well… at the end i bought 2 0.4 Tungsten high flow hothead… some money… but worth the speed… or not ?
Today they arrived, i installed them made the printer read the Heads and the H2D found them… all perfect but… well… NO time saved…
I syncronized Bambu Studio and it’s all fine… High Flow heads… i told the slicer to use the high flow settings for the filaments and still no saving… 3D9 hours before… 3D9 hours after it… and scaring… faster on the X1C with standard Hothead…
where do I wrong it ?.. High flow heads → in H2D and in Bambu Studio… High Flow - Direct Drive in the filament settings (40-48 mm3/s setting…)
but still nothing happened… the slicer still telling me the same stupid timing for the print … i can do the sport speed to cut the time but i would like to have something saved from the new heads but i cant understand where my mistake is.
Tungsten nozzles are not faster than standard HF nozzles; they simply last longer. I just want to clarify this so you do not assume they provide higher print speeds.
You should technically be able to print faster because tungsten has better heat conductivity than steel by about 2x. But you may need to run the calibration prints to find what works and not rely on default parameters.
You may have to manually go into the filament profile and set the hf volumetric flow rate, you will for certain on generic materials. This is the first thing to check.
Bambu Lab didn’t exactly go wild with the regular HF nozzles either – I’m pretty sure they’re terrified of clogs that customers might try to claim under warranty. Joke’s on us though: nozzles have no warranty because they’re “consumables”. I didn’t even get the Eddy sensors replaced under warranty, despite the fact they were murdered by those beautifully super-glued connectors.
They sent me the TH board but not the Eddy sensors, which is some Olympic-level warranty gymnastics, considering both were victims of the same glue crime.
And a slightly off-topic side note: when I stripped my H2D, I found a whole bunch of screws that were Loctited like someone was assembling a fighter jet. Yes, there are plenty of vibrations in a 3D printer, but I don’t even use that much Loctite inside an aircraft cockpit – only on screws that might literally kill me if they decide to go on vacation…
i repaired an AMS2 Pro this summer… removing some screw on the motor feeder after the 4 pipes joint was epic… i thought i was breaking the screw and finally i could remove it … but i really thought i was going to break something
All my original AMS units have over-torqued screws, and one was so bad it actually cracked the PCB – and it’s still somehow working. For that price, though, they really should arrive flawless.
It’s honestly a good thing they’re not building aircraft. In aviation, every single screw and nut has a specified torque limit; with this “gorilla-tight” assembly style, they wouldn’t make it past the first QA check. It’s even so obsessive that in recreational aviation (and probably commercial as well), everything has to be torque-checked again after a certain number of hours, just to confirm nothing is too tight and nothing is too loose.
I have 4 AMS2 Pro, 4 AMS HT and 2 original AMS units. I haven’t needed to dismantle the AMS2 or HT yet, apart from a small tweak to make the HT turn the spools more smoothly so I can print TPU/PEBA through the PTFE path via the bypass.
after turning upside down the AMS2 Pro we discovered was the MB … atm all 4 working fine and thinking about to buy some more… they arend cheap … but they do the work and i dont need to babysitting the printers
I mean generally you’re not limited by the volumetric flow rate, so of course you don’t see speed boost.
The default settings are not utilizing 40mm^3/s because the default nozzle is a 24mm^3/s nozzle? So of course the default settings would optimize for that slower nozzle. If you want higher VFR to be used you have to make your own settings, otherwise only very large prints with long continuous extrusion would see a speed improvement from higher VFR.
The benefit of a High Flow nozzle is usually more prominent on 0.6mm nozzles. For 0.4mm, the benefit of high flow mainly comes from part strength. You would get much higher part strength compared to normal nozzle when printing fast.
For 0.4mm nozzle:
0.42mm * 0.2mm * 300mm/s = 25.2mm^3/s
So it means only lines that can go over 300mm/s, or go over 0.42mm line width, would benefit from your HF nozzle.
For 0.6mm nozzle:
0.62mm * 0.3mm * 300mm/s = 55.8mm^3/s, which is even higher than what the HF nozzle can provide. So for 0.6mm the speed boost would be pretty impressive.
tnx, so i have only some nice coloured nozzle that i will use only when i’m in hurry… well… good to know and tnx for the math… i should have done it before… as i usually print a 0.12-0.16 so i can use them only at high speed …
no i dont just atm i’m printing stuff for home so nothing that will need more strength… just i loved to get some more speed w/o have to change all settings (that I wont…)
I will change all the hothead with the HF in the future to reduce troubles and have the same quality on all the printers (this was just a test due to the cost of the tungsten heads) and i want to check with CF filaments if i get also a better quality (once X-Mas is gone).
I was fighting this same issue, until I learned that there are 2 max flow rates in the filament profile; the standard nozzle rate and the high flow rate, selected with a drop down list at the top of the filament profile dialog.
I wouldn’t recommend replacing all the nozzles on your HF unless absolutely necessary. This is because they have a more complex internal shape. And if they become clogged, the chances of successfully clearing them are significantly lower. Ultimately, you’ll have to simply throw them out and replace them with new ones, which is quite expensive.
You may be right… in this 2 days i keep getting the alert of nozzle clogged but then it restart the job w/o problems… and at standard speed… not making them running… seems they have some minor issue also on common use … and yep… they are damn expensive…
Do not forget about such an important parameter as the printing time of the layer. If a model is printed with small layers, then it doesn’t matter what the speed in the settings or the volume flow will be, everything will come down to slowing down to comply with the printing time of the layer.
The main problem is that the flow is divided into three chambers in the middle. While you can clean a regular nozzle with a thin wire or by removing unheated nylon, I don’t understand how to clean this one. Burning it out is also impossible, as it’s hardened steel. Burning it out will temper it, making it less resistant to composites.
… but they do the work and i dont need to babysitting the printers 