That I don’t know, I don’t even know where the fan speed is lol
its in your filament profile, read what i wrote above please
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Ah okay found it. Seems mine runs the whole time for petg. In regards to your stars that is really interesting. So with PLA and PETG would you run fans at 100%? Do you have a screen shot of your settings?
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Set all to 100 and save this profile as fit for tolerances.
You said you used the 0.28mm layer height (extra draft),
This is one of the reasons your circles have obvious steps.
As already noted, this is part of FDM, physics basically.
You have asked for a thick layer height and expected a part requiring as thin a layer height as possible.
Adaptive layer height has been mentioned, you should consider this, but, your layer height will need to be lowered to really benefit.
It should be noted, you chose a profile called draft and are complaining it isn’t perfect quality.
The clue is in the name.
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What about the cooling on the first 3 layers? And what about the Aux cooling fan? Is there one?
I set it like that as i want the print to stick to the plate . I print mostly in PLA. Usually is just for the first layer but as i worked with it so far, i personally didnt have any issues with this setting. I borrowed it from PETG profile which has that by default
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Based on the image in your video, I wouldn’t even try to print that as one piece.
Do it as two parts, the base and the upright with the big hole. Put a slot in the base to hold the upright; make that slot’s width the thickness of the upright. Don’t rely on a friction fit to hold the upright in place. Instead, either glue the parts together, or screw them together.
For the latter, put clearance holes in the underside of the base and tap holes in the upright. It’s trivially easy to do this in Fusion. Choose a “plastic thread-cutting” screw from the McMaster-Carr catalog, put it in the model and verify fit.
If the head needs to be countersunk then realize the hole for that on the base underside won’t look great, but the screws will do a good job of hiding that.
I am not complaining - I did not state the machine, software or material is at fault because I know it’s my current lack of knowledge to 3d printing hence why I am seeking knowledge. I’m illustrating my result. I’m new to 3d printing, not engineering and still learning to navigate the software. I have been reading and watching videos and I understand there is a lot to learn. I appreciate the people here including you that haven taken time to respond.
“You have asked for a thick layer height and expected a part requiring as thin a layer height as possible.”
After I have been digging into the profiles more I see what is changing.
“Adaptive layer height has been mentioned, you should consider this, but, your layer height will need to be lowered to really benefit”
Is there a recommended layer height for the PETG HF? I care more about strength than aesthetics. How does the default .16 Optimal vs the .20 strength profile compare in your opinion?
Thank you
Great tips thank you.
I’m going to keep it to piece. No reason why I shouldn’t be able to but I assume the recommendation is to keep the parts printed on the flat?
As for fusion yeah I know how to add tap holes etc. I also have a bunch of heat inserts that could be used. My thinking is screwing the parts together after printing on the flat for the larger piece would not have enough bite if the infill is a pattern. So I think to adjust the wall thickness would need to be increased based on the length of the screw going into the piece.
There is not, the only recommended settings come based on your printer’s capabilities. As for material, temp and speed are the criteria for each.
You could print PETG with a 0.2 nozzle as well as a 0.4 or 0.8. but the settings of speed and temp need to match.
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Didn’t say you were.
This news is new as I read your initial comments related to the aesthetics that were not to your liking and responded accordingly.
In order to improve the look and reduce the steps, you need to go thinner.
Firstly, 0.2mm is the default, less than that increases the quality potential.
Recommendations are subjective and without more about what you wish to achieve, my answer will be based on a lack of information.
If you are after strength, you need to increase the wall count, the top and bottom layers, the amount if infill and the type of infill.
How much they need to increase is usually determined by what the model will be used for. Is it supporting weight, will it be wall or surface mounted?
You should explore pro types and see which help you.
I could say, 4 surfaces, 6 walls, 40% gyroid infill, but, that could be over or under kill.
If the cutout is holding weight and the right angle flat surface will be wall mounted, then I would add chamfers to the points the two meet, ideally a concave curved join or at least a 45° angle rather than the current 90° transition.
You should always try to avoid a sharp transition between parts as they are the weak points that are failure inducing.
If aesthetics are you focus, reduce the layer height to 0.16 or 0.12, if it is strength increase the elements noted above and experiment until they sufficiently hold the weight you need.
Wasting filament by printing a solid model can also reduce the strength p, infill, particularly those like gyroid can increase the strength more than solid infill.
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One thing about lots of walls and high infill is besides using a lot of plastic (which may be appropriate), it will help prints try to curl and lift from contraction stresses.
I haven’t used them so may be sending you on a wild goose chase, but if you need strength in an area, instead of making the whole print strong, I believe you can use modifiers in the print setup in Studio to increase strength in localized regions defined by the primitive shapes available in Studio.
If that’s not right to you guys that are more familiar, please correct and I’ll delete the part about modifiers.
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My person rule regarding 3D printing is “no serious overhangs.” The big hole in your design isn’t terrible, in that respect. It would be much worse if it was a square! Just think what the print head has to do to lay down the first layer of a bridge over air. But, if there is an opportunity for the printer to do big flat pieces that lie down on the bed instead of tall skinny pieces, all the better.
It’s worth looking at what the slicer does around a hole inside a piece. In my experience, It considers the hole to be no different from walls, so the usual rules it used to make walls apply. That is, the sparse infill starts some distance from the hole. This is the case whether you’re designing for a tapped hole or something that accepts the inserts. And you can certainly increase the wall thickness to allow for more plastic into which the screw can bite.
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Okay, it was said in your intial correspondence.
But in any event, I appreciate the feedback you gave.
I didn’t mean complaining as in annoyed, I meant complaining as in suffering, two different things.
You stated you were experiencing a result of a choice you made where the name appeared to contradict your needs.
Hi everyone, so I tried doing thicker walls, added a fillets to the model, fans @ 100%, smoothed (adapted) and ended up with almost the same result and trying to understand why. I have attached the configs and model if anyone wants to take a closer looker.
Bracket G Step.3mf (1.3 MB)
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/yon8udso7l162uuebo4kl/Printer-config-bundle.zip?rlkey=cbmo24ylfynn690vt6hxodu1d&dl=0
I suffer daily lol, engineer… Just teasing, no worries
Did you spot this warning about your build-plate and PETG-HF conflict?
Your said you are using the golf textured plate in the intro, yet the file you supplied is configured for a smooth plate.
Please detail in short bullet points, what you expect to get and what is going wrong.
For example
- The screw holes are/are not the expected size
- The top of the screw holes do not appear neat
- Something else
There have been a lot of updates and a lot of tests, I wish to see which ones are still relevant.
I didn’t get that warning. Im using the textured gold plate.