and helps against warping.
I assume you cleaned your PEI plate with the cheapest dish cleaner that doesn’t contain additives to protect your skin (that is usually oily additives).
I did read instructions and no i dont use alcohol. and it doesnt say anything about not using glue stick. And since it did not work and i was out of options even with PLA I tried some of the bambu glue stick which will wipe right off with hot water.
Exactly, which is why I was skeptical before i even bought tthe H2S and i left a post in here asking if anyone thinks my full size part would warp and everyone said it wouldn’t so i pulled the trigger and bought one. Ive been 3d printing since 2009 so i know all about warping. Back then all we had was ABS.
I started with ABS that was my hope but there seems to be no chance of that working so I reverted to PLA and even that is warping.
With ABS i tired multiple times and ended up with a plate temp od 110 and chamber of 65c and still no luck.
So at this point i just want anything to work. I figured PLA is my best chance at no warping if I can figure out a solution. I was goign to try heating the chamber a bit and see how that works.
Unfortunately each test takes 10 hours.
I have a lot going against me… Full width, 80% of the bottom surface is support material, and the corners are rounded.
I will try a brim (it will add a brim to front and back but not the sides) and increase the initial layer flow ratio to 1.1. I will reduce the bed temperature back down to 65, chamber temp 0. I cleaned the plate with hot water and wiped off all the glue stick since that didn’t help any. I guess worst case i could make my own break away supports on the corners of the model.
@VictorLagina - per KDEAVI instructions on selecting plate based on filament type - all that does is tell bambu studio which plate temp settings to use from the filament profile. No need if you are manually adjusting the temps yourself.
Have you tried lowering the bed temperature instead of raising it. High bed temperatures in the past were used to indirectly heat the chamber. Something that the H2S doesn’t require.
Which brand and type ABS are you using?
And which profile?
And with this part size, the amount of part cooling can be lowered.
I also use a deflector for the auxiliary fan, to deflect the air stream upwards.
But there should be people here that have more experience with large ABS parts.
I print only ASA and usually no large parts.
Still with your large part a GF/CF filled filament would be a strong consideration.
Full width part… going to be tough to get a nearly perfectly flat part. How much warp is too much in your view?
Also, make sure you machine is no where near an open window or AC vent. With the printer opening up and drawing ambient air in, you don’t want cool air sources near by.
yeah, unfortunately the H2S only came with a textured plate so thats out and the KDEAVI has the smoothest surface of the plates I have. I will be ordering a smooth plate from bambu if they have one for the H2S
I have not tried lowering the temp with ABS but it failed and then i kept raising it. It is Hatchbox ABS.
I am using the .16 High Quality Profile.
At this point though I have switched my focus to PLA because ABS was giving me too much trouble and was hoping PLA would at least get me some non warped results. I am going to keep at it on PLA and once I can get that reololved I will change back to ABS or some of the other filament options you all have suggested.
