Hi everyone! First of all, I’m new to 3D printing so probably there are many things I don’t know or haven’t tried.
I bought a P1S printer around 6 months ago. It came with the standard 4 mm nozzle and I later bought an 8 mm nozzle to print bigger objects faster. The 4 mm nozzle always worked fine and when I switched to the 8 mm it also worked fine, until yesterday. I was trying to print some Halloween related things and everything was going well at first. After some time, the filament started to not stick to the rest of the print and it quickly became a mess of “wires”. I thought it might be the filament so I opened up a new one and tested it, same problem. I then thought it might be the nozzle, went back and forth between the 4 and 8 mm and same thing kept happening until it got worse. After a few tests the first layer would not even stick to the bed and would be stuck around the nozzle, forming sort of a ball on the tip. I went around looking for answers and found some things. One guy on the forum said he had the same problem and fixed it by cleaning the bed with dish soap and also window cleaner. In addition to that, he also permorfed a factory reset and a recalibration and the problem was solved. Didn’t work for me. I then went to Reddit where I saw another guy saying he fixed his issue by changing the profile from .008mm to .012mm. I tried playing around with the profiles but also didn’t work. I then saw another post saying the solution was changing the k value in the Bambu Studio calibration but I can’t event print that straight so I have no idea of what the correct k value might be. I also talked to a friend who is a bit more versed than me in 3D printing and he said that it seemed like the nozzle tip was too high so I tried to mess around with the Z-axis and put the bed closer to the nozzle tip. To be fair, the printing was better (even though not perfect) but after the first layer the nozzle would be touching the bed and as it moved around it ripped the filament from the bed. I also tried to increase the temperature of the bed and decrease the nozzle speed but it did not work. Anyone has any idea what it might be?
To make sure I don’t forget anything, my printer is a P1S with a 4 mm (and a spare 8 mm) nozzle, it has a textured PEI plate, the filament I’m using PLA Basic from Bambu Lab and I’m printing with 55C bed temp, 220C nozzle temp and 0.20 mm standard profile, which is the exact same config and setup I used before. I’m also not using any glue as I don’t have any. Additionally, I noticed the printer is doing something weird that I’m 99% sure it did not do before. Basically the nozzle heats up to clean any leftover filament inside, then cools down a bit and then heats up again to start printing. I don’t remember it cooling down and while it is cooling down it performs a strange routine in the back of the plate that I’m almost sure it didn’t do before. Here is my print.
If anyone has any idea what it might be, please let me know! Thanks!
This is classic of either a contaminated build plate or more likely, the bed temp is too low. You will want to manually check the bed temp with a thermometer to verify. Or you can do trial and error and just change it to 100c and do it by touch. Be careful as 100c is the same temp as boiling water and will cause a burn.
Clean your plate under scalding hot water using either Dawn Dishwashing detergent(US) or Fair Liquid as it’s known in the EU and UK.
Flip the plate, try washing with just soap and water, skip the windex.
When changing nozzles or beds be sure to run the bed level routine.
Did you change the nozzle in Studio Device Settings to .6?
Did you select the correct profile for the nozzle?
In the future, start small and go from there. Bed adheison loss suddenly isn’t usually in need of recalibration unless you moved the printer. Not trying to be mean, but you went down a rabbit hole and changed enought to make the actual reason hard to figure out.
Wash the bed, forget the windex, start with the correct nozzle profile and change the nozzle type in Studio/device setting/printer parts. Run a calibration cube (right click on empty bed and choose primitive, cube, make it 20mm) report back
I changed it to .4 or .8 as i switched nozzles, I don’t have a .6 nozzle.
I switched back to the 0.20mm standard profile after messing with that setting.
Hello again. I tried to merge you solutions into one and so I cleaned my plate with dish soap and a sponge and then printed several cubes at different bed temps (55, 60, 65 and 75). I also tried increasing the nozzle temp to 240 and while all of that helped with the dirst layer, all subsequent layers had the same problem. So now the firsl layer is good, the other layers are the problem. While printing the cube I observed the first layer was printing slowly and then the printer started going crazy. I check Bambu Studio, the first layer speed is set to 50, while outer layer is set to 200 and inner layer to 300. The travelling speed is at 500. Can that be the issue? Is that too high for speed?
For me it made all the difference, just tried it a few hours ago. The sand paper and steel wool suggestions sound promising as well if you don’t want to deal with chemicals
Some have reported acetone restoring adhesion but it is very flammable and the fumes tend to gather in low places. Always be careful when using acetone. It pulls oils out of your skin and leaves hands dry and prone to cracking if too much exposure. Plus, acetone can help carry other chemicals across the skin barrier into the body. And it can melt/mar some plastics, finishes, and surfaces. It’s a strong solvent with hazards that may not be obvious.
Also, people tend to pour it down the drain at times and that’s hard on plastic pipes and fumes can collect in piping. Always flush drains with lots of water but there may also be laws about how excess is disposed of.
Not saying not to use it. Just advising being careful handling it.
If I had a dollar for every time someone tried to remedy a situation by going into the settings before doing the basics…
Don’t overthink this. You’re on the right track but going into the speed settings is the last place on the road to troubleshooting. Here is a “suggested” order to verify your troubleshooting.
Have you tried another filament?
Does this happen on both surfaces of the build plate?
Did you verify the build plate temperature with a thermometer? This link is to a class of thermometers on Amazon. It is something that is a good idea to have in one’s tool kit. Amazon.com : ir thermometers Buy on price, underneath the plastic are identical electronics, don’t overpay.
Did you check the nozzle for clumped-on leftover filament? One would have to remove the silicone sock for this inspection.
Ok guys turns out, I’M A F***ING MORON! I bought a filament recharge ages ago and yesterday I was trying to print some stuff when the filament I was using ran out, so I replaced it with the recharge. The thing is, the one I was using was PLA and I completely forgot the one I bought was PETG, so I was trying to print using PETG with the settings for PLA. There’s one thing I’ll never forget to check again…
And thanks for all the help!
Those little filament type stickers supplied with refills can save the day! I’ve got a white PETG HF spool that’s out of my AMS and if it weren’t for that sticker, I’d have tried to print PLA with it by now.
But refills should have RFID tags and it should identify as PETG and should either warn or use PETG settings?
No big deal and you learned a lesson. As people accumulate more different filament types, this becomes more of a possibility. Some have their storage for different filaments separated and labeled to try to help keep them straight. I’m starting to think I could go for that too.
Oh, just thought of this - no checking RFID if you swap a spool in during a print. Maybe that’s how it got through?
I’m not certain but I think it needs to see the change to read the RFID tag. Once a spool is in, it goes with what it has. Not sure your printer but the filament display on the printer should say what it thinks is in each slot. If it says PLA when the spool is PETG, try changing the spool while the printer is idle but put the same one back in and see if it reads PLA.
Unfortunately we can’t rule out incorrect RFID tags from the factory. Pretty sure it’s been reported here.
