Same here. The screen looks fine. If I really look closely with reading glasses maybe. But if no one mentioned it I would not have known the screen resolution changed.
Just for gets and shingles I am trying PETG and TPU90 with no interlocking geometry…want to see if it just sticks with the heated plastics…I guess mesh would be the term? Let ya know in 9 hours…
Noticable, but still readable. If I had not known it was lower I would assumed the plastic cover was still to peel off, or something.
I would compare it to 1080P monitor vs phone screen/4K. One one, you can see the pixels, or a fuzzing around curves. On the other, you cannot.
If you don’t care about the visible pixels on a 1080P screen, or you can’t see them, then you’ll be fine (and also you might want to get an eye test in the latter case).
Lol, how about testing a 20mm cube or something
THAT would actually be the smart thing to do…but I also want to feel the final model so…I’m an idiot?..
…hey it builds suspense…
Tried it already a while ago on RC tank tracks, It does not stick enough for driving the vehicle. It don’t remember if it sticks when printed or not, so it may work for display models, i could not say
Good to know. Thank you for posting that! 
These are static parts so not a lot of friction or lateral pull I think…I prepped model with a small 2mm beam just in case.
Right now the dovetails models I printed? I can fell the indentations of the dovetails…if neither of these work then I will start playing with the infill to get rid of the underlying ridges.
I didn’t think much about it, but I was kind of surprised when I started seeing mention of PLA as a support material for TPU. I don’t have much experience with TPU and never did support stuff. I feel like the 75a TPU sticks so well to PLA though, and that’s why it surprised me. I’ve been making models, just butting them right up against each other, and it’s been awesome. I’m glad it sticks so well with 75a because of how I’ve been using it, and want to use it.
TPU does stick to PLA but you can usually peel it away. If you want to combine them permanently “beam interlocking” will combine TPU with any other filament via mechanical interlocks that are automatically generated in BS. I’ve used that feature to print PA + TPU and PPS + TPU etc.
Ohh, interesting. Will need to check that out more. When I was reading about beam interlocking, I was thinking about something else. Now that I’ve checked out the wiki though, hmm. 
Was this done with standard filament colors or did you do the entire thing in CMYK?
Kinda off the subject but the top end of your P2S is really nice. Is there somewhere I can get the print file from? Thanks for your H3 input also.
I need to see the failure modes. I bought two Snapmaker U1s because on paper they are great. In reality they are ■■■■ because of their ambiguous error modes that pause prints, with no evidence of an actual problem.
How are the H3C failure modes? It’s important to know. Toolhead crashes, false positive clogs, snags.Things can’t be perfect.
Yea I ran the scenario…Beam Interlocking added another 2 hours to the model so I am trying to figure out a better solution…
And yea…TPU does not stick to PETG with out some kind of mechanical bonding…sad fail…
BLV riser…it’s in Maker World…be forwarned! This needs to be printed in PETG and TPU…around 4 days total…4 rolls of PETG…and some 2mm magnets…it’s a project so do not commit unless you want it…
Then the top was a different file and that was a challenge…had to modify the CAD to get it to fit even thought the author said there was no problem with the profile…grrr..
Here is the riser:
I will try and track down the shelf…
Jim, where did you get the tables you’re using for your printers. I’ve been wanting to get something that’s lower than the 34" high tool box I’m using. I want to see into the AMS’s on my H2 printers.
Can anyone confirm if you have a combo of ABS, ASA, PLA loaded up in the spool holders you can still press print? Does it physically FORCE you to remove them before starting the heated chamber? Or does it just warn you?
I would really appreciate it if someone could test for me please as we were considering one for work where we all print in various materials quite frequently. I know about putting an AMS to slot 1, but that is not my ask. Thanks
+1 on that question. I figured a seperate drying solution is now mandatory with the AMS only drying 2 filaments at a time. Even worse would be if you had to pull them out everytime.
If only there was something like the sunlu i10 but not from sunlu lmao.
I sliced and printed with CMYK, Bambu’s PLA Palette filament.
I use this table
I did shore up the back a little bit to make it more sturdy. It’s even shorter without the caster wheels, as it also comes with normal feet.