I’m trying to figure out which one of these is the right one. They all look terrible to me… 5 looks a bit better than 0, but the edges in both look very bad, and this is something I have seen in my models too.
This is Bambu Lab PLA Matte (Sakura Pink), dried, on A1. The flow dynamics factor I calibrated to be 0.025.
Don’t focus on the edge, the infill overlap is going to create some minor over-extrusion on the edge when flow is dialed in perfectly, at the right angle it looks nasty like it can’t be right but it’s a tiny amount of filament.
Some people just close their eyes and brush fingernail across the center and judge that way.
If it’s Bambu PLA then 0 is the likely choice imo, they have PLA dialed in on these machines, again, imo.
Only dried, no calibration, matte pink:
Thanks. If judging by the center, I went with 10 as that is the flattest one with no gaps. I’m doing the second step of the calibration now.
I’m not very happy with the Matte PLA so far - the white has not been very good. The regular PLA (I’m using Sunlu PLA+) was excellent though. I need to compare the filament presets to see if there’s something also about the speed…
Sunlu PLA+ needed calibrating for me also as standard PLA flow was out.
10 was the best choice out of them, Id also do the 2nd flow test for a more precise flow. Sunlu is good but it does need calibrating.
I did a Volumetric flow check also and I can run white Sunlu PLA+ at 22mm/s and black 21mm/s
Well, the +8 (after the second calibration) was terrible, filament oozing all around the place. I am very frustrated with this filament so far… I’ve had the printer only a couple of weeks and everything else so far has printed flawlessly.
I tried lowering the nozzle temperature to 215 from 220 and that did help a bit with the stringing that I was seeing…
i would not manually calibrate since it’s bambu filament. letting the printer auto-calibrate before each print is enough.
choose a layer height half the nozzle width, make sure all settings - printer, filament, and process - are completely default (no orange reset arrows), and print something simple like a benchy. this makes it easy to see if it’s really the filament that’s a problem or just a cascade of custom settings that stray too far from the sweet-spot.
A benchy isn’t a half bad idea. I will give it a try. I do see consistent under extrusion and sometimes layers that will not stick to the one underneath.
I also use these , usually at 50%, there’s a lot of features in it : Voron Design Cube V7 (2.4R2) by DeclanD_ | Download free STL model | Printables.com
Do 10
Then do pass two and find the best of that
It’s best to choose the slightly over extruded flow rate pass 1 then under extruded because pass two will account for it
