65° for bed and 225° for nozzle is Kind of high for regular PLA. I never Go up higher than 60° on bed and 200° for PLA.
Ok, next one I’ll try and see if I get better results
Update: ok so the print turned out good, doing another one with different PLA at 55 bed and 215 nozzle. so far so good
update: seems to be working fine now. Thanks
This feels like good advice for less sophisticated printers… The P1P doesn’t require (or even offer) manual bed tramming. Hairspray is questionable for a textured PEI surface too.
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This is good advice.
A bottle of this glue came with my P1P, likely came with OP’s too. By all appearances it’s identical to Magigoo (a brand name of liquid 3D printer adhesion material that I’ve been happily using for years).
While the dawn soap approach OP started with is not a bad idea, it’s almost certainly unnecessary. It also adds risk (e.g. OP might not rinse it fully off, or might scrub so hard with it to damage the PEI surface). Isopropyl alcohol wiped across the surface gently with a lint-free cloth (I use an eyeglass cleaner myself) is likely all they need. Liquid glue for extreme cases where a good surface alone isn’t enough.
For my textured glassbed on my Anycubic it works 
P.S.: And lasts longer than this puppy little glue stick from Bambu …
ah ok, you’re using an Anycubic printer. You might not be aware of these points:
- Correct height adjustment: OP stated they are using a Bambu lab P1P. The P1P auto calibrates z-offset at the start of every print, and does not have a manual control option for this. The ‘paper’ trick doesn’t apply to this printer at all.
- Hairspray: this may work well for your glass bed, but OP stated they are using the P1P’s textured PEI sheet. Hairspray is not a common treatment on textured PEI sheets.
- Bed temp: OP stated they are running the bed at 65C which is an appropriate setting already.
- Resorting to sticky tape: The old ‘painters tape’ approach helped in the days when we had lower quality build plates, but textured PEI is a significant improvement over tape. Covering that PEI with tape will not help unless the PEI is dirty, in which case washing it as OP stated they already tried is the proper solution.
- Printing at slower speed: this is perfectly reasonable advice but applies more to bed slingers than corexy printers. bedslingers (like those from anycubic) struggle to keep the moving print bed stable at high speeds, resulting in the toolhead crashing into the print and causing issues. corexy printers move the bed vertically and at any print speed the bed moves far less than a bedslinger style printer at its slowest speeds. Slowing the print might help in corner cases, but if it does a more satisfying option will likely be to increase the z-hop by a small amount.
- Regarding hairspray versus liquid glue: the liquid glue from Bambu lab is similar to (if not just a white-boxed version of) Magigoo. While the instructions suggest applying a thin layer and rinsing off between each print, in reality you can leave the layer in place. A single bottle of magigoo at ~$20USD was sufficient for me (on my old printer) for well over 30 spools of filament consumed. The glue in the bottle dried up before i fully used it, and I happily spent another $20 for my second bottle just before my old printer died. After that I got a P1P and haven’t used the glue nearly as much. I highly recommend the liquid glue, especially if you are printing on a heated glass build plate. it’s absolutely wonderful and way more satisfying than the hairspray ever was for me. It’s mostly not needed once you have a PEI sheet, but glass has its advantages too, so PEI isn’t always satisfying on its own.
you never go above 200C for PLA? I’ve been printing with old stock MakerGeeks filament for years, printing PLA at the vendor recommended 235C. Every Bambu lab authored filament profile I have used is set to at least 220C (including their own BBL Basic PLA).
I would worry that a lower temp might not support the volumetric flow rates required by the unmodified print settings.