I have tried everything. I am printing on the P2S. I have had it since the 30th of December. I only print PLA and sometimes ABS. I print toys and mechanical parts. It started when I tried printing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5029537. Then I tried to print a flexy rex (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2738211) and it also failed some layers in. I have scrubbed my build plate (textured PEI) with dish soap and water, added glue, then more glue, then I changed the build plate temp. Then I changed the first layer height, then I changed the line width to 0.8mm!!! After all of this it still was not fixed the first layer TOTALY failed!!! So as a last resort I reran all of the calibration. I did the high temperiture bed leveling, normal bed leveling, vibration compensation, adaptive motor noise cansilation. This I thought fixed it until I printed the P2S camera hiding part that was included in the internal storage yet see the picture to see what happened. Now what do I do!!? If anyone has had this issue and has resolved it or hasn’t I want to here. Maybe if you have this issue and haven’t been able to resolve it we can put our heads together or someone can help us all out.
Thanks,
Redneck Wrencher.
P.S. I have printed most of these things PERFECTLY on my crappy, compared to the P2S, Prusa MK3s+!! My head is about to explode!!!
P.P.S. I print with Sunlu pla and Comgrow shiny silk mostly.
The secret weapon is to use a sponge with an abrasive pad on one side. Soak the sponge with hot tap water and dish soap and lightly scrub it while running hot tap water over the plate to rinse as you go. You do not want to scrub hard, a very light pressure (just barely more than holding it). This will put very light scratches in the surface that will rejuvenate the PEI.
Failing this suggestion I’ve got nothing. It works great for me…
I think you’ve misunderstood something. Although it’s called glue, its purpose is NOT to make things stick better, but rather to make them easier to remove. It acts as a separating layer.
So, the more you apply, the worse it sticks. The days of using glue for PLA are long gone. Especially with such modern printing plates which are specially optimized for this purpose without using glue.
Glue should only be used if there’s a risk the material will stick so firmly to the plate it can’t be removed without damaging it.
However, I can understand your perspective: it is unfortunate that it is called a “glue” rather than a “separating layer for easier removal.” The more glue you applied, the worse you probably made it, so that nothing sticks anymore.
Otherwise, I can only recommend that you take a look at the wiki. You’ll find lots of information there:
Yes my bad. First The line width was to try and increase the “squish” to maybe get it to stick better. About the fails It was the parts getting nocked off the plate as the print got higher. As you asked here are some pics
Absolutely never, ever, use Scotch-Brite green pads on PEI!!!
Ask me how I know?
Answer: I have ruined one side of my original Bambu PEI build plate. Scotch-Brite green pads are aggressive abrasives intended for hard surfaces like metal and some glass cooktops. They are NOT intended for polymer coatings like PEI that rely on a controlled micro-texture for adhesion.
Don’t get me wrong, I keep boxes of both the green and red pads on hand, along with the dual sponges shown above. They are excellent for cleaning cast iron barbecue grill grates, but they permanently alter surface finishes and will destroy PEI texture.
Here’s a comparison. On the bottom is a 2025 Creality textured PEI 350 mm plate. On top is a 2023 Bambu P1P build plate that was later replaced by the gold version. Those of us who have both the original black and the newer gold plates will tell you the gold coating is nowhere near as consistent or precise as the black was. Creality is effectively using the older texture formula. Note how the texture near the corners is nearly identical between the two plates.
Now look at the same Bambu plate rotated 90 degrees with the same camera angle. There is almost no contrast because the texture, thanks to a Scotch-Brite pad, has been abraded nearly smooth.
Did you change your infill to gyroid, for example? The default setting rectilinear keeps hammering against the part being printed. That sounds like a typical incorrect infill setting problem.
No I have heard of that and now that you have said that I will definitely try it! I will say, this might be dumb, that I have had a ender 3 and a Prusa mk3s+ and all of these are no where near what the P2S is supposed to be when it comes to plug and play set it and forget it printing, and never ever, other than a issue like this that could only be fixed with a stick and hitting the bed of the mk3, don’t judge lol, have I had a issue like this, once I added a bl touch to the ender 3, with my other inferior printers. I would expect that this would be flipped where this issue with what seems like from my research such nitpicky answers like turn the bed up 5c. I think that this would need to be done on the other printers, And if I am crazy about this please tell me. Again thanks for all of y’all’s help and suggestions!!
I have no idea, but as I said, it’s a good plan to read the wiki and have a look around the forum.
You’ll find lots of useful tips there, like the fact that the default infill setting unfortunately tends to knock the prints over. You wouldn’t know that beforehand.
Unfortunately, if you want the much-praised Bambu quality, you still have to make a few adjustments.
The bed plate you show was scrubbed way too hard/aggressively. Hence my advice of very light pressure. It’s not about taking material off, it’s about very lightly scratching the surface. I stand by my suggestion, it has worked very well for me and my plates don’t show any appreciable wear from doing it.
Glue doesn’t help it attach to the plate, it’s for detaching later for filaments that adhere too well. Try cleaning it and then not using glue, that could work. Have fun with your new P2S!
If you have thoroughly cleaned the PEI build plate as others have suggested, then my suspcions would fall on the temperature of the build plate not being what it says it should be.
It actually does both. Glue helps hold things down as well as release easier - all depends on the circumstances.
I’ve had prints not want to stick to build plates and glue helps keep a model stuck down. This is especially true with delicate parts and build plates with lots of prints done with them.
I’ve also had prints want to stick too well on new plates where the glue makes the print release easier and protects the build plate from damage.
Doesn’t help OP apparently but at least with my printer I use glue for both ends of build plate life.
could you elaborate a little bit?
You switched to another slicer and that fixed it?
So what does that mean? The Bambu slicer has a problem? Wrong settings?
Ah, So when I switched to Orca this is what I think happened: Different Z offset. I had tried to change Z offset in Bambu Studio but i never got that perfect offset, but when I switched to Orca, If you try this get the nightly release, the offset was more aggressive but tuned. I preferer Orca anyway and so it was no problem.
I use little square foam block sanding blocks like girls might use on nails. I don’t even know what grit it is. 220 or so? I give the bed a quick scuff every few months then wipe with a cloth and windex. Never replaced build plate since psi plate first came out. First on press now on hs2. Never had to adjust anything or use glue either.
